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Posted by J. Clarke on July 13, 2006, 11:19 am
hallerb@aol.com wrote:
>
> J. Clarke wrote:
>> hallerb@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > J. Clarke wrote:
>> >> hallerb@aol.com wrote:
>> >>
>> >> > outdoor poluurthane may not stick well to shellac, the polyurethane
>> >> > is a absolute seal for odors. i know what i am talking about having
>> >> > rehabbed my moms house, incontenient mom, step dad and dogs...
>> >>
>> >> Sticks fine if you use dewaxed shellac. Shellac is the accepted odor
>> >> barrier. If you want to use something else go ahead. But I wouldn't
>> >> recommend an "outdoor polyurethane" for interior use.
>> >>
>> >> > you cant scrub it off, only seal it in.
>> >> >
>> >> > walls absorb odors, seal walls with bin
>> >>
>> >> Which is shellac.
>> >>
>> >> > or kilz
>> >>
>> >> Which is specifically formulated to replace shellac
>> >>
>> >> > after scrubing then
>> >> > paint with whatever you want.
>> >> >
>> >> > concrete can be sealed with outdoor polyurethane too
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >> --John
>> >
>> >
>> > the fire restoration industry uses outdoor polyurethane, since its
>> > waterproof. smelly when applied lasts forever.
>> > BIN is also the fire restoration standard.
>>
>> Nothing lasts forever. Certainly nothing made of wood. Not only is
>> outdoor polyurethane smelly, but it also may have fumes of greater
>> toxicity than indoor and the only thing it brings to the party is UV
>> inhibitors.
>>
>> Like I said, BIN is shellac. If you want to use that particular brand by
>> all means do so, but make sure it's fresh.
>>
>> > I helped friends after a home fire:( I also rehabbed a urine soaked
>> > smelly home.
>> >
>> > Both came out fine with no odors at all.
>>
>> For how long? Have 10 years elapsed? 20? 30?
>>
>> > IFYOUR GOING TO DO A JOB DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE THEN GO RELAX!
>>
>> Which means the accepted barrier coat.
>>
>> > The cost and work difference isnt much when you have to do it again....
>> >
>> > why not use outdoor polyurethane indoors other than initial odor?
>>
>> How soon do you want to occupy the premises? How much isocyanate can
>> your system tolerate?
>>
>> --
>> --John
> REGULAR PPOLYURETHANE softens in the presence of moisture. Outdoor
> doesnt.
Source please? Hint, most single-component polyurethane cures in the
presence of moisture.
> You dont want a hot humid day to generate bad odors
If it does then your method failed.
> Incidently the urine odor mitigation was 10 years ago. I sold the home
> about 1.5 years ago and disclosed it had been a problem. The neighbors
> knew no use trying to avoid the issue. The buyer had a special contract
> part written in if odors should reoccur, they havent.
10 years is not long in the life of a house.
> You dont do outdoor polyurethane with anyone living in home. It must be
> vacant.
So you want the OP to live in a hotel for _how_ long?
> so your stuck on shellac, thats fine and also know the odor will
> reappear. Thats true of shellac, poly is forever.
In an earlier post you recommend BIN, which is dewaxed shellac, or Kilz,
which is marketed as an alkyd coating purpose made as a replacement for
shellac. Now you're saying that if you use shellac then the odor will
reoccur. So which is it?
And I did not say to use only shellac, I said to use it as an odor barrier
and then put whatever you want on top of it, which includes polyurethane.
I don't see why you're having a problem with that.
> The fellow who taught me what to do was a realtor of 35 years who owned
> and rented property. he reported poly a plywood floor to stop odors.
Oh, a realtor. Now there's an expert for you.
> THIS IS THE PROFESSIONAL APPROACH, you are free to do whatever you want
> and waste all the time and money you care too.
If this is in fact a recognized "professional approach" then you should be
able to reference a standard of some kind that says so, or literature from
manufacturers of polyurethane coatings recommending them for this purpose,
or some other such source.
So a realtor taught you a trick and on that basis you're sure that it's the
only viable approach.
Believe what you want to. Meanwhile I'll go with the standard method, which
is to apply a shellac odor barrier and then an appropriate coating.
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
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