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Posted by Walleyefreak on October 19, 2009, 8:11 pm
I brought the height of my closet down from 96"to 80" (easier to purchase
doors). In doing so I had to place new drywall against an existing painted
and fished wall. Do I tape the joint between the new drywall and existing
wall and if so will the tape show through mud and paint on the existing
wall.
What do i need to do tp prep the existing surfice, should I have bevelled
the old existing wall?
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Walleyefreak
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Posted by Colbyt on October 19, 2009, 10:13 pm
show/hide quoted text
>I brought the height of my closet down from 96"to 80" (easier to purchase
> doors). In doing so I had to place new drywall against an existing painted
> and fished wall. Do I tape the joint between the new drywall and existing
> wall and if so will the tape show through mud and paint on the existing
> wall.
> What do i need to do tp prep the existing surfice, should I have bevelled
> the old existing wall?
> -------------------------------------
> Walleyefreak
Not if you properly finish the wall with a wide feathered edge. I have
joined old to new many times. It just takes a little more skill and effort.
Colbyt
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Posted by aemeijers on October 19, 2009, 11:24 pm
Colbyt wrote:
show/hide quoted text
>> I brought the height of my closet down from 96"to 80" (easier to purchase
>> doors). In doing so I had to place new drywall against an existing painted
>> and fished wall. Do I tape the joint between the new drywall and existing
>> wall and if so will the tape show through mud and paint on the existing
>> wall.
>> What do i need to do tp prep the existing surfice, should I have bevelled
>> the old existing wall?
>> -------------------------------------
>> Walleyefreak
>
> Not if you properly finish the wall with a wide feathered edge. I have
> joined old to new many times. It just takes a little more skill and effort.
>
> Colbyt
>
>
I woulda faked the top of the opening with a sheet of cabinet-grade
plywood finished the same color as the new bi-folds or sliders.
Bi-folds, I suspect. When I was house-shopping, I saw a lot of
ceiling-height closets like that in late 50s to mid 60s houses. I don't
know if it was to save building a header, or so they could tell the
SWMBOs how easy it would be to get to the top shelves, which is always a
pain with normal closets. I imagine getting exact replacements today
would indeed be a PITA.
But since it is too late for that, what Colbyt said. Biggest problem
will be that inside corner wanting to crack with weather changes.
aem sends...
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Posted by Joe on October 20, 2009, 10:28 pm
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>snip<
> But since it is too late for that, what Colbyt said. Biggest problem
> will be that inside corner wanting to crack with weather changes.
Maybe finish it with a tidy cove molding nailed just to one side.
Joe
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Posted by hr(bob) hofmann@att.net on October 20, 2009, 11:07 pm
show/hide quoted text
> >snip<
> > But since it is too late for that, what Colbyt said. Biggest problem
> > will be that inside corner wanting to crack with weather changes.
> Maybe finish it with a tidy cove molding nailed just to one side.
> Joe
Why would dropping the ceiling cause you to have to buy a new door??
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> doors). In doing so I had to place new drywall against an existing painted
> and fished wall. Do I tape the joint between the new drywall and existing
> wall and if so will the tape show through mud and paint on the existing
> wall.
> What do i need to do tp prep the existing surfice, should I have bevelled
> the old existing wall?
> -------------------------------------
> Walleyefreak