Home Page link

Painting a metal door?

Home| Search | About
Login Password
Register Now! Lost Password?

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 1 of 4       1 2 3 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Painting a metal door? Cshenk 11-03-2007
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by Cshenk on November 3, 2007, 6:41 pm
One of the other things my renters did was replace my lovely old oak front
door, with a cheaper metal one. (apparently they got in a fight and kicked
the old one in per my neighbors). They did have it well installed, new
frame and all. There are only 2 problems. One is easy to fix (they didnt
redo the interior molding which is broken in places).

The only 'problem' is the new door is white and my house is almond and dark
brown exterior. The inside also needs to change as the white sticks out
like a sore thumb against the cherry stained 50/60's style pinewood walls.
(angled appx 4 inch wide solid boards, lovely stuff).

What sort of paint is recommended for this type of door? I've never painted
a metal door and we do not want drips or brushstrokes. For the inside, we
are considering a sort of 'distressed almond/ivory' with an antique looking
wallpaper on the lower 'squares' (you'd have to see the place to realize
this would work here, normally would sound pretty stupid).




PexSupply Save 10 468x60
Posted by Phisherman on November 3, 2007, 4:18 pm
wrote:

>One of the other things my renters did was replace my lovely old oak front
>door, with a cheaper metal one. (apparently they got in a fight and kicked
>the old one in per my neighbors). They did have it well installed, new
>frame and all. There are only 2 problems. One is easy to fix (they didnt
>redo the interior molding which is broken in places).
>
>The only 'problem' is the new door is white and my house is almond and dark
>brown exterior. The inside also needs to change as the white sticks out
>like a sore thumb against the cherry stained 50/60's style pinewood walls.
>(angled appx 4 inch wide solid boards, lovely stuff).
>
>What sort of paint is recommended for this type of door? I've never painted
>a metal door and we do not want drips or brushstrokes. For the inside, we
>are considering a sort of 'distressed almond/ivory' with an antique looking
>wallpaper on the lower 'squares' (you'd have to see the place to realize
>this would work here, normally would sound pretty stupid).
>
>

Use a quality exterior semi-gloss or gloss latex enamel. I prefer
Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore. Remove the door hinge pins and
rest the door on two sawhorses. Remove the hardware and window (if
present). Mask off the hinge. Lightly sand the surface using 220
grit. Prime and apply two finish coats per manufacturer's
suggestions. The paint should last 20+ years.

Posted by Cshenk on November 3, 2007, 8:36 pm

"Phisherman" wrote

One painting a metal exterior door:.

>>What sort of paint is recommended for this type of door? I've never
>>painted
>>a metal door and we do not want drips or brushstrokes. For the inside, we
>
> Use a quality exterior semi-gloss or gloss latex enamel. I prefer
> Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore. Remove the door hinge pins and
> rest the door on two sawhorses. Remove the hardware and window (if
> present). Mask off the hinge. Lightly sand the surface using 220
> grit. Prime and apply two finish coats per manufacturer's
> suggestions. The paint should last 20+ years.

Ok thanks! The hardware is just the deadbolt and doorknob which we can
masking tape off pretty easy (samwich bag over knob).

Is the reason for removing the door and putting it over sawhorses to prevent
drips? My husband was thinking to do it in place with 3 coats and thinned
down latex exterior lightly applied. We didnt know the grit level for the
sandpaper or the recommended brands of paint so thank you!

Todays work was light: to replace 3 sets of blinds. Don did a very nice job
with them. 2 roughly 78 inch (were they 72?) and 1 102 inch. The type with
panels that hang down and you cut the bottoms to fit what you want. We
didnt get fancy panels (that can wait for later for cost reasons). Later,
we will put up curtins (over in case of the livingroom, behind in case of
bedroom). I even have some nice ones that are in shipment from our
household goods from Japan, that are made to fit in the top clip and replace
the long blinds which we think we may do for the kitchen patio door to the
back porch. They also can attach to a normal rod or a round one you sort of
shuffle the curtin along (has 3 attachments and we saved them from the kit).

