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Peeling Paint - door frame

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Peeling Paint - door frame RichK 08-16-2007
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Posted by RickH on August 16, 2007, 4:33 pm
> Guess you're suggesting a chemical stripper. Which should I use, since it
> would be working on both layers, which are of different paint?
>
> The top layer would be easy to remove mechanically, but messy. Well, no
> paint is easy to remove :-) Bottom (I suspect oil) is very well attached to
> the wood.
>
> RichK
>
>
>
>
> > If you can get it off with a fingernail then stripping it should be
> > easy, the new strippers are pretty gentle on your lungs and hands
> > compared to years ago. Then you could just prime/paint onto the good
> > layer. No, primer wont penetrate it and somehow re-attach the layer
> > below.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

The one I used came in a green and white plastic bucket and was a gel
from HD. It was pretty pleasant to work with not like the old lye or
solvent strippers. You dont need to take it down to bare wood, just
that top layer. Scrape the stripped paint, a little wire brushing,
then apply the neutralizer, prime/paint when dry, it doesnt have to
look perfect just down to a sound surface. Somebody probably did just
slap some latex over an oil finish.



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Posted by TakenEvent on August 17, 2007, 12:36 am

> > Guess you're suggesting a chemical stripper. Which should I use, since
it
> > would be working on both layers, which are of different paint?
> >
> > The top layer would be easy to remove mechanically, but messy. Well, no
> > paint is easy to remove :-) Bottom (I suspect oil) is very well
attached to
> > the wood.
> >
> > RichK
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > If you can get it off with a fingernail then stripping it should be
> > > easy, the new strippers are pretty gentle on your lungs and hands
> > > compared to years ago. Then you could just prime/paint onto the good
> > > layer. No, primer wont penetrate it and somehow re-attach the layer
> > > below.- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> The one I used came in a green and white plastic bucket and was a gel
> from HD. It was pretty pleasant to work with not like the old lye or
> solvent strippers. You dont need to take it down to bare wood, just
> that top layer. Scrape the stripped paint, a little wire brushing,
> then apply the neutralizer, prime/paint when dry, it doesnt have to
> look perfect just down to a sound surface. Somebody probably did just
> slap some latex over an oil finish.
>
>

You're talking about Citri-Strip or something like that. The problem with
those types of strippers is that they can take a LONG time to dry, meaning
the house could possibly be a disaster area for up to a week while trying to
strip all that stuff. Sometimes it's nice to have a stripper that
evaporates slowly, other times it can be a nuisance. Scrape, sand, prime,
and paint.




Posted by RickH on August 17, 2007, 9:33 am
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > > Guess you're suggesting a chemical stripper. Which should I use, since
> it
> > > would be working on both layers, which are of different paint?
>
> > > The top layer would be easy to remove mechanically, but messy. Well, no
> > > paint is easy to remove :-) Bottom (I suspect oil) is very well
> attached to
> > > the wood.
>
> > > RichK
>
>
> > > > If you can get it off with a fingernail then stripping it should be
> > > > easy, the new strippers are pretty gentle on your lungs and hands
> > > > compared to years ago. Then you could just prime/paint onto the good
> > > > layer. No, primer wont penetrate it and somehow re-attach the layer
> > > > below.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > The one I used came in a green and white plastic bucket and was a gel
> > from HD. It was pretty pleasant to work with not like the old lye or
> > solvent strippers. You dont need to take it down to bare wood, just
> > that top layer. Scrape the stripped paint, a little wire brushing,
> > then apply the neutralizer, prime/paint when dry, it doesnt have to
> > look perfect just down to a sound surface. Somebody probably did just
> > slap some latex over an oil finish.
>
> You're talking about Citri-Strip or something like that. The problem with
> those types of strippers is that they can take a LONG time to dry, meaning
> the house could possibly be a disaster area for up to a week while trying to
> strip all that stuff. Sometimes it's nice to have a stripper that
> evaporates slowly, other times it can be a nuisance. Scrape, sand, prime,
> and paint.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

It wasn't Citri Strip but it was the one that has the infomercial
(maybe still citris). I still find it easier to strip instead of dry
scraping/sanding, maybe others would rather scrape. This stuff was
not caustic like the old stuff I once used in 1984 and nearly passed
out.





Posted by on August 17, 2007, 1:16 pm
A heat gun should be able to bubble up the existing paint quickly.
I've done it several times. Remove the door before trying to do this,
it will only get in the way. I'd also remove the hinges, since they
are most likely painted over and therefore look extremely ugly.


Posted by Art on August 16, 2007, 5:52 pm
Is it an outside door? Is the wood solid? If not you have an installation
problem (no flashing) and paint won't help.


> Hi,
>
> Have a case of peeling paint on the door frame. Looks fine, but if you
> scrape it, even with a finger nail, it comes off quite easily. Was
> painted
> before my time. There's a layer of paint, under the one that's peeling.
>
> Suspect it's a case of latex on oil, without a primer. Removing the top
> layer would be a mess. If I primed the top layer with say Kilz (or
> similar), would the primer penetrate the latex and attach itself to the
> layer below?
>
> Do not know the age of the top layer, but could be 5 years.
>
> TIA,
>
> RichK
>
>



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