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Subject Author Date
Pool plumbing pressure test Ed 10-27-2006
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Posted by on October 28, 2006, 12:30 pm



>Thanks for snagging that reply....in my experience pH is the most
>important factor for preventing copper corrosion

pH may be the most important one for just about anything pool related.
If the pH is too low it attacks all the parts of the pool (pool
finish, equipment etc) If it is too high the chlorine won't work
right. pH is also the thing that makes your skin and eyes burn. Once
you get the routine down it is fairly easy to keep a pool balanced but
you need to test often and make small changes over time until you
figure out what you need. Trying to fix something too fast will only
start a chemical war that usually results in dumping the pool and
starting over. Just remember this is thousands of gallons of water. It
takes time to see the result of what you dumped in and once you put
something in there you can't get it back out. Use less than the
predicted dose, wait a half day, pump running and add the more if you
need to.

PexSupply QuikTrak 468x60
Posted by BobK207 on October 27, 2006, 6:12 pm



Ed wrote:
> >
> > He should a leak test with WATER pressurized to slightly above
> > maximum
> > operating pressure of the system
> >
> > btw the skimmer lines are under vacuum....they suck, they're
> > upstream
> > of the pump
> >
> > Pressurizing with air can miss small leaks but its better than no
> > test
> > at all.
> >
> > What material is the piping? I'm not a huge fan of high air
> > pressures
> > in PVC.
> >
>
> Thanks, Bob. The lines are copper. They look to be in good shape,
> i.e., inside is clean and not pitted.
> I was glad to see that because the guy tried to sell us on ripping it
> all out, saying that the chemistry of
> pool water can leach out copper, so the expected life was 25-30 years.
>
> Ed

Ed-

My parents pool has copper plumbing (original from 1959 OC SoCal)
still in good shape...as long the water chemistry is properly
maintained copper will last a LONG time.

This installation is approaching 50 years.

Soil conditons will have an effect.

If they had to to any repairs they should have used at least Type L
(medium wall) preferably Type K

On the other hand my house a few blocks away had copper pool plumbing
that is the same vintage but the house had several owners over the
years & pool water chemistry must not have been maintained as well.

No failures but some sections were kinda nasty looking (exterior)
....maybe from storing chems near the filter & attendant plumbing.

cheers
Bob


Posted by on October 27, 2006, 12:29 pm


On Fri, 27 Oct 2006 15:29:21 GMT, "Ed"

>We are replacing the concrete deck surrounding our community swimming
>pool. A
>contractor we hired to replace the skimmers wants to do a pressure
>test on the
>plumbing that recirculates the water through the pool. It sounds like
>a good idea
>to find any leaks while the lines are accessible, but I'm a little
>concerned about
>damaging something if he tests at too high a pressure.
>
>Any thoughts?
>
>TIA
>
>Ed

That is usually code to pressure test a new pool. They cap the pipes
and put around 30-40 PSI on it and let it sit overnight. If it is
still holding pressure it should be OK.

Posted by Ed on October 27, 2006, 1:56 pm



>
> That is usually code to pressure test a new pool. They cap the pipes
> and put around 30-40 PSI on it and let it sit overnight. If it is
> still holding pressure it should be OK.

Thanks. Now I'll seem like an expert when I talk to them :-)

Ed




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