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Posted by J. Clarke on July 13, 2006, 9:17 am
hallerb@aol.com wrote:
>
> J. Clarke wrote:
>> hallerb@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> > outdoor poluurthane may not stick well to shellac, the polyurethane is
>> > a absolute seal for odors. i know what i am talking about having
>> > rehabbed my moms house, incontenient mom, step dad and dogs...
>>
>> Sticks fine if you use dewaxed shellac. Shellac is the accepted odor
>> barrier. If you want to use something else go ahead. But I wouldn't
>> recommend an "outdoor polyurethane" for interior use.
>>
>> > you cant scrub it off, only seal it in.
>> >
>> > walls absorb odors, seal walls with bin
>>
>> Which is shellac.
>>
>> > or kilz
>>
>> Which is specifically formulated to replace shellac
>>
>> > after scrubing then
>> > paint with whatever you want.
>> >
>> > concrete can be sealed with outdoor polyurethane too
>>
>> --
>> --John
>
>
> the fire restoration industry uses outdoor polyurethane, since its
> waterproof. smelly when applied lasts forever.
> BIN is also the fire restoration standard.
Nothing lasts forever. Certainly nothing made of wood. Not only is outdoor
polyurethane smelly, but it also may have fumes of greater toxicity than
indoor and the only thing it brings to the party is UV inhibitors.
Like I said, BIN is shellac. If you want to use that particular brand by
all means do so, but make sure it's fresh.
> I helped friends after a home fire:( I also rehabbed a urine soaked
> smelly home.
>
> Both came out fine with no odors at all.
For how long? Have 10 years elapsed? 20? 30?
> IFYOUR GOING TO DO A JOB DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE THEN GO RELAX!
Which means the accepted barrier coat.
> The cost and work difference isnt much when you have to do it again....
>
> why not use outdoor polyurethane indoors other than initial odor?
How soon do you want to occupy the premises? How much isocyanate can your
system tolerate?
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
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