If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by Ed on November 8, 2006, 7:13 pm
We are trying to replace the light in our late-60s era swimming pool.
Our electrician told us
in advance that new 8" lights were no longer available so he was going
to have to use an
adapter. That was the plan, but now when he is trying to install it
things don't match up
the way he assumed they wood.
Here is a photo of the new light and adapter:
http://www.efsowell.us/pool/NineInchAdaptor.JPG
and the niche in the wall of the pool:
http://www.efsowell.us/pool/niche.JPG
The electrician thinks the ears on the back of the adapter are
supposed to slip INSIDE the niche,
but they won't. That is, the inside diameter of the niche is smaller
than the diameter formed by the
mounting ears on the adapter.
I told him it looked like the ears were supposed to fit on the OUTSIDE
of the niche. That would require
chiseling out notches in the concrete that the adapter ears would slip
into, and drilling through the
niche wall from the inside to screw into the threaded holes in the
adapter.
I know for sure his method won't work, but I'm not sure mine will
either.
Any thoughts on how to proceed?
Or, does anyone know where to get the old 8" lights?
TIA
Ed
|
 
| |
Posted by Shopdog on November 8, 2006, 8:44 pm
What I gather is that it looks like the tabs SHOULD fit into the opening
then the new light fixture should attach to the new bezel. But what would
hold the tabs in place? Is the hole too small for the tabs, if so by how
much?
Searcher
|
|
Posted by Ed on November 8, 2006, 11:23 pm
Searcher,
That's what the electrician thinks too, but the diameter of the niche
is
quite a bit too small to accept the OD of the mounting tabs. However,
when I hold the adaptor up to the niche it looks like the ID of the
tabs
might fit the OD of the niche.
Let me explain that a little better. I'm handicapped by not being able
to make
accurate measurements without tumbling into the pool.
The niche is kind of like a can made of stainless
steel or brass or something. The wall looks to be about 1/16" or
0.090" or so.
Lets say the ID of the can is 8", so the OD is about 8.2". The adaptor
tabs are equally spaced around the
circumference and are about 1/4" thick. It looks like the circle
defined by the
inside of the tabs is about 8 1/4", i.e., about the same as the OD of
the can. The circle
defined by the outside of the tabs is about 8 3/4".
The electrician thinks the adapter is held in place by screws that go
radially outward, biting into
the inner wall of the niche can much like a set screw. The holes in
the tabs are threaded, so
that would work if the ID of the niche can was large enough, but there
is no way that can happen.
My theory is the tabs are supposed to fit OVER the niche can rather
than into it. The screws would
then go through holes drilled through the can. As I said, this would
require breaking concrete at 3 places
around the niche can to accept the tabs.
Ed
> What I gather is that it looks like the tabs SHOULD fit into the
> opening then the new light fixture should attach to the new bezel.
> But what would hold the tabs in place? Is the hole too small for
> the tabs, if so by how much?
>
> Searcher
>
>
>
|
|
Posted by Richard J Kinch on November 9, 2006, 4:15 am
Ed writes:
> Any thoughts on how to proceed?
Is it possible the adapter fits over the old niche like you suspect, and
you're supposed to plaster over the edges? Not clear how you're getting a
larger size fitted to something smaller otherwise.
> Or, does anyone know where to get the old 8" lights?
What was wrong with the old ones that couldn't be repaired?
|
|
Posted by Ed on November 9, 2006, 9:30 am
Richard,
Thanks for the reply.
To answer your questions, the adaptor is designed to position the
light outward an
inch or so from the wall of the pool. Since the back of the light is
tapered,
its diameter at the entrance to the niche is smaller. You are right,
the cavities
that are chiseled out of the concrete (plaster?) to accept the adaptor
mounting tabs
would have to be filled in afterwards.
The lights are made with a long cord to reach to a junction box.
Originally, our junction box
was flush with the deck about 12' back. Newer electric codes don't
allow a junction box to
be mounted flush with the deck, so we now have to put the junction box
at the cabana 40'
away. So, we needed a new light. Also, ours had been in service for at
least 15 years.
Ed
> Ed writes:
>
>> Any thoughts on how to proceed?
>
> Is it possible the adapter fits over the old niche like you suspect,
> and
> you're supposed to plaster over the edges? Not clear how you're
> getting a
> larger size fitted to something smaller otherwise.
>
>> Or, does anyone know where to get the old 8" lights?
>
> What was wrong with the old ones that couldn't be repaired?
>
|
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 > last >>
| Similar Threads | Posted | | Pool light bulb any different than regular light bulb? | September 2, 2007, 9:24 pm |
| pool light GFCI | July 27, 2005, 12:44 pm |
| Pool light recommendations | June 2, 2006, 5:58 pm |
| Pool light replacement | October 23, 2006, 1:35 pm |
| Pool light grounding | July 23, 2008, 10:22 am |
| Re: Swimming pool light - electricians? | July 21, 2008, 12:09 pm |
| Re: Swimming pool light - electricians? | July 21, 2008, 12:32 am |
| Re: Swimming pool light - electricians? | August 4, 2008, 9:29 am |
| Replace underwater pool light bulb- Safe ? | October 21, 2006, 9:57 am |
| Hayward comfortzone inground pool heater - pilot won't light | May 19, 2007, 4:47 pm |
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap