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Plumbing problem hearinggloss@yahoo.com 02-16-2007
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Posted by hearinggloss@yahoo.com on February 16, 2007, 1:51 pm


> > My whole point of being here is to get it done properly.
> > Sorry for the confusion.
>
> No need to be sorry for anything. In reading my last post I pretty
> much sounded like a know it all and cussing you out......and I
> apologize for that. It was not intentional. I just wanted to direct
> you in the right way.......and to not listen to some of these people.
> Sure, the dripping may stop from some of these fixes some people
> suggested, but it is the improper way and most likely will
> fail......someday.
>
> I apologize for my behavior ; forgive me.
> Dean

Heh, heh...you're forgiven. It's not a problem and appreciate your
help, I really do. I had already printed out the file you supplied and
that's what I am planning to use.
Epoxy doesn't sound right and I tried tape already. It didn't work.
You had said 'CPVC Socket X Metal Thread' is the better option. I'll
stop off on the way home and check them out.
I just want to do it right. I'm sick of this drip. It's like the
Chinese Water Torture.
Thank you.



PexSupply Full Banner
Posted by avid_hiker on February 20, 2007, 7:30 am




> I just want to do it right. I'm sick of this drip. It's like the
> Chinese Water Torture.
> Thank you.


Id be interested in how this worked out once installed. Keep us
informed if you would, thx

Dean


Posted by John Gilmer on February 17, 2007, 7:57 am




> I don't understand. I AM trying to go from copper to plastic. Are you
> talking about the ones with the hose type, rotating fitting?

You are going from a female copper/brass to male plastic (if I read things
correctly.)

I was suggest that (if the situation permits) you should go from 1/2" copper
tubing to a female plastic adapter. The plastic "adaptor" could be a
transition to all plastic with glued joints (plastic glued joints are VERY
reliable when done right) or it could be an elbow or even a valve.

I used a 1/2" plastic valve when I needed to temporarily cap on 1/2" copper
tubing. When I reconnect, I will not have to shut off the water.

These adaptors (tubing to plastic) "work" as well even when there is water
present. You can't say the same for pipe dope, solder, or glue. Maybe
you can have some water flowing when working with teflon tape.

>



Posted by Harry K on February 17, 2007, 11:02 am


> > I don't understand. I AM trying to go from copper to plastic. Are you
> > talking about the ones with the hose type, rotating fitting?
>
> You are going from a female copper/brass to male plastic (if I read things
> correctly.)
>
> I was suggest that (if the situation permits) you should go from 1/2" copper
> tubing to a female plastic adapter.

<snip>

Any reason for recommending the female plastic? That goes against all
the advice I have seen. I also had the benefit of using a female
plastic to iron transition. Got to dig it up in the spring to fix the
leak caused by the female adapter splitting on the casting line.

The only leaks I have ever had other than the above (and I've done a
lot of plastic over the years) was in using 1/2" size. Never a big
leak and fortunately were always in my basement so it wasn't a
problem. I just let them go and they sealed themselves after a time.

Harry K


Posted by John Gilmer on February 17, 2007, 10:12 pm



> > > I don't understand. I AM trying to go from copper to plastic. Are you
> > > talking about the ones with the hose type, rotating fitting?
> >
> > You are going from a female copper/brass to male plastic (if I read
things
> > correctly.)
> >
> > I was suggest that (if the situation permits) you should go from 1/2"
copper
> > tubing to a female plastic adapter.
>
> <snip>
>
> Any reason for recommending the female plastic?

>That goes against all
> the advice I have seen. I also had the benefit of using a female
> plastic to iron transition. Got to dig it up in the spring to fix the
> leak caused by the female adapter splitting on the casting line.
>

I'm talking about the adaptors that have a elastic ring which actually seals
the connection. Short of the plastic cracking, the seal should be sound
regardless of on expansion due to temperature.

> The only leaks I have ever had other than the above (and I've done a
> lot of plastic over the years) was in using 1/2" size. Never a big
> leak and fortunately were always in my basement so it wasn't a
> problem. I just let them go and they sealed themselves after a time.

Threaded joints (with dope) often seal themselves. Occasionally, a sloppy
solder joint will do the same thing. The sealing depends upon there being
some crap in the water to slow down the leak and some minerals to really
seal things up.

>
> Harry K
>



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