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Posted by DK on September 23, 2006, 12:52 pm
I can see a 3 inch line coming thru the foundation, but after that
you should NOT have anything less than a 4 inch line going to the city
service hookup.
Otherwise you are talking temporary fixes. But that's okay, as long
as you know that you will be revisiting the problem again in a year or
two.
>Line runs as diagrammed behind the house (this was a septic conversion
>in the '70's)
>makes a turn at the house corner goes 15' concrete pad and then 80+'
>to the street at 10' to 12'. Two other house lines combine with the
>line somewhere in the front of the house.
>Don't want to tacke that. Just want to fix the problem.
>
>DK wrote:
>> I'm sure you will live to regret your decision.
>>
>> Why not tear up and replace the whole thing while you doing the
>> hatchet job.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >
>> >kstar wrote:
>> >> The local 'big box' has 6' white IPS PVC DWV with cellular core. I've
>> >> done a little research and it is unclear if I can use the white PVC for
>> >> an outside replacement of the 6" Clay pipe. The codes on the DWV pipe
>> >> indicate it is F-891-00, schedule 40, NSF, and JM 30/35. The building
>> >> department for the city has told me I can use schedule 40. But is the
>> >> white OK for US outside applications? I know green is usually used.
>> >> Any advise is appreciated.
>> >
>> >Correction that's 6" white IPS PVC. What I am doing is replacing clay
>> >pipes that have developed a leak. The whole thing is complicated by
>> >the number of exits from the house on this run and a chipmunk that has
>> >created a cavity under part of the pipe. . There are 3 cast iron
>> >exits within 12 feet. It is a septic conversion. Would also like to
>> >ask about fitting all the connections together. I bought rubber donuts
>> >that will convert the 2" and 3" cast iron to 4" plastic. And I have a
>> >4" to 4" rubber ring for the 4" cast iron. It seems like the only way
>> >to make this work is to make one connection at a time starting from the
>> >clay to PVC connection. Plan is to:
>> >Dry fit and mark the pipe to the first connection to make sure it will
>> >fit.
>> >Disconnect and install the donut on the first connection so that it is
>> >back far enough to not interfere with the putting the last PVC piece
>> >in place.
>> >Then connect the PV to clay (rubber boot) and glue my way to the first
>> >connection off a PVC T connector.
>> >Finally pounding the donut into the PVC. Then repeat to the next
>> >connection.
>> >Having difficulty imagining how to make sure it all fits correctly.
>> >Using cross marks at the connectors will help on the PVC. But the clay
>> >to pvc connection will be harder to mark and get correct. Any
>> >corrections to the above or other ideas would be helplful.
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