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Subject Author Date
Oven Igniter Issue Mark 05-22-2006
|--> Re: Oven Igniter Issue Appliance Repai...05-23-2006
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Posted by Mark on May 22, 2006, 9:06 pm
My daughter's Whirlpool gas oven doesn't light, while the burners do. I've
had the same problem with my own ovens over the years, and it has always
been the igniter. I seem to recall these costing me around $30 or $35 to
replace, a risk I was willing to take on the chance it was something else!
I checked the igniter for her oven and its around $75 - a bit more of a risk
if the problem is something else.

It is a bottom line oven - probably could replace with a similar model for
around $300. No electronics involved (doesn't even have a clock). Is there
much else that could be the cause of this problem? Worth risking the $75
that the igniter is the problem?

Thanks!

Mark



Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on May 22, 2006, 10:00 pm

>
> It is a bottom line oven - probably could replace with a similar model for
> around $300. No electronics involved (doesn't even have a clock). Is
> there much else that could be the cause of this problem? Worth risking
> the $75 that the igniter is the problem?

You may get some ideas at www.repairclinic.com in the diagnostics section
The price of repair parts for any appliance sucks. You can also buy parts
from repair clinic. I bought a fan motor for my AC and it was cheaper than
most places, but other parts seem a bit higher.



Posted by Mark on May 22, 2006, 10:12 pm
The site wasn't a lot of help - seems geared to electric ranges.

Funny how parts are (for appliances as with cars) - if you tried to build
one from the parts department you'd pay 50 or 100 times the price of a
factory built unit!


>
>>
>> It is a bottom line oven - probably could replace with a similar model
>> for around $300. No electronics involved (doesn't even have a clock). Is
>> there much else that could be the cause of this problem? Worth risking
>> the $75 that the igniter is the problem?
>
> You may get some ideas at www.repairclinic.com in the diagnostics section
> The price of repair parts for any appliance sucks. You can also buy parts
> from repair clinic. I bought a fan motor for my AC and it was cheaper
> than most places, but other parts seem a bit higher.
>



Posted by on May 23, 2006, 4:47 pm
wrote:

>
>>
>> It is a bottom line oven - probably could replace with a similar model for
>> around $300. No electronics involved (doesn't even have a clock). Is
>> there much else that could be the cause of this problem? Worth risking
>> the $75 that the igniter is the problem?
>
>You may get some ideas at www.repairclinic.com in the diagnostics section
>The price of repair parts for any appliance sucks. You can also buy parts
>from repair clinic. I bought a fan motor for my AC and it was cheaper than
>most places, but other parts seem a bit higher.
>

While buying parts online may seem cheaper, add the shipping and you
will pay much more. For my lawn mower I needed a small and simple
gasket. I would have to order it locally at a small engine shop, and
the cost was $6.00. But I'd have to wait 4 to 6 weeks. I looked
online and found the part for $3.71 and it said I'd receive it in one
week or less. Then I saw the shipping cost..... $12.99.
How in the hell they can justify $12.99 for a lousy 2 ounce gasket is
rediculous. Shopping online is more often than not a ripoff, and that
does not include the risk of posting credit card or banking info
online and/or using a very risky and corrupt business such as paypal.

I ordered the part at the store and bought a cheap mower at a garage
sale for $10. I can use that mower till I get my part, and now I have
a spare mower for about the same money as the shipping alone.

Charlie

Posted by JGolan on May 23, 2006, 6:08 am
Mark,

The igniter is the most likely cause. you can verify it two ways.

1. the voltage is typically 120 in a gas stove for this circuit. Using
a voltmeter measure the voltage where the igniter connects while the
oven turned on to operation.

2. Remove the igniter and test it with an ohm meter. It should measure
between 50 - 600 ohms. If your meter reads an open it is faulty.

If you do not have a meter, remove the igniter and do a physical
inspection, you should see a spot on it (sometimes white, sometimes
black) where it burnt "open"

The cost is about right having replaced mine only about 3 months ago
and now the igniter in my gas dryer died as well.

Joe


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