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Notching Slab For Patio Door -- How?

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Notching Slab For Patio Door -- How? jim evans 08-06-2005
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Posted by jim evans on August 6, 2005, 3:41 pm



>If you look at the top figure in my sketch you will see there's about
>a 3/8" -1/2" gap between the slab and the deck.

I just measured it -- the gap is a quarter inch

jim


Posted by Rich on August 6, 2005, 4:06 pm



> wrote:
>
>>I don't think you want a notch at all, unless it is "open", with no dam on
>>the deck side of the slot.. That would collect water, and corrode the door
>>frame, as well as continue to leak.
>
> If you look at the top figure in my sketch you will see there's about
> a small (3/8" -1/2") gap between the slab and the deck.
>
>>Suggest you have more than one patio door installer by, with good
>>local recommendations, to give you an estimate, and ask what they think
>>is
>>wrong with the install, and what they propose to do.
>
> I had a professional installer tell me the door track should sit in a
> recess in the slab. This recess should be from 1" to 1 1/4" lower
> than the slab. This is what prevents the water intrusion. They
> cannot simply sit on the same grade as the slab or they will always do
> what mine is doing.
>
> That's almost a direct quote.
>
> jim

Well he's wrong every door that I have had in my houses has sat on the same
level as the floor it leads to. If this was a traditional door how would it
open? It would so the guy is wrong in that statement. I have installed
sliding doors and what needs to be done is a very good caulk job between the
bottom of the sill and the slab/underlayment to prevent water intrusion this
caulk as I did it ran up and in the joint between the slab/underlayment and
the jack studs (the ones on either side of the door holding the header) so
it wouldn't ruin them over time.

Like someone else posted are you sure the weep hole are pointing in the
correct direction, there should be small slots on the exterior of the door
every so often to get rid of water? All that might need to be done is when
you take the door out that your replacing look at the junction between the
bottom of the sill and the slab. Make sure the door was installed correctly
to begin with. If it wasn't repair the other ones or if its a new house go
after the builder to repair them.

Good luck, Rich





Posted by on August 6, 2005, 2:44 pm


And look at pan flashing below the door sill.
It is formed sort of like a dust pan - sides and back turned up so
water doesn't get into walls or room, but weeps out and down through
that 1/4 inch crack between wall and deck.
TB



Posted by jim evans on August 6, 2005, 4:43 pm



>If this was a traditional door how would it
>open? It would so the guy is wrong in that statement.

The doors I'm talking about are sliding patio doors.

>Like someone else posted are you sure the weep hole are pointing in the
>correct direction, there should be small slots on the exterior of the door
>every so often to get rid of water?

There were no weep holes in the track of these doors. Water would
pool in the track until it ran over one of the vertical rail-like
track pieces. I drilled holes in the track to let the water run out
but it did not corrected the carpet wetting problem.

jim


Posted by Norminn on August 6, 2005, 11:21 pm




jim evans wrote:
>
>
>>If this was a traditional door how would it
>>open? It would so the guy is wrong in that statement.
>
>
> The doors I'm talking about are sliding patio doors.
>
>
>>Like someone else posted are you sure the weep hole are pointing in the
>>correct direction, there should be small slots on the exterior of the door
>>every so often to get rid of water?
>
>
> There were no weep holes in the track of these doors. Water would
> pool in the track until it ran over one of the vertical rail-like
> track pieces. I drilled holes in the track to let the water run out
> but it did not corrected the carpet wetting problem.
>
> jim

It's very hard to visualize your situation - wonder if the doors just
ride too high on the little wheels? Don't know if that is possible.
Our track is on a curb outside, which is level with the rest of the slab
inside. No weepholes on outside of track, only little space at each end
which allows water to drain. The door sits down astride the rail, so
even with water blowing against it water will not come in. Sounds like
maybe just some caulk would have solved your problem. Doors couldn't be
upside-down, could they - with weep holes or whatever at the top???????



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