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Posted by hr(bob) hofmann@att.net on November 4, 2009, 10:20 pm
> > You're expecting way too much. =A0If you had the original can of paint,=
it
> > would probably not be dead on out in the middle of a wall. =A0Any touch=
up
> > painting will always require painting corner to corner, top to bottom.
> At last, a reasonable man.
I saved a quart of kitchen wall satin finish paint from when we
painted 8 years ago and when we had to change the mount for our
cordless telephone answering system last month, I mixed a little paint
with the drywall mud and filled in the appropriate areas. Then I
sanded down the entire area and painted it with a 2" roller, doing it
twice. I can't find the edge marks because it blended in so well.
But, the paint is a very mild off-white/yellow color. I washed the
whole wall before starting the patching, and even the sheen matches so
closely that it is difficult where the transition is. But, it was the
exact same apint.
Where I go, to the local big orange box, they smear a heavy coat of
the newly mixed paint on a white paper and then dry it thoroughly with
a hair dryer and check that against the sample you provide. They
prefer an actual chip of the paint to be matched, from some
inconspicuous point on the wall. If they are esperienced, and the
color is a little off, they can add a little of one of the colorants
to the original mix, put it in the shaker and try a second time. Then
they have to change the formula on the paper that they print out to
stick on the can.
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Posted by SteveB on November 5, 2009, 12:49 pm
> > You're expecting way too much. If you had the original can of paint, it
> > would probably not be dead on out in the middle of a wall. Any touch up
> > painting will always require painting corner to corner, top to bottom.
> At last, a reasonable man.
I saved a quart of kitchen wall satin finish paint from when we
painted 8 years ago and when we had to change the mount for our
cordless telephone answering system last month, I mixed a little paint
with the drywall mud and filled in the appropriate areas. Then I
sanded down the entire area and painted it with a 2" roller, doing it
twice. I can't find the edge marks because it blended in so well.
But, the paint is a very mild off-white/yellow color. I washed the
whole wall before starting the patching, and even the sheen matches so
closely that it is difficult where the transition is. But, it was the
exact same apint.
Where I go, to the local big orange box, they smear a heavy coat of
the newly mixed paint on a white paper and then dry it thoroughly with
a hair dryer and check that against the sample you provide. They
prefer an actual chip of the paint to be matched, from some
inconspicuous point on the wall. If they are esperienced, and the
color is a little off, they can add a little of one of the colorants
to the original mix, put it in the shaker and try a second time. Then
they have to change the formula on the paper that they print out to
stick on the can.
reply:
I've had good luck with the big box store, too. And if you can peel a big
enough chip off to put in their computer, it will match pretty good, even if
it has aged or faded. It's all up to the individual, as slight differences
may not be a big deal to some people, yet others have to have it just so.
Steve
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Posted by Red Green on November 5, 2009, 7:27 pm
>
>> > You're expecting way too much. If you had the original can of
>> > paint, it would probably not be dead on out in the middle of a
>> > wall. Any touch up painting will always require painting corner to
>> > corner, top to bottom.
>> At last, a reasonable man.
>
> I saved a quart of kitchen wall satin finish paint from when we
> painted 8 years ago and when we had to change the mount for our
> cordless telephone answering system last month, I mixed a little paint
> with the drywall mud and filled in the appropriate areas. Then I
> sanded down the entire area and painted it with a 2" roller, doing it
> twice. I can't find the edge marks because it blended in so well.
> But, the paint is a very mild off-white/yellow color. I washed the
> whole wall before starting the patching, and even the sheen matches so
> closely that it is difficult where the transition is. But, it was the
> exact same apint.
>
> Where I go, to the local big orange box, they smear a heavy coat of
> the newly mixed paint on a white paper and then dry it thoroughly with
> a hair dryer and check that against the sample you provide. They
> prefer an actual chip of the paint to be matched, from some
> inconspicuous point on the wall. If they are esperienced, and the
> color is a little off, they can add a little of one of the colorants
> to the original mix, put it in the shaker and try a second time. Then
> they have to change the formula on the paper that they print out to
> stick on the can.
