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Placing Molding Seams? Jeff B 04-06-2008
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Posted by Jeff B on April 6, 2008, 9:01 pm
My new kitchen has 2 sets of molding for the wall cabinets...a 7"
vertical board to cover most of the space between the top of the cab
and the ceiling, and crown molding on top of that. One wall is about
12' long and the molding comes in 8' lengths. Since its stained
cherry with different grain patterns and variation in color, a visible
seam is inevitable.

I've already installed the vertical boards and decided to put the
miter joint in the center of the wall..so I have 2 6' pieces. The
seam is NOT lined up with a cab door or frame line. The question is
where to put the crowm molding. If I put it in the same way, I'll
have an obviously long vertical line. Should I put the 8' crown in
the middle of the wall and then 2 2' sections on either end? I'll
have 2 joints but that will break up the vertical lines.

What do pros usually do with long walls??

Thanks!

--Jeff

Posted by RicodJour on April 7, 2008, 12:42 am
> My new kitchen has 2 sets of molding for the wall cabinets...a 7"
> vertical board to cover most of the space between the top of the cab
> and the ceiling, and crown molding on top of that. One wall is about
> 12' long and the molding comes in 8' lengths. Since its stained
> cherry with different grain patterns and variation in color, a visible
> seam is inevitable.
>
> I've already installed the vertical boards and decided to put the
> miter joint in the center of the wall..so I have 2 6' pieces. The
> seam is NOT lined up with a cab door or frame line. The question is
> where to put the crowm molding. If I put it in the same way, I'll
> have an obviously long vertical line. Should I put the 8' crown in
> the middle of the wall and then 2 2' sections on either end? I'll
> have 2 joints but that will break up the vertical lines.
>
> What do pros usually do with long walls??

I would probably have used an 8' piece for each layer starting from
opposite ends so that the seams would be offset by 4'. You can't do
that now, but using a full piece would offset the seam by 2' which
should be fine.

R

Posted by Jeff B on April 7, 2008, 7:43 am
I'm not sure what you mean. The vertical boards are now 6/6. After
hitting "send", I realized that another option for the crown molding
would be 4/4/4 rather than 2/8/2. Is that what you meant??

--Jeff



>
> I would probably have used an 8' piece for each layer starting from
> opposite ends so that the seams would be offset by 4'. =A0You can't do
> that now, but using a full piece would offset the seam by 2' which
> should be fine.
>
> R- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


Posted by Leon on April 7, 2008, 9:41 am

I'm not sure what you mean. The vertical boards are now 6/6. After
hitting "send", I realized that another option for the crown molding
would be 4/4/4 rather than 2/8/2. Is that what you meant??



Fewer seams are better. Cut the joint/seam at a 45 degree angle so that if
the joint open up a bit it will not be an open hole. Also cut the 45 so
that you do not look down into the joint at that 45 degree position.
Basically have the joint point away from the normal viewing angle.



Posted by RicodJour on April 7, 2008, 10:29 am
>
> > I would probably have used an 8' piece for each layer starting from
> > opposite ends so that the seams would be offset by 4'. You can't do
> > that now, but using a full piece would offset the seam by 2' which
> > should be fine.
>
> I'm not sure what you mean. The vertical boards are now 6/6. After
> hitting "send", I realized that another option for the crown molding
> would be 4/4/4 rather than 2/8/2. Is that what you meant??

No. Why would you want two seams when one will do? Use an 8' piece
and a 4' piece - that will offset the seam between the different trim
pieces 2'.

R

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