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Posted by alta47 on September 27, 2008, 11:23 am
I need to replace a short vertical section of cracked 4" cast iron sewer
line. The section to be replaced is a little less than 4 feet long. The
top of the cast iron above the connection is already supported so it can't
drop down when I take out the bad section.
What I am thinking of doing is breaking out the bad/cracked section of cast
iron, and hopefully ending up with a clean male end of the cast iron at the
top, and a clean female end of the cast iron at the bottom. To connect the
PVC to the cast iron at the top, I plan on using a rubber connector.
My question is about the bottom part. I would like to insert the PVC into
the female cast iron fitting at the bottom and then seal that connection
with something. I am thinking that since it is a vertical connection, and
it is not under pressure, this should be able to work without the fitting
leaking. Is there some sealant or product that will work for this?
Is the alternative to look for a rubber fitting for the bottom that is big
enough on one end to go over the extra large cast iron female fitting and
regular 4" size on the other end for the PVC male end?
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Posted by RicodJour on September 27, 2008, 11:38 am
show/hide quoted text
> I need to replace a short vertical section of cracked 4" cast iron sewer
> line. =A0The section to be replaced is a little less than 4 feet long. =
=A0The
show/hide quoted text
> top of the cast iron above the connection is already supported so it can'=
> drop down when I take out the bad section.
> What I am thinking of doing is breaking out the bad/cracked section of ca=
> iron, and hopefully ending up with a clean male end of the cast iron at t=
> top, and a clean female end of the cast iron at the bottom. =A0To connect=
the
show/hide quoted text
> PVC to the cast iron at the top, I plan on using a rubber connector.
> My question is about the bottom part. =A0I would like to insert the PVC i=
nto
show/hide quoted text
> the female cast iron fitting at the bottom and then seal that connection
> with something. =A0 I am thinking that since it is a vertical connection,=
and
show/hide quoted text
> it is not under pressure, this should be able to work without the fitting
> leaking. =A0Is there some sealant or product that will work for this?
> Is the alternative to look for a rubber fitting for the bottom that is bi=
> enough on one end to go over the extra large cast iron female fitting and
> regular 4" size on the other end for the PVC male end?
http://www.buyhardwaresupplies.com/?t=3D5&itemNumber=3D43544
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Posted by HerHusband on September 27, 2008, 12:37 pm
show/hide quoted text
> I need to replace a short vertical section of cracked 4" cast iron
> sewer line. The section to be replaced is a little less than 4 feet
> long. The top of the cast iron above the connection is already
> supported so it can't drop down when I take out the bad section.
> What I am thinking of doing is breaking out the bad/cracked section of
> cast iron, and hopefully ending up with a clean male end of the cast
> iron at the top
I recently replaced cast iron pipes at my in-laws with PVC. I used a metal
cut-off wheel in my 4" angle grinder and it was quick and easy to make
clean cuts. Then I used a rubber "Fernco" style of coupling to connect the
new PVC to the existing cast iron.
In my case, the cast iron was 4" and the new PVC was 3", so I slid a long
length of PVC down the inside of the cast iron and used a reducing fernco
coupling. It worked great.
show/hide quoted text
> My question is about the bottom part. I would like to insert the PVC
> into the female cast iron fitting at the bottom and then seal that
> connection with something.
If possible, I'd cut the female fitting away so you just have straight pipe
on each end you can connect with Fernco couplings.
show/hide quoted text
> I am thinking that since it is a vertical connection, and it is not
> under pressure, this should be able to work without the fitting leaking.
Until you get a plugged sewer drain, or it otherwise backs up. Then that
connection would easily let waste flow out.
show/hide quoted text
> Is there some sealant or product that will work for this?
I think there are rubber fittings for adapting to female fittings, but I
haven't seen them locally. You would probably have to check with a plumbing
supply.
Good luck,
Anthony
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Posted by hallerb@aol.com on September 27, 2008, 1:43 pm
show/hide quoted text
> > I need to replace a short vertical section of cracked 4" cast iron
> > sewer line. =EF=BF=BDThe section to be replaced is a little less than 4=
feet
show/hide quoted text
> > long. =EF=BF=BDThe top of the cast iron above the connection is already
> > supported so it can't drop down when I take out the bad section.
> > What I am thinking of doing is breaking out the bad/cracked section of
> > cast iron, and hopefully ending up with a clean male end of the cast
> > iron at the top
> I recently replaced cast iron pipes at my in-laws with PVC. I used a meta=
> cut-off wheel in my 4" angle grinder and it was quick and easy to make
> clean cuts. Then I used a rubber "Fernco" style of coupling to connect th=
> new PVC to the existing cast iron.
> In my case, the cast iron was 4" and the new PVC was 3", so I slid a long
> length of PVC down the inside of the cast iron and used a reducing fernco
> coupling. It worked great.
> > My question is about the bottom part. =EF=BF=BDI would like to insert t=
he PVC
show/hide quoted text
> > into the female cast iron fitting at the bottom and then seal that
> > connection with something.
> If possible, I'd cut the female fitting away so you just have straight pi=
> on each end you can connect with Fernco couplings.
> > I am thinking that since it is a vertical connection, and it is not
> > under pressure, this should be able to work without the fitting leaking=
> Until you get a plugged sewer drain, or it otherwise backs up. Then that
> connection would easily let waste flow out.
> > Is there some sealant or product that will work for this?
> I think there are rubber fittings for adapting to female fittings, but I
> haven't seen them locally. You would probably have to check with a plumbi=
> supply.
> Good luck,
> Anthony
be sure to support the cast iron above before removing the section to
be replace.
or the entire line may move, causing a rroof leak, cast iron is very
heavy
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Posted by dpb on September 27, 2008, 1:42 pm
hallerb@aol.com wrote:
...
show/hide quoted text
>>> ... The top of the cast iron above the connection is already
>>> supported so it can't drop down when I take out the bad section.
...
show/hide quoted text
> be sure to support the cast iron above before removing the section to
> be replace.
...
Read _BEFORE_ posting, maybe???? :(
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> line. =A0The section to be replaced is a little less than 4 feet long. =