>
> reply:
>
> I've had good luck with the big box store, too. And if you can peel a
> big enough chip off to put in their computer, it will match pretty
> good, even if it has aged or faded.
But if the paint is textured it can toss the reader into tilt mode I
hear. Any sample surface not perpendicular to the reader will be
interpreted as a slightly different shade. Not saying it always will but
the probability is a lot higher.
> It's all up to the individual, as
> slight differences may not be a big deal to some people, yet others
> have to have it just so.
>
> Steve
>
>
>
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Posted by Nate Nagel on November 5, 2009, 6:09 pm
N8N wrote:
>> wrote:
>>>> Red Green wrote:
>>>>> Like to add, when touching up even from an original can, blend/fog by
>>>>> running the brush/roller virtually dry way past the area being done.
>>>>> Differences are harder to notice.
>>>> IME and IMO this is the best solution for the OP assuming that the new paint
>>>> color is pretty close. One can also feather out by diluting the paint.
>>> It's not at all, that's the problem. I've had three different batches
>>> of paint mixed and only one was close enough to even try putting it on
>>> the wall, and it is clearly different - patches look like shadows.
>> I guess I just don't repaint often enough-- or maybe too often-- but
>> in 50 years of home-owning and doing my own painting, I don't recall a
>> single time that I tried to paint part of a wall-- and only a handful
>> of times that I painted less than the entire room.
>
> We bought a very old house a couple years ago, and the PO's repainted
> before the sale - and they apparently were big fans of mounting stuff
> on the wall (e.g. mirrors etc.) and were NOT big fans of removing
> things like light fixtures, mirrors, switch plates, etc. when
> repainting. So for an example, when we had air conditioning installed
> and had the old round thermostat replaced with a new programmable one,
> there was an ugly exposed area of old paint, mounting holes, etc. left
> behind with a big ridge of brush marks showing the outline of the old
> thermostat. Likewise, they'd glued pieces of mirror on the wall in
> the living room to conceal the old electrical boxes for wall sconces;
> when I ripped those down to install new sconces I've got more
> ugliness. (but I still have to take the big mirror - mounted like a
> bathroom mirror, with clips - down over the mantel, which will cause
> another big mess-o-ugliness) In each case there's enough brush marks,
> holes, etc. that most of these areas get a skim coat of drywall mud,
> primer, etc.
>
> Once I've got enough of these really egregious trouble spots done,
> then we'll likely go ahead and repaint whole walls or rooms, but I'm
> just trying to keep the house from looking like a perpetual
> construction site while this is going on.
>
> nate
Follow up:
apparently I wasn't being too picky.
Somehow, miracle of miracles, I actually managed to get free from work
twice in one week so I went back to the Real Paint Store and told the
guy I wasn't happy with the match. He tuned it up and it's MUCH better.
Haven't rolled any on the walls yet but it looks like it is a better
match than I got from the Orange Colored Store. I'll be happy even if
it isn't perfect, just so long as the patches aren't real obvious until
such time as we can repaint. Guess I just got the b-teamer on the first
attempt. And the guy did take notes on his touchup so I can get more if
I need it, but I hope I won't.
So now I get to patch the ceiling in the kitchen, 'cause I can paint it.
Yay! (I think yay?)
Now another paint matching question - I have another area that needs
some spot repairs that's a slightly different color. In that room
however the vent grilles are on the baseboards so I don't have any
easily removable pieces painted the wall color that I can take to the
paint store. How do I get that matched? or do I just take a whole
buttload of color chips home with me and start holding them up to the
wall? (my eye really isn't quite good enough to narrow it down enough
that I can just grab two or three chips...) Or is there an easy way to
peel a sheet of paint off of a wall?
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
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Posted by blueman on November 5, 2009, 2:07 am
> Red Green wrote:
>> Like to add, when touching up even from an original can, blend/fog by
>> running the brush/roller virtually dry way past the area being done.
>> Differences are harder to notice.
> IME and IMO this is the best solution for the OP assuming that the new paint
> color is pretty close. One can also feather out by diluting the paint.
Another good tip is too *wash* the entire wall. A lot of the mismatch
is due more to accumulate dust/dirt/grime than to actual fading -
especially indoor areas not exposed to lots of direct sunlight.
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