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Outdoor Weatherproof Receptacles - Curiosity Wayne Boatwright 04-26-2008
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Posted by Mark Lloyd on April 27, 2008, 5:31 pm
On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 14:49:22 GMT, Wayne Boatwright

[snip]

>> I use a series of solid-state relays so all the holiday lights are
>> controlled by ONE timer, and so go on and off at the same time. This
>> is a temporary setup That I put out in the middle of October (a few
>> Halloween lights). The individual outlets still have GFCIs.
>
>Great idea... Are these anything like the X-10 devices? I used these in a
>previous home for all interior lighting, either in wall switches or plug-in
>modules.
>

[snip]

There are not powerline-carrier devices, but hardwired (temporarily).
I have my holiday lights flashing at about 1Hz. X10 devices are too
slow for this. I have the relays linked using 6-wire telephone-type
cable. The relays themselves are installed in plastic electrical boxes
along with the controlled receptacles. They are located inside and
plugged into a GFCI, with cords going out windows. The control signal
comes from an old computer (Pentium 166) through a simple RS232-level
buffer I built with a MAX233 IC.

BTW, The wires are assigned like this:

1 (white) exclusion line. This is on when the lights are and can be
connected to NC relays to disable things that shouldn't be used at the
same time as the holiday lights.

2 (black) lights on (+12V from wall-wart will be present from sunset
to 10PM).

3 (red) flash 1. Output from computer serial port to flash lights. The
computer switches the DTR line (connected to this) to say "Happy
Holidays" in Morse code.

4 (green) flash 2. Logical NOT of above. However, both these lines can
be made active to turn all lights on to take still pictures.

5 (yellow) ground. As you might have guessed, I originally planned
this for 4 wires.

6 (blue) [reserved for future use]

These wires carry no voltages outside the range of -10V to +12V. The
normal current is no higher than the few mA needed to operate the
SSRs.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"So far as I can remember, there is not one word
in the Gospels in praise of intelligence."
--Bertrand Russell

Posted by Wayne Boatwright on April 27, 2008, 6:41 pm
On Sun 27 Apr 2008 02:31:41p, Mark Lloyd told us...

> On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 14:49:22 GMT, Wayne Boatwright
>
> [snip]
>
>>> I use a series of solid-state relays so all the holiday lights are
>>> controlled by ONE timer, and so go on and off at the same time. This
>>> is a temporary setup That I put out in the middle of October (a few
>>> Halloween lights). The individual outlets still have GFCIs.
>>
>>Great idea... Are these anything like the X-10 devices? I used these
>>in a previous home for all interior lighting, either in wall switches or
>>plug-in modules.
>>
>
> [snip]
>
> There are not powerline-carrier devices, but hardwired (temporarily).
> I have my holiday lights flashing at about 1Hz. X10 devices are too
> slow for this. I have the relays linked using 6-wire telephone-type
> cable. The relays themselves are installed in plastic electrical boxes
> along with the controlled receptacles. They are located inside and
> plugged into a GFCI, with cords going out windows. The control signal
> comes from an old computer (Pentium 166) through a simple RS232-level
> buffer I built with a MAX233 IC.
>
> BTW, The wires are assigned like this:
>
> 1 (white) exclusion line. This is on when the lights are and can be
> connected to NC relays to disable things that shouldn't be used at the
> same time as the holiday lights.
>
> 2 (black) lights on (+12V from wall-wart will be present from sunset
> to 10PM).
>
> 3 (red) flash 1. Output from computer serial port to flash lights. The
> computer switches the DTR line (connected to this) to say "Happy
> Holidays" in Morse code.
>
> 4 (green) flash 2. Logical NOT of above. However, both these lines can
> be made active to turn all lights on to take still pictures.
>
> 5 (yellow) ground. As you might have guessed, I originally planned
> this for 4 wires.
>
> 6 (blue) [reserved for future use]
>
> These wires carry no voltages outside the range of -10V to +12V. The
> normal current is no higher than the few mA needed to operate the
> SSRs.

Very interesting installation! I'm sure it's really very nice, but I doubt
I personally would have the patience to put it together. I think they call
that "lazy". :-)

--
Wayne Boatwright
-------------------------------------------
Sunday, 04(IV)/27(XXVII)/08(MMVIII)
-------------------------------------------
Today is: Rogation Sunday
Countdown till Memorial Day
4wks 8hrs 20mins
-------------------------------------------
'Bother,' said Pooh as he switched
between Animaniacs and Star Trek.
-------------------------------------------

