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New Patio Door and "build up" of sill.

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Subject Author Date
New Patio Door and "build up" of sill. John Gilmer 01-21-2007
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Posted by John Gilmer on January 21, 2007, 6:58 pm


We want to replace the slider patio door on a rental. We KNOW the old one
was at least 20 years old and it likely is "original" (35 year old). It's
done its job.

BUT in the original installation the basement was about 1 1/2" above the
level of the patio. The "step down" was at the inside of the rough opening
which meant that the track was below the basement floor.

A home remodeling independent contractor we have engaged on a "time and
materials" basis says "that ain't right." He believes the base of the new
door should be at the basement level. I'm inclined to agree with him.
It's not much of a problem to get the extra room on top if the base is made
1 1/2" or slightly more higher.

The question is: what's the best way of raising this level. Is screwing
some pressure treated wood to the concrete "gud enuf"? Should we create a
dam and place come concrete patch material? I would especially like to
here from one who has faced a similar problem.

While on the subject: someone have strong views on patio doors: which
style is best (slider, French, ??). We have plenty of other work to do on
the place so we aren't in much of a hurry so we want to think thing through.




Posted by on January 21, 2007, 7:36 pm


As long as you flash everything to prevent water ingress either method
is suitable. Myself I prefer the wood.
John Gilmer wrote:
> We want to replace the slider patio door on a rental. We KNOW the old one
> was at least 20 years old and it likely is "original" (35 year old). It's
> done its job.
>
> BUT in the original installation the basement was about 1 1/2" above the
> level of the patio. The "step down" was at the inside of the rough opening
> which meant that the track was below the basement floor.
>
> A home remodeling independent contractor we have engaged on a "time and
> materials" basis says "that ain't right." He believes the base of the new
> door should be at the basement level. I'm inclined to agree with him.
> It's not much of a problem to get the extra room on top if the base is made
> 1 1/2" or slightly more higher.
>
> The question is: what's the best way of raising this level. Is screwing
> some pressure treated wood to the concrete "gud enuf"? Should we create a
> dam and place come concrete patch material? I would especially like to
> here from one who has faced a similar problem.
>
> While on the subject: someone have strong views on patio doors: which
> style is best (slider, French, ??). We have plenty of other work to do on
> the place so we aren't in much of a hurry so we want to think thing through.


Posted by on January 21, 2007, 8:21 pm



> As long as you flash everything to prevent water ingress either method
> is suitable. Myself I prefer the wood.
> John Gilmer wrote:
(snip)
>>
>> While on the subject: someone have strong views on patio doors: which
>> style is best (slider, French, ??). We have plenty of other work to do
>> on
>> the place so we aren't in much of a hurry so we want to think thing
>> through.
>
Who pays the heat for the rental, you or the tenant? And are the usual run
of tenants in your area hard on the fittings? A <properly installed>
steel-clad French door will be more weather-tight, and be harder for the
tenant to screw up, since it basically just a double exterior door with a
big window in it. I like the view of a slider better, but even quality
brands are on the drafty side, and a maintenance PITA. If I keep this place
long enough to replace the sliders, it'll be with one or two fixed panels,
and single opening French door, probably a 3'0'', so it is still useful for
getting furniture in and out of. Only downsides to French door setup is that
you have to have room for the door swing inside, and you can't use them as
screen doors for ventilation w/o some really kludgy setups.

aem sends...



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