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Posted by N8N on October 27, 2009, 3:12 pm
wrote:
> Zootal wrote:
> >> Back in the olden days you could take a carburetor to the shop and
> >> they would put it in "the hot tank". It came out looking brand new
> >> (the casting). Does anyone know what that chemical was?
> >> I know to take a Holley Dual feed you needed a gallon or more of it
> >> but I am just interested in little weed eater carbs that would fit in
> >> a tea cup.
> > I used to make a living back in the 80's overhauling carbs. I don't kno=
w
> > exactly what we used - it was some sort of alkaline detergent solution,=
it
> > came in a big tank, and was actually two different solutions. One float=
ed on
> > top of the other. The stuff on top was basically inert, and the stuff o=
n the
> > bottom was what did the cleaning - the stuff on top protected the stuff=
on
> > the bottom from exposure to the atmosphere. It would dissolve just abou=
t
> > anything - wood, rubber, neoprene floats - anything that wasn't metal.
> > You won't find this at any parts store because it's too dangerous to se=
ll at
> > the consumer level - it will dissolve your hair, skin, eyeballs, childr=
en,
> > pets, etc. In this era of over the top epa regulations, etc., I'm not s=
ure
> > if you can even get it anymore. You can, however, get Gunk carb cleaner=
in a
> > bucket, and it will work fairly well, but you have to soak the parts in=
it a
> > lot longer. Be sure to rinse *thoroughly* with water, and then blow dry=
with
> > compressed air. be carefull to blow out all passages. Use new gaskets w=
hen
> > you put it together, and it will run like new.
> I do believe you can buy it from NAPA and other parts stores in 5gal
> pails. It comes with a dip basket inside the can. An example:
> http://tinyurl.com/yhpugjo
> TDD
I have one of those, it's not nearly as fearsome as I remember the old
stuff being. Does work though at least on greasy bicycle parts (all
I've used it on so far.) Needs to be rinsed off with some other
solvent though, it sticks to the parts and doesn't air dry all that
quickly (dunking parts in kerosene, if it's steel and you want to
protect it, or gasoline/lacquer thinner/acetone/whatever if it's not
steel and needs to be spotlessly clean, e.g. a carburetor, is required
afterwards)
nate
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Posted by The Daring Dufas on October 27, 2009, 6:09 pm
N8N wrote:
> wrote:
>> Zootal wrote:
>>>> Back in the olden days you could take a carburetor to the shop and
>>>> they would put it in "the hot tank". It came out looking brand new
>>>> (the casting). Does anyone know what that chemical was?
>>>> I know to take a Holley Dual feed you needed a gallon or more of it
>>>> but I am just interested in little weed eater carbs that would fit in
>>>> a tea cup.
>>> I used to make a living back in the 80's overhauling carbs. I don't know
>>> exactly what we used - it was some sort of alkaline detergent solution, it
>>> came in a big tank, and was actually two different solutions. One floated on
>>> top of the other. The stuff on top was basically inert, and the stuff on the
>>> bottom was what did the cleaning - the stuff on top protected the stuff on
>>> the bottom from exposure to the atmosphere. It would dissolve just about
>>> anything - wood, rubber, neoprene floats - anything that wasn't metal.
>>> You won't find this at any parts store because it's too dangerous to sell at
>>> the consumer level - it will dissolve your hair, skin, eyeballs, children,
>>> pets, etc. In this era of over the top epa regulations, etc., I'm not sure
>>> if you can even get it anymore. You can, however, get Gunk carb cleaner in a
>>> bucket, and it will work fairly well, but you have to soak the parts in it a
>>> lot longer. Be sure to rinse *thoroughly* with water, and then blow dry with
>>> compressed air. be carefull to blow out all passages. Use new gaskets when
>>> you put it together, and it will run like new.
>> I do believe you can buy it from NAPA and other parts stores in 5gal
>> pails. It comes with a dip basket inside the can. An example:
>> http://tinyurl.com/yhpugjo
>> TDD
>
> I have one of those, it's not nearly as fearsome as I remember the old
> stuff being. Does work though at least on greasy bicycle parts (all
> I've used it on so far.) Needs to be rinsed off with some other
> solvent though, it sticks to the parts and doesn't air dry all that
> quickly (dunking parts in kerosene, if it's steel and you want to
> protect it, or gasoline/lacquer thinner/acetone/whatever if it's not
> steel and needs to be spotlessly clean, e.g. a carburetor, is required
> afterwards)
>
> nate
Back in the early 70's I worked for an electrical supply company that
also had a motor rewinding shop. In the shop was a hot trichloroethylene
vapor tank that was used to clean parts. You would place your dirty,
greasy metal parts into the tank, the vapor would immediately start
to condense on the surfaces and you could see the grime dripping off
the metal. Sometimes the boss would let us bring our engine parts into
the shop on the weekends so we could clean them up. I miss those days.
