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Posted by oldee on November 27, 2005, 4:09 pm
I found a leak in the connection of a 3" PVC drain during wet testing.
I cut out the bad fitting and replaced it with a length of pipe that
has a regular coupler on one end and a repair-coupler on the other.
These pipes will not move lengthwise so a regular coupler can not be
put on both ends. The repair-coupler has no center ridge so it can
slide completely over one pipe and after the pipes are aligned it can
be center over both pipes. I have tried this four times, cutting out
more sections but I always get a leaky joint.
I install the pipe and regular coupler on one end before installing the
repair-coupler. I put glue on the ends of both pipes, the
repair-coupler and more glue on the pipes. I shove the repair-coupler
on one pipe so it doesn't stick out, align the pipes and pull the
repair-coupler back over both pipes. I try to twist the repair-coupler
a quarter turn; the results vary but with regular glue I was able to
twist it OK.
I have tried both Oatey Heavy Duty PVC Cement (green) and Oatey Regular
PVC Cement (gold). The heavy duty stuff is thick and doesn't give me
enough time. Once it dried so fast I couldn't pull the repair-coupler
back over both pipes. Another time I was able to center the
repair-coupler but it took a huge effort. The regular glue was much
easier to work with but in all cases I ended up with a leaky joint. I
test by filling the pipe with water after two hours of dry time. There
is no pressure other than the weight of the water. This is what my
inspector wants me to do.
Could it be too cold? Its about 50F in my attic where this problem is.
Is there a better technique? I noticed it leaks on the side of the
coupler were the second pipe is attached. The pipe that I slid the
coupler complete on before centering is OK.
With the heavy duty cement I cleaned the pipes with Oatley Cleaner
(yellow). With the regular cement I cleaned the pipes with 100-grit
sand paper. Could this be a problem?
Has anyone used these PVC repair-couplers? I doesn't seem like it
should be this hard. I'd rather not use the rubber things.
...old-ee
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Posted by deans@wdeans.com on November 27, 2005, 4:20 pm
oldee wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> I found a leak in the connection of a 3" PVC drain during wet testing.
> I cut out the bad fitting and replaced it with a length of pipe that
> has a regular coupler on one end and a repair-coupler on the other.
> These pipes will not move lengthwise so a regular coupler can not be
> put on both ends. The repair-coupler has no center ridge so it can
> slide completely over one pipe and after the pipes are aligned it can
> be center over both pipes. I have tried this four times, cutting out
> more sections but I always get a leaky joint.
> I install the pipe and regular coupler on one end before installing the
> repair-coupler. I put glue on the ends of both pipes, the
> repair-coupler and more glue on the pipes. I shove the repair-coupler
> on one pipe so it doesn't stick out, align the pipes and pull the
> repair-coupler back over both pipes. I try to twist the repair-coupler
> a quarter turn; the results vary but with regular glue I was able to
> twist it OK.
> I have tried both Oatey Heavy Duty PVC Cement (green) and Oatey Regular
> PVC Cement (gold). The heavy duty stuff is thick and doesn't give me
> enough time. Once it dried so fast I couldn't pull the repair-coupler
> back over both pipes. Another time I was able to center the
> repair-coupler but it took a huge effort. The regular glue was much
> easier to work with but in all cases I ended up with a leaky joint. I
> test by filling the pipe with water after two hours of dry time. There
> is no pressure other than the weight of the water. This is what my
> inspector wants me to do.
> Could it be too cold? Its about 50F in my attic where this problem is.
> Is there a better technique? I noticed it leaks on the side of the
> coupler were the second pipe is attached. The pipe that I slid the
> coupler complete on before centering is OK.
> With the heavy duty cement I cleaned the pipes with Oatley Cleaner
> (yellow). With the regular cement I cleaned the pipes with 100-grit
> sand paper. Could this be a problem?
> Has anyone used these PVC repair-couplers? I doesn't seem like it
> should be this hard. I'd rather not use the rubber things.
> ...old-ee
Greetings,
a) there is nothing wrong with using a Fernco ("rubber things")
b) if the glue works on the regular coupler it should also work on the
repair coupler regardless of temperature
c) is there a very small diameter mismatch? Try taking a regular
coupler and removing the ridge to make it into a repair coupler.
d) WORK FASTER. I know it is hard but don't let the thing sit around
for the glue to harden.
e) Does it always leak on the same side of the repair coupler? For
instance, does it always leak on the side you slide it onto or the side
you slide it off of? You might try sliding it 2/3 onto the side it
always leaks from instead of 1/2 onto each side.
Hope this helps,
William
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Posted by SQLit on November 27, 2005, 4:22 pm
show/hide quoted text
> I found a leak in the connection of a 3" PVC drain during wet testing.
> I cut out the bad fitting and replaced it with a length of pipe that
> has a regular coupler on one end and a repair-coupler on the other.
> These pipes will not move lengthwise so a regular coupler can not be
> put on both ends. The repair-coupler has no center ridge so it can
> slide completely over one pipe and after the pipes are aligned it can
> be center over both pipes. I have tried this four times, cutting out
> more sections but I always get a leaky joint.
