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Placing Molding Seams?

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Placing Molding Seams? Jeff B 04-06-2008
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Posted by EXT on April 7, 2008, 11:07 am
It might be simpler to pre-assemble the pieces. Are you sure that they only
come in 8 foot lengths, most moulding suppliers have long lengths available
simply because the pros don't want to have joints.

If you join them in the shop or at least before you install them, you can
cut them at a 45 degree angle, use biscuits, and clamp them straight with no
visible misalignment. I have also glued a piece of 1/4 inch plywood to the
back to reinforce the joint. It won't be hard to install a 12 foot piece, I
have installed some 18 foot lengths by myself without problems. Done this
way you will have the least visible joint possible.

> My new kitchen has 2 sets of molding for the wall cabinets...a 7"
> vertical board to cover most of the space between the top of the cab
> and the ceiling, and crown molding on top of that. One wall is about
> 12' long and the molding comes in 8' lengths. Since its stained
> cherry with different grain patterns and variation in color, a visible
> seam is inevitable.
>
> I've already installed the vertical boards and decided to put the
> miter joint in the center of the wall..so I have 2 6' pieces. The
> seam is NOT lined up with a cab door or frame line. The question is
> where to put the crowm molding. If I put it in the same way, I'll
> have an obviously long vertical line. Should I put the 8' crown in
> the middle of the wall and then 2 2' sections on either end? I'll
> have 2 joints but that will break up the vertical lines.
>
> What do pros usually do with long walls??
>
> Thanks!
>
> --Jeff



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