TDD
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Posted by Red Green on October 27, 2009, 11:47 pm
> N8N wrote:
>> wrote:
>>> Zootal wrote:
>>>>> Back in the olden days you could take a carburetor to the shop and
>>>>> they would put it in "the hot tank". It came out looking brand new
>>>>> (the casting). Does anyone know what that chemical was?
>>>>> I know to take a Holley Dual feed you needed a gallon or more of
>>>>> it but I am just interested in little weed eater carbs that would
>>>>> fit in a tea cup.
>>>> I used to make a living back in the 80's overhauling carbs. I don't
>>>> know exactly what we used - it was some sort of alkaline detergent
>>>> solution, it came in a big tank, and was actually two different
>>>> solutions. One floated on top of the other. The stuff on top was
>>>> basically inert, and the stuff on the bottom was what did the
>>>> cleaning - the stuff on top protected the stuff on the bottom from
>>>> exposure to the atmosphere. It would dissolve just about anything -
>>>> wood, rubber, neoprene floats - anything that wasn't metal. You
>>>> won't find this at any parts store because it's too dangerous to
>>>> sell at the consumer level - it will dissolve your hair, skin,
>>>> eyeballs, children, pets, etc. In this era of over the top epa
>>>> regulations, etc., I'm not sure if you can even get it anymore. You
>>>> can, however, get Gunk carb cleaner in a bucket, and it will work
>>>> fairly well, but you have to soak the parts in it a lot longer. Be
>>>> sure to rinse *thoroughly* with water, and then blow dry with
>>>> compressed air. be carefull to blow out all passages. Use new
>>>> gaskets when you put it together, and it will run like new.
>>> I do believe you can buy it from NAPA and other parts stores in 5gal
>>> pails. It comes with a dip basket inside the can. An example:
>>> http://tinyurl.com/yhpugjo
>>> TDD
>>
>> I have one of those, it's not nearly as fearsome as I remember the
>> old stuff being. Does work though at least on greasy bicycle parts
>> (all I've used it on so far.) Needs to be rinsed off with some other
>> solvent though, it sticks to the parts and doesn't air dry all that
>> quickly (dunking parts in kerosene, if it's steel and you want to
>> protect it, or gasoline/lacquer thinner/acetone/whatever if it's not
>> steel and needs to be spotlessly clean, e.g. a carburetor, is
>> required afterwards)
>>
>> nate
>
> Back in the early 70's I worked for an electrical supply company that
> also had a motor rewinding shop. In the shop was a hot
> trichloroethylene vapor tank that was used to clean parts. You would
> place your dirty, greasy metal parts into the tank, the vapor would
> immediately start to condense on the surfaces and you could see the
> grime dripping off the metal. Sometimes the boss would let us bring
> our engine parts into the shop on the weekends so we could clean them
> up. I miss those days.
>
> TDD
>
I worked in a mfg shop in that era and had the same thing -
Trichloroethylene Vapor Degreaser. It was a large steel lined pit in the
concrete floor. A large basket was loaded with parts and lowered into the
pit with an overhead hoist. Had my motorcycle frame in there once to give
you an idea of the size. Under the wire mesh pit bottom was the
nightmareish liquid a bubbling. The vapor filled the pit up to the cold
water pipes that were maybe 2 ft below the top rim around the perimeter.
Vapor did not come above the pipes. You could also just hang parts in it
off the edge from long hooks. Occasionally your fingers went below the
vapor line. You had them out in less than a second but they were a combo
of white dry and red burned.
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Posted by The Daring Dufas on October 28, 2009, 12:57 am
Red Green wrote:
>
>> N8N wrote:
>>> wrote:
>>>> Zootal wrote:
>>>>>> Back in the olden days you could take a carburetor to the shop and
>>>>>> they would put it in "the hot tank". It came out looking brand new
>>>>>> (the casting). Does anyone know what that chemical was?
>>>>>> I know to take a Holley Dual feed you needed a gallon or more of
>>>>>> it but I am just interested in little weed eater carbs that would
>>>>>> fit in a tea cup.
