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Posted by Al Bundy on August 8, 2006, 11:17 pm
>
>>
>> Eigenvector wrote:
>>> Let's say you're painting over basically raw drywall. If you're
>>> using a quality paint, should you still use 2 coats of primer and 2
>>> coats of paint?
>>
>> if you are using quality paint and you know what you are doing, one
>> coat of each is enough. most people don't put enough paint on their
>> roller. they load a roller and then try to paint a whole room. i
>> fully load a 3/8 nap roller, paint one stripe the width of your
>> roller. reload roller. if your roller slides without rolling, then
>> you have a bit too much paint.
>>
>
> I'm using some borrowed equipment, so I can't complain too much. But
> I was working it based on some advice I was given, work a 3x3 section
> then load back up and repeat until she's done. That seemed to do a
> good job for me, but yeah my roller was getting too heavily loaded
> initially. Painting must be a learned art - like everything else I
> guess.
>
> What about removing paint when you make mistakes. For instance I made
> the huge error of relying on the edging tool and not masking off the
> edges and corners when painting the ceiling. Now I have a few
> blotches where the roller bumped the wall. Paint scraper/drywall
> knife to remove - or just put the primer over it when I paint the
> walls.
>
> This is like my test room, so I'm not overly concerned about
> perfection (actually I'm never really concerned about perfection).
>
>
> basically raw drywall
Basically raw ???? Hmmmm...
If it's really good paint & primer, one of each. If it's mid grade, one
primer and 2 coats. Although the first coat always looks good, that 2nd
coat just makes it right.
What can really help using only one coat of paint is to have them tint
the primer the color of the final paint color. Actually, a little
lighter is better so you can see the final paint coverage better as you
are painting. Places usually have it so you give them the color and
there is a setting they can use to tint it 3/4 of the color.
> What about removing paint when you make mistakes.
Latex (hopefully) should be wiped with a damp cloth as soon as you
realize it. If the paint dries for like a day, that damp cloth with warm
water may take it off. It takes a while for paint to cure.
For subborn or old paint you can try Oops! paint remover
http://www.homaxproducts.com/products/cleanersremovers/index.html
I've used zylene to remove dried paint. Works great but that can damage
what the paint is on.
> ... made the huge error of relying on the edging tool and not masking
> off ...
Learn to paint freehand. Use a cheap or midgrade brush and you never
will paint freehand. Get yourself a Purdy or Wooster 2" angled brush for
latex paint. They have a plain wooden handle. Not a painted one. All of
those are important - brand, angled and latex. You will be amazed at the
control you have. It will cost you $10-12. Worth 2x that.
Clean the brush when done or when paint starts to dry (cake) on the
upper part. Take it out in the yard and hit it with a hose in the
direction of ferrell to tip - never into the end of the bristles. Take
inside and wash with warm soapy water. Take outside and shake/whip it to
get the majority of water out. Wrap in newspaper mainting it's original
shape (don't squish the sides in by wrapping tightly. When dry, put it
back in it's package to maintain shape. Never soak the brush in a
container of water.
If you are cleaning it only because the paint is starting to dry on it
and need to continue painting immediately, it will be fine if it is damp
to put back in latex paint and use. A damp brush or roller is actually
how you prime it for use when it is dry.
I have painted entire houses, inside and out, and they are still in
great shape. Both are over 15 yrs old.
If you need to stop painting and are going to use the brush later in the
day or even a day later and it is not "dirty", you can wrap plastic wrap
around it and put it in the frig. Paint will not dry.
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