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Posted by benick on October 11, 2009, 9:07 pm
I will need to price out tongue and groove vs drywall.
If the T&G does not cost alot that is what I would prefer...
I can tell you right now T&G will be more costly than drywall ..The ceiling
of the garage however , will NEED to be 5/8 Type X drywall as it has a room
over it.....Same goes for the wall between the house and garage if
attached...You can put your T&G over the drywall on the fire wall AFTER it
has been fire taped but I'd finish tape the ceiling.......
show/hide quoted text
> Hustlin' Hank wrote:
> >> I have a 2-1/2 car garage built in the 1940's
> >> It is all brick and heavy wood, insulation and paneling.
> >> The attic is a walk-in type and is also insulated.
> >> The wiring is also 1940's...
> >> This winter I plan on starting from scratch on the wiring, and rip out
> >> the paneling.
> >> I think due to the location and build of the garage it is prone to
> >> sweating in the spring and summer.
> >> I will add some ventilation and a heater (working on now)
> >> I am a bit leary of drywall due to the moisture. Any other cost
> >> effective options to finish the ceiling and walls after I am done with
> >> the wiring?
> >> Thanks
> > Do you like the looks of pole barn siding? I put up the metal siding
> > that is used for pole barns on the walls and ceiling. You can get it
> > in different colors, it is ordered within an inch of the length you
> > need and I didn't have to tape any joints, nor paint. Install and
> > you're done and it can be washed off easily.
> > Hank
> I thought about recommending that, but he wants to bury the wiring in
> the wall. That stuff is a pain to install around electrical boxes. Plus,
> he already said he has condensation problems- metal walls will just make
> that worse.
> --
> aem sends...
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Posted by theedudenator on October 12, 2009, 2:41 pm
The garage is not attached.
I ripped the side wall apart this weekend.
From the inside out, studs, 12" wide tongue and groove at 45 degree
angle, tar paper then red brick.
All of the wood looks good, the paneling and insulation was from the
60's - it is all going in the trash.
I am now planing on drywall everywhere.
Any benefit to using the moisture type drywall in bathrooms? Or just
go with standard 5/8" and a good coat of paint.
I will be adding a furnace and correcting ventilation issues.
I have a new ridge vent in the roof, but little soffit vents, that
look to be clogged with insulation.
This will hopefully fix my moisture issues.
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Posted by benick on October 12, 2009, 7:28 pm
show/hide quoted text
> The garage is not attached.
> I ripped the side wall apart this weekend.
> From the inside out, studs, 12" wide tongue and groove at 45 degree
> angle, tar paper then red brick.
> All of the wood looks good, the paneling and insulation was from the
> 60's - it is all going in the trash.
> I am now planing on drywall everywhere.
> Any benefit to using the moisture type drywall in bathrooms? Or just
> go with standard 5/8" and a good coat of paint.
> I will be adding a furnace and correcting ventilation issues.
> I have a new ridge vent in the roof, but little soffit vents, that
> look to be clogged with insulation.
> This will hopefully fix my moisture issues.
Unless there is a frequently used shower you don't "need " MR sheetrock in a
bathroom...Code may say otherwise however...The only place you need 5/8 Type
X sheetrock is the ceiling of the garage and the wall between the house and
garage...The rest can be half inch...Cheaper and MUCH easier to handle and
install...LOL...Good luck...
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Posted by theedudenator on October 13, 2009, 6:41 am
Why is 5/8" called out on the ceilings?
I already have wood strips every 16" in both directions.
I was not planning on removing the ceiling, just drywalling over the
existing.
show/hide quoted text
> Unless there is a frequently used shower you don't "need " MR sheetrock in a
> bathroom...Code may say otherwise however...The only place you need 5/8 Type
> X sheetrock is the ceiling of the garage and the wall between the house and
> garage...The rest can be half inch...Cheaper and MUCH easier to handle and
> install...LOL...Good luck...
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Posted by benick on October 13, 2009, 3:41 pm
> Why is 5/8" called out on the ceilings?
> I already have wood strips every 16" in both directions.
> I was not planning on removing the ceiling, just drywalling over the
> existing.
>> Unless there is a frequently used shower you don't "need " MR sheetrock
>> in a
>> bathroom...Code may say otherwise however...The only place you need 5/8
>> Type
>> X sheetrock is the ceiling of the garage and the wall between the house
>> and
>> garage...The rest can be half inch...Cheaper and MUCH easier to handle
>> and
>> install...LOL...Good luck...
Because you have living space over the garage the ceiling in the garage has
to be 5/8 Type X Fire Code Sheetrock for fire protection for the living
space above...Same goes for the wall between the garage and house IF
attached for the same reasons...Both your insurance company and Fire Code
requires it.......No ifs , ands or buts....
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> >> I have a 2-1/2 car garage built in the 1940's
> >> It is all brick and heavy wood, insulation and paneling.
> >> The attic is a walk-in type and is also insulated.
> >> The wiring is also 1940's...
> >> This winter I plan on starting from scratch on the wiring, and rip out
> >> the paneling.
> >> I think due to the location and build of the garage it is prone to
> >> sweating in the spring and summer.
> >> I will add some ventilation and a heater (working on now)
> >> I am a bit leary of drywall due to the moisture. Any other cost
> >> effective options to finish the ceiling and walls after I am done with
> >> the wiring?
> >> Thanks
> > Do you like the looks of pole barn siding? I put up the metal siding
> > that is used for pole barns on the walls and ceiling. You can get it
> > in different colors, it is ordered within an inch of the length you
> > need and I didn't have to tape any joints, nor paint. Install and
> > you're done and it can be washed off easily.
> > Hank
> I thought about recommending that, but he wants to bury the wiring in
> the wall. That stuff is a pain to install around electrical boxes. Plus,
> he already said he has condensation problems- metal walls will just make
> that worse.
> --
> aem sends...