Posted by aemeijers on April 26, 2008, 8:11 pm
Wayne Boatwright wrote:
> On Sat 26 Apr 2008 04:21:56p, Tony Hwang told us...
>
>> Wayne Boatwright wrote:
>>
>>> This is a question of curiosity more than anything, as I don't plan to
>>> make changes to the way I have installed outdoor outlets.
>>>
>>> In several homes, including the present one where I am currently
>>> installing outdoor outlets, this has been my method...
>>>
>>> At a point opposite on the inside of the house where a receptable
>>> already exists, I drill a hole in the outside wall (cedar), and from
>>> the inside, push through a length of exterior grade "romex" (the same
>>> guage as the interior wiring) through an existing self-clamping opening
>>> in the interior junction box to the outside and through the hole. I
>>> connect the inside wires to the existing receptacle.
>>>
>>> On the outside, I seal the hole around the romex with silicone sealant,
>>> and mount an exterior weatherproof box (also sealed behind it with
>>> silicone swealant. After the sealant has cured, I connect a GFCI
>>> receptacle to the romex and mount it in the box. I then attach an
>>> "always in use" hooded cover plate to complete the installation.
>>>
>>> While I know this has proven to be safe over all the years I've used
>>> this technique, I wonder whether it is really according to code, and if
>>> not, what exactly would the code require instead.
>>>
>>> BTW, I currently live in Mesa, AZ, if that makes a difference.
>>>
>>> Thanks for any responses.
>>>
>> Hi,
>> And better be on GFCI circuit.
>>
>
> The receptacle I install in the box is GFCI. I need more than that?
>
I think he is saying it would be better to put the GFCI in the <inside>
box you have open. That way, if rain does happen to leak into the wire
through the wall and shorts it out, the GFCI should trip. With the GFCI
in the outside box, that short run that is near the weather is not
protected. In general, the GFCI should be on the upstream end of any
protected circuit.

--
aem sends...

Posted by Wayne Boatwright on April 26, 2008, 8:23 pm
On Sat 26 Apr 2008 05:11:48p, aemeijers told us...

> Wayne Boatwright wrote:
>> On Sat 26 Apr 2008 04:21:56p, Tony Hwang told us...
>>
>>> Wayne Boatwright wrote:
>>>
>>>> This is a question of curiosity more than anything, as I don't plan to
>>>> make changes to the way I have installed outdoor outlets.
>>>>
>>>> In several homes, including the present one where I am currently
>>>> installing outdoor outlets, this has been my method...
>>>>
>>>> At a point opposite on the inside of the house where a receptable
>>>> already exists, I drill a hole in the outside wall (cedar), and from
>>>> the inside, push through a length of exterior grade "romex" (the same
>>>> guage as the interior wiring) through an existing self-clamping
opening
>>>> in the interior junction box to the outside and through the hole. I
>>>> connect the inside wires to the existing receptacle.
>>>>
>>>> On the outside, I seal the hole around the romex with silicone
sealant,
>>>> and mount an exterior weatherproof box (also sealed behind it with
>>>> silicone swealant. After the sealant has cured, I connect a GFCI
>>>> receptacle to the romex and mount it in the box. I then attach an
>>>> "always in use" hooded cover plate to complete the installation.
>>>>
>>>> While I know this has proven to be safe over all the years I've used
>>>> this technique, I wonder whether it is really according to code, and
if
>>>> not, what exactly would the code require instead.
>>>>
>>>> BTW, I currently live in Mesa, AZ, if that makes a difference.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for any responses.
>>>>
>>> Hi,
>>> And better be on GFCI circuit.
>>>
>>
>> The receptacle I install in the box is GFCI. I need more than that?
>>
> I think he is saying it would be better to put the GFCI in the <inside>
> box you have open. That way, if rain does happen to leak into the wire
> through the wall and shorts it out, the GFCI should trip. With the GFCI
> in the outside box, that short run that is near the weather is not
> protected. In general, the GFCI should be on the upstream end of any
> protected circuit.
>
> --
> aem sends...
>

I understand your logic, and did that in the first house where I installed
exteriors. However, considering the overall construction, the problem you
describe is very unlikely to occur. Also, it's quite inconvenient if
something outdoor trips the GFCI inside and whatever is using the outlet on
the inside also goes out.

If you read Tony's subsequent post, I don't think mounting it inside is
what he meant.

Thanks for your comments, however.

--
Wayne Boatwright
-------------------------------------------
Saturday, 04(IV)/26(XXVI)/08(MMVIII)
-------------------------------------------
Countdown till Memorial Day
4wks 1dys 6hrs 40mins
-------------------------------------------
There's more to life than sitting
around in the sun in your underwear
playing the clarinet. --Woody Allen
-------------------------------------------

Posted by terry on April 26, 2008, 10:40 pm
On Apr 26, 10:23=A0pm, Wayne Boatwright
> On Sat 26 Apr 2008 05:11:48p, aemeijers told us...

I like your method. Each 'outside' outlet is its own GFCI and
accessible from outside if/when it does trip.
It protects whoever/whatever is plugged into that outside outlet in
the event of anything causing a current unbalance in the live and
neutral leads, such as leaky outdoor electric tool etc. Without
disabling the whole circuit or tripping a GFCI breaker at the main or
secondary circuit breaker panel somewhere inside the house.
Which reminds me still have one outside outlet hardly ever used, not
itself equipped with or protected by an upstream GFCI.
Thanks for the reminder. terry

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