xxcarol



Posted by aemeijers on November 3, 2007, 7:22 pm
Cshenk wrote:
> "Phisherman" wrote
>
> One painting a metal exterior door:.
>
>>> What sort of paint is recommended for this type of door? I've never
>>> painted
>>> a metal door and we do not want drips or brushstrokes. For the inside, we
>> Use a quality exterior semi-gloss or gloss latex enamel. I prefer
>> Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore. Remove the door hinge pins and
>> rest the door on two sawhorses. Remove the hardware and window (if
>> present). Mask off the hinge. Lightly sand the surface using 220
>> grit. Prime and apply two finish coats per manufacturer's
>> suggestions. The paint should last 20+ years.
>
> Ok thanks! The hardware is just the deadbolt and doorknob which we can
> masking tape off pretty easy (samwich bag over knob).

Uh, no you <really> want to take the knob and deadbolt off. No reason
not to- it is just a few screws. If you mask it, no matter how
carefully, there will always be paint on the knob, and when (not if) the
knob gets a tad loose, the unpainted areas will show, and when the knob
moves it will likely flake the paint edge right around it.


> Is the reason for removing the door and putting it over sawhorses to prevent
> drips? My husband was thinking to do it in place with 3 coats and thinned
> down latex exterior lightly applied. We didnt know the grit level for the
> sandpaper or the recommended brands of paint so thank you!
>
Painting on horses is much preferred, to avoid runs, avoid missing
spots, and because it is much easier to see what you are doing, to get
in all the little nooks and crannies. You paint in place, you have to
keep the door propped open anyway. Just as easy to barricade the hole if
you have to leave it overnight.

aem sends...

Posted by Cshenk on November 3, 2007, 10:36 pm

"aemeijers" wrote

> Cshenk wrote:
>> "Phisherman" wrote
>>
>> One painting a metal exterior door:.
>>
>>> Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore. Remove the door hinge pins and
>>> rest the door on two sawhorses. Remove the hardware and window (if
>>> present). Mask off the hinge. Lightly sand the surface using 220
>>> grit. Prime and apply two finish coats per manufacturer's
>>> suggestions. The paint should last 20+ years.
>>
>> Ok thanks! The hardware is just the deadbolt and doorknob which we can
>> masking tape off pretty easy (samwich bag over knob).
>
> Uh, no you <really> want to take the knob and deadbolt off. No reason not
> to- it is just a few screws. If you mask it, no matter how carefully,
> there will always be paint on the knob, and when (not if) the knob gets a
> tad loose, the unpainted areas will show, and when the knob moves it will
> likely flake the paint edge right around it.

Knobs can be replaced but Don ans I are both Navy and using to taping orr
correctly. There's several tricks to it uncluding using a razor blade
around the edges to make a clean line. We just changed out the door
hardware and can again but it's easier to tape off in this case. It's the
hardware on the frame we'd want to remove before painting that.

>> Is the reason for removing the door and putting it over sawhorses to
>> prevent drips? My husband was thinking to do it in place with 3 coats
>> and thinned down latex exterior lightly applied. We didnt know the grit
>> level for the sandpaper or the recommended brands of paint so thank you!
>>
> Painting on horses is much preferred, to avoid runs, avoid missing spots,
> and because it is much easier to see what you are doing, to get in all the
> little nooks and crannies. You paint in place, you have to keep the door
> propped open anyway. Just as easy to barricade the hole if you have to
> leave it overnight.

Ok and thanks! Might do that then. Don's checking to see if he can
color-match a brown to the same as we need for the brickwork (slightly
diffrent paints involved).



Page 1 of 4       1 2 3 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
Painting metal August 13, 2005, 12:18 pm
Help with painting metal railing? July 25, 2006, 2:58 pm
Painting a metal roof October 31, 2007, 5:25 pm
Painting Metal Shower Stall October 3, 2006, 5:07 pm
Re: Painting Galvanized Sheet Metal April 9, 2008, 11:22 am
Re: Painting Galvanized Sheet Metal April 9, 2008, 11:41 am
Re: Painting Galvanized Sheet Metal April 9, 2008, 12:22 pm
painting around door trim - inside painting September 30, 2006, 9:13 pm
Painting a standing seam metal roof? March 1, 2006, 7:36 pm
Painting Metal Pannels - Large Building June 5, 2006, 7:10 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap