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Options to finish wall and ceiling in garage

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Options to finish wall and ceiling in garage theedudenator 10-10-2009
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Posted by theedudenator on October 10, 2009, 2:45 pm


I have a 2-1/2 car garage built in the 1940's
It is all brick and heavy wood, insulation and paneling.
The attic is a walk-in type and is also insulated.

The wiring is also 1940's...

This winter I plan on starting from scratch on the wiring, and rip out
the paneling.

I think due to the location and build of the garage it is prone to
sweating in the spring and summer.
I will add some ventilation and a heater (working on now)

I am a bit leary of drywall due to the moisture. Any other cost
effective options to finish the ceiling and walls after I am done with
the wiring?

Thanks

Posted by aemeijers on October 10, 2009, 4:51 pm


theedudenator wrote:
> I have a 2-1/2 car garage built in the 1940's
> It is all brick and heavy wood, insulation and paneling.
> The attic is a walk-in type and is also insulated.
>
> The wiring is also 1940's...
>
> This winter I plan on starting from scratch on the wiring, and rip out
> the paneling.
>
> I think due to the location and build of the garage it is prone to
> sweating in the spring and summer.
> I will add some ventilation and a heater (working on now)
>
> I am a bit leary of drywall due to the moisture. Any other cost
> effective options to finish the ceiling and walls after I am done with
> the wiring?
>
> Thanks
If the paneling is in basically good shape and not horrific to look at,
I'd be inclined to disconnect the existing wiring, and abandon it in
place, and rewire with conduit on the surface. Cover the old boxes with
blank plates or the new boxes. Much easier to modify down the road, if
you or the next owner want to use the garage as a shop. It's a garage,
after all. Exposed wiring is not at all out of place. Being a garage,
there are likely to be all sorts of things living in those walls you
would rather not know about.

What sort of paneling is it anyway?1940s would likely have been T&G. If
it is the thin stuff that was popular in the 50s and 60s, no loss, but
T&G is about the best garage wall you can have.

--
aem sends...

Posted by theedudenator on October 10, 2009, 9:04 pm


The garage is brick, then tongue and groove, then studs, then cheap
60's paneling which looks real bad.

I wanted to pull the paneling and correct any insulation problems.



> theedudenator wrote:
> > I have a 2-1/2 car garage built in the 1940's
> > It is all brick and heavy wood, insulation and paneling.
> > The attic is a walk-in type and is also insulated.
> > The wiring is also 1940's...
> > This winter I plan on starting from scratch on the wiring, and rip out
> > the paneling.
> > I think due to the location and build of the garage it is prone to
> > sweating in the spring and summer.
> > I will add some ventilation and a heater (working on now)
> > I am a bit leary of drywall due to the moisture. =A0Any other cost
> > effective options to finish the ceiling and walls after I am done with
> > the wiring?
> > Thanks
> If the paneling is in basically good shape and not horrific to look at,
> I'd be inclined to disconnect the existing wiring, and abandon it in
> place, and rewire with conduit on the surface. Cover the old boxes with
> blank plates or the new boxes. Much easier to modify down the road, if
> you or the next owner want to use the garage as a shop. It's a garage,
> after all. Exposed wiring is not at all out of place. Being a garage,
> there are likely to be all sorts of things living in those walls you
> would rather not know about.
> What sort of paneling is it anyway?1940s would likely have been T&G. If
> it is the thin stuff that was popular in the 50s and 60s, no loss, but
> T&G is about the best garage wall you can have.
> --
> aem sends...


Posted by aemeijers on October 10, 2009, 11:08 pm


theedudenator wrote:
> The garage is brick, then tongue and groove, then studs, then cheap
> 60's paneling which looks real bad.
>
> I wanted to pull the paneling and correct any insulation problems.
>
>
>
>> theedudenator wrote:
>>> I have a 2-1/2 car garage built in the 1940's
>>> It is all brick and heavy wood, insulation and paneling.
>>> The attic is a walk-in type and is also insulated.
>>> The wiring is also 1940's...
>>> This winter I plan on starting from scratch on the wiring, and rip out
>>> the paneling.
>>> I think due to the location and build of the garage it is prone to
>>> sweating in the spring and summer.
>>> I will add some ventilation and a heater (working on now)
>>> I am a bit leary of drywall due to the moisture. Any other cost
>>> effective options to finish the ceiling and walls after I am done with
>>> the wiring?
>>> Thanks
>> If the paneling is in basically good shape and not horrific to look at,
>> I'd be inclined to disconnect the existing wiring, and abandon it in
>> place, and rewire with conduit on the surface. Cover the old boxes with
>> blank plates or the new boxes. Much easier to modify down the road, if
>> you or the next owner want to use the garage as a shop. It's a garage,
>> after all. Exposed wiring is not at all out of place. Being a garage,
>> there are likely to be all sorts of things living in those walls you
>> would rather not know about.
>> What sort of paneling is it anyway?1940s would likely have been T&G. If
>> it is the thin stuff that was popular in the 50s and 60s, no loss, but
>> T&G is about the best garage wall you can have.
>> --
>> aem sends...
>

In that case, I'd do some shopping, and build back with T&G, if I could
find a cheap source for it. Sometimes the stuff that is lower-grade than
people put in their rec rooms and saunas is available at a tolerable
price. 'Car siding' is what to ask for. Also a lot easier to install
than drywall, IMHO. Just get the starter row straight, and work out from
there. Is the brick veneer, or structural? If the paneling is 1960s, the
wiring (or part of it) may be as well. You are right, drywall is the
wrong thing for a garage with moisture issues, and OSB would be as well.
The non-paper drywall they sell for bathrooms would work, but that stuff
is pricey enough that T&G may be cheaper. Great thing about T&G is that
you can hang stuff anywhere.

--
aem sends...


Posted by theedudenator on October 11, 2009, 12:43 am


I am not sure about the brick. Since there are studs and tongue and
groove, I am assuming it is veneer.

Is the brick veneer, or structural? If the paneling is 1960s, the
> wiring (or part of it) may be as well. =A0You are right, drywall is the
> wrong thing for a garage with moisture issues, and OSB would be as well.
> The non-paper drywall they sell for bathrooms would work, but that stuff
> is pricey enough that T&G may be cheaper. Great thing about T&G is that
> you can hang stuff anywhere.
> --
> aem sends...


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