> I install the pipe and regular coupler on one end before installing the
> repair-coupler. I put glue on the ends of both pipes, the
> repair-coupler and more glue on the pipes. I shove the repair-coupler
> on one pipe so it doesn't stick out, align the pipes and pull the
> repair-coupler back over both pipes. I try to twist the repair-coupler
> a quarter turn; the results vary but with regular glue I was able to
> twist it OK.
> I have tried both Oatey Heavy Duty PVC Cement (green) and Oatey Regular
> PVC Cement (gold). The heavy duty stuff is thick and doesn't give me
> enough time. Once it dried so fast I couldn't pull the repair-coupler
> back over both pipes. Another time I was able to center the
> repair-coupler but it took a huge effort. The regular glue was much
> easier to work with but in all cases I ended up with a leaky joint. I
> test by filling the pipe with water after two hours of dry time. There
> is no pressure other than the weight of the water. This is what my
> inspector wants me to do.
> Could it be too cold? Its about 50F in my attic where this problem is.
> Is there a better technique? I noticed it leaks on the side of the
> coupler were the second pipe is attached. The pipe that I slid the
> coupler complete on before centering is OK.
> With the heavy duty cement I cleaned the pipes with Oatley Cleaner
> (yellow). With the regular cement I cleaned the pipes with 100-grit
> sand paper. Could this be a problem?
> Has anyone used these PVC repair-couplers? I doesn't seem like it
> should be this hard. I'd rather not use the rubber things.
> ...old-ee
3 inch PVC in the attic? If it is not a vertical pipe then there is
something different about your installation than what I am familiar with.
2 hours at 50 F pretty short time frame. Better let it sit over night.
What color is the pipe? If it is black, ABS then you maybe using the wrong
material and cement.
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Posted by oldee on November 27, 2005, 4:43 pm
Thanks for your prompt replies.
The pipes are the same nominal size. When dry the coupler fits real
snug on both pipes, it takes some effort to slide it on either pipe.
I'm not sure if it always leaks from the same side. Sometimes it leaks
on top, sometimes on bottom but I can't remember which pipe I slid the
coupler on first except the last time. The last time I did it it leaked
from the second side.
It is a vertical pipe. Its actually in the stairway on the way up to
the attic. Its not in heated space.
I'll let it sit longer.
This is white PVC pipe.
...old-ee
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Posted by Bob on November 27, 2005, 7:09 pm
show/hide quoted text
> Thanks for your prompt replies.
> The pipes are the same nominal size. When dry the coupler
fits real
show/hide quoted text
> snug on both pipes, it takes some effort to slide it on
either pipe.
show/hide quoted text
> I'm not sure if it always leaks from the same side.
Sometimes it leaks
show/hide quoted text
> on top, sometimes on bottom but I can't remember which
pipe I slid the
show/hide quoted text
> coupler on first except the last time. The last time I did
it it leaked
show/hide quoted text
> from the second side.
> It is a vertical pipe. Its actually in the stairway on the
way up to
show/hide quoted text
> the attic. Its not in heated space.
> I'll let it sit longer.
> This is white PVC pipe.
You can try a bead of PVC cement on the outside of the
leaking pipe after it has dried. If you can somehow create a
slight vacuum in the pipe while applying this, it will suck
cement into the void and do a better job of sealing. I have
had some success using this method. YMMV.
Bob
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> I cut out the bad fitting and replaced it with a length of pipe that
> has a regular coupler on one end and a repair-coupler on the other.
> These pipes will not move lengthwise so a regular coupler can not be
> put on both ends. The repair-coupler has no center ridge so it can
> slide completely over one pipe and after the pipes are aligned it can
> be center over both pipes. I have tried this four times, cutting out
> more sections but I always get a leaky joint.
> I install the pipe and regular coupler on one end before installing the
> repair-coupler. I put glue on the ends of both pipes, the
> repair-coupler and more glue on the pipes. I shove the repair-coupler
> on one pipe so it doesn't stick out, align the pipes and pull the
> repair-coupler back over both pipes. I try to twist the repair-coupler
> a quarter turn; the results vary but with regular glue I was able to
> twist it OK.
> I have tried both Oatey Heavy Duty PVC Cement (green) and Oatey Regular
> PVC Cement (gold). The heavy duty stuff is thick and doesn't give me
> enough time. Once it dried so fast I couldn't pull the repair-coupler
> back over both pipes. Another time I was able to center the
> repair-coupler but it took a huge effort. The regular glue was much
> easier to work with but in all cases I ended up with a leaky joint. I
> test by filling the pipe with water after two hours of dry time. There
> is no pressure other than the weight of the water. This is what my
> inspector wants me to do.
> Could it be too cold? Its about 50F in my attic where this problem is.
> Is there a better technique? I noticed it leaks on the side of the
> coupler were the second pipe is attached. The pipe that I slid the
> coupler complete on before centering is OK.
> With the heavy duty cement I cleaned the pipes with Oatley Cleaner
> (yellow). With the regular cement I cleaned the pipes with 100-grit
> sand paper. Could this be a problem?
> Has anyone used these PVC repair-couplers? I doesn't seem like it
> should be this hard. I'd rather not use the rubber things.
> ...old-ee