If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by RichK on May 15, 2006, 2:13 pm
Hi All,
I've replaced several valves (standard shutoff) over the years, the ones you
turn several times, to open/close. There may be proper name for them, but I
do not know.
It seems to be hit/miss proposition for me. Some of them leak at the shaft,
after installing.
I suspect the reason is that the rubber gasket gets cooked during the
heating process. Many valves have a rubber parts in two places, one where
they close the flow and another around the shaft.
How do you guys manage to get the valve installed without overheating the
rubber parts inside? Any tricks?
Regards,
RichK
|
|
Posted by PDQ on May 15, 2006, 2:11 pm
Remove the stem and handle before you apply the heat and replace them =
after the faucet cools down.
--=20
PDQ
--
| Hi All,
|=20
| I've replaced several valves (standard shutoff) over the years, the =
ones you
| turn several times, to open/close. There may be proper name for them, =
but I
| do not know.
|=20
| It seems to be hit/miss proposition for me. Some of them leak at the =
shaft,
| after installing.
|=20
| I suspect the reason is that the rubber gasket gets cooked during the
| heating process. Many valves have a rubber parts in two places, one =
where
| they close the flow and another around the shaft.
|=20
| How do you guys manage to get the valve installed without overheating =
the
| rubber parts inside? Any tricks?
|=20
| Regards,
|=20
| RichK
|=20
|
|
|
Posted by on May 15, 2006, 2:21 pm
RichK wrote:
> How do you guys manage to get the valve installed without overheating the
> rubber parts inside? Any tricks?
>
> Regards,
>
> RichK
What works for me:
1. Disassemble valve as possible first.
2. Heat area to be sweated as intensely and for as little time as
possible.
Usual picky stuff about cleaning, fluxing, etc.
YMWV,
J
|
|
Posted by hallerb@aol.com on May 15, 2006, 2:25 pm
remove the handle stem then sweat. then reinstall after its cool, this
mahes it easier to get it hot enough, so bbetter seal.
be certain to clean all parts, flux all parts. then heat the part not
the solder. heating the valve body rather than the pipe helps suck the
soder into the joint
|
|
Posted by E on May 15, 2006, 4:21 pm
> Hi All,
>
> I've replaced several valves (standard shutoff) over the years, the ones
> you
> turn several times, to open/close. There may be proper name for them,
They are called gate valves. Like the other said - remove the stem before
applying heat
|
Page 1 of 5 1 2 3 > last >>
| Similar Threads | Posted | | How do I shutoff or block sewer line while replacing the shutoff valve? | November 22, 2007, 4:25 pm |
| pool shutoff valve replacement | June 22, 2005, 2:28 pm |
| Automatic water shutoff valve? | July 15, 2006, 11:35 am |
| Gas Shutoff Valve Location - In Wall Cavity? | October 17, 2005, 9:20 am |
| The nut for Main Water shutoff (Ball valve) got wet when turning | March 30, 2007, 10:04 pm |
| Old Gas Lamp, Saddle Valve Connection and No Shutoff for Line | July 10, 2007, 1:31 pm |
| Valve,butterfly valve,ball valve,check valve,globe valve | April 14, 2006, 4:23 am |
| Brass Ball Valve,Gas Valve,Needle Valve,Angle Valve Sale on good price | November 27, 2006, 12:48 pm |
| toilet leak (sweat) | August 6, 2007, 12:02 pm |
| Good and bad copper sweat welds question | August 8, 2005, 6:41 am |
|
|