>>>>> I used to make a living back in the 80's overhauling carbs. I don't
>>>>> know exactly what we used - it was some sort of alkaline detergent
>>>>> solution, it came in a big tank, and was actually two different
>>>>> solutions. One floated on top of the other. The stuff on top was
>>>>> basically inert, and the stuff on the bottom was what did the
>>>>> cleaning - the stuff on top protected the stuff on the bottom from
>>>>> exposure to the atmosphere. It would dissolve just about anything -
>>>>> wood, rubber, neoprene floats - anything that wasn't metal. You
>>>>> won't find this at any parts store because it's too dangerous to
>>>>> sell at the consumer level - it will dissolve your hair, skin,
>>>>> eyeballs, children, pets, etc. In this era of over the top epa
>>>>> regulations, etc., I'm not sure if you can even get it anymore. You
>>>>> can, however, get Gunk carb cleaner in a bucket, and it will work
>>>>> fairly well, but you have to soak the parts in it a lot longer. Be
>>>>> sure to rinse *thoroughly* with water, and then blow dry with
>>>>> compressed air. be carefull to blow out all passages. Use new
>>>>> gaskets when you put it together, and it will run like new.
>>>> I do believe you can buy it from NAPA and other parts stores in 5gal
>>>> pails. It comes with a dip basket inside the can. An example:
>>>> http://tinyurl.com/yhpugjo
>>>> TDD
>>> I have one of those, it's not nearly as fearsome as I remember the
>>> old stuff being. Does work though at least on greasy bicycle parts
>>> (all I've used it on so far.) Needs to be rinsed off with some other
>>> solvent though, it sticks to the parts and doesn't air dry all that
>>> quickly (dunking parts in kerosene, if it's steel and you want to
>>> protect it, or gasoline/lacquer thinner/acetone/whatever if it's not
>>> steel and needs to be spotlessly clean, e.g. a carburetor, is
>>> required afterwards)
>>> nate
>> Back in the early 70's I worked for an electrical supply company that
>> also had a motor rewinding shop. In the shop was a hot
>> trichloroethylene vapor tank that was used to clean parts. You would
>> place your dirty, greasy metal parts into the tank, the vapor would
>> immediately start to condense on the surfaces and you could see the
>> grime dripping off the metal. Sometimes the boss would let us bring
>> our engine parts into the shop on the weekends so we could clean them
>> up. I miss those days.
>> TDD
>
> I worked in a mfg shop in that era and had the same thing -
> Trichloroethylene Vapor Degreaser. It was a large steel lined pit in the
> concrete floor. A large basket was loaded with parts and lowered into the
> pit with an overhead hoist. Had my motorcycle frame in there once to give
> you an idea of the size. Under the wire mesh pit bottom was the
> nightmareish liquid a bubbling. The vapor filled the pit up to the cold
> water pipes that were maybe 2 ft below the top rim around the perimeter.
> Vapor did not come above the pipes. You could also just hang parts in it
> off the edge from long hooks. Occasionally your fingers went below the
> vapor line. You had them out in less than a second but they were a combo
> of white dry and red burned.
That's the stuff, I read where it's making a comeback because the safer
replacement was murdering the helpless little ozones. *snicker*
TDD
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Posted by on October 26, 2009, 12:52 am
On Sun, 25 Oct 2009 20:35:33 -0700, "Zootal"
>> Back in the olden days you could take a carburetor to the shop and
>> they would put it in "the hot tank". It came out looking brand new
>> (the casting). Does anyone know what that chemical was?
>> I know to take a Holley Dual feed you needed a gallon or more of it
>> but I am just interested in little weed eater carbs that would fit in
>> a tea cup.
>I used to make a living back in the 80's overhauling carbs. I don't know
>exactly what we used - it was some sort of alkaline detergent solution, it
>came in a big tank, and was actually two different solutions. One floated on
>top of the other. The stuff on top was basically inert, and the stuff on the
>bottom was what did the cleaning - the stuff on top protected the stuff on
>the bottom from exposure to the atmosphere. It would dissolve just about
>anything - wood, rubber, neoprene floats - anything that wasn't metal.
>You won't find this at any parts store because it's too dangerous to sell at
>the consumer level - it will dissolve your hair, skin, eyeballs, children,
>pets, etc. In this era of over the top epa regulations, etc., I'm not sure
>if you can even get it anymore. You can, however, get Gunk carb cleaner in a
>bucket, and it will work fairly well, but you have to soak the parts in it a
>lot longer. Be sure to rinse *thoroughly* with water, and then blow dry with
>compressed air. be carefull to blow out all passages. Use new gaskets when
>you put it together, and it will run like new.
Yep that is the stuff. I knew it was nasty, that is why they called it
a hot tank. Thanks.
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