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Portable drill John Lynch 09-07-2006
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Posted by John Lynch on September 7, 2006, 4:35 pm
After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to buy a
portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what? Sears has
one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts. It doesn't
mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.

Any advice would be appreciated.

John



AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc.
Posted by badgolferman on September 7, 2006, 4:48 pm
John Lynch, 9/7/2006,4:35:38 PM, wrote:

> After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to
> buy a portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what?
> Sears has one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts.
> It doesn't mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> John

I have a Ryobi 14.4 drill that came with two batteries, charger and a
flashlight that was ~ $50. I am not a heavy user and it works great
for me. My recommendation is to make sure you get two batteries. You
don't want to wait for the other one two charge while you're building a
deck or something. You may want to make sure it has the new battery
type NiMh or something like that.

Posted by Larry Jaques on September 8, 2006, 12:14 am
On Thu, 7 Sep 2006 16:48:58 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm,

>John Lynch, 9/7/2006,4:35:38 PM, wrote:
>
>> After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to
>> buy a portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what?
>> Sears has one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts.
>> It doesn't mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.
>>
>> Any advice would be appreciated.
>>
>> John
>
>I have a Ryobi 14.4 drill that came with two batteries, charger and a
>flashlight that was ~ $50. I am not a heavy user and it works great
>for me. My recommendation is to make sure you get two batteries. You
>don't want to wait for the other one two charge while you're building a
>deck or something. You may want to make sure it has the new battery
>type NiMh or something like that.

I also have a Ryobi 14.4 and likee it. The old Skil 9.6v is still
working for small drilling jobs, too, but the next one I buy is going
to be a Bosch Impactor 14.4. They're extremely good for driving long
deck screws in without even THINKING of stripping out the philips or
square drive. Bosch is well made, lightweight, and shorter than most.
It should fit where others wouldn't. I could pay $139 for the Ryobi
impactor clone or about $200 for the Bosch kit. They'll be on sale
next month when the Team Bosch show comes through town and I'll be on
'em like a hound in heat. <g> They usually have $40 off coupons and
the kits go for $243.

Try one out. You'll never think of your old rotary-only drills in the
same way again. Just don't let your wife try it. You'll end up needing
two.


--
STOP LIVING LIKE VEAL
-----------------------
http://diversify.com Veal-free Websites

Posted by Greg Guarino on September 8, 2006, 12:01 pm
On Thu, 07 Sep 2006 21:14:16 -0700, Larry Jaques


>
>Try one out. You'll never think of your old rotary-only drills in the
>same way again.

I think that no tool is optimally suited for every job. I have an
older Ryobi 12V that I still really like. It's really well-balanced in
the hand. The first set of batteries lasted about 4 years.

I also have a Ryobi 18V (I got it when it was about the same price as
replacing the 12V batteries, then I found 12v batteries for much less,
so now I have 2 cordless drills). I don't think these batteries last
quite as long, and the drill is heavier, but it does have more power.
The extra power is seldom necessary. I keep the 12v in the house and
the 18v in the garage. Sometimes I use both (drill bit on one,
phillips bit on the other)

For drilling through the walls and floors of my (brick) house I have a
Makita corded hammer drill. I don't usually put the second handle on,
which means that at some point I'll be posting here (typing with my
left hand) that the second handle is necessary to prevent wrist
injury. It's very powerful and the hammer feature really makes short
work of drilling through masonry. But I don't like it for driving
screws. It's designed to work at higher RPMs and I find the trigger
too sensitive to get the lower speeds you want for driving screws.

I also have a couple of older corded drills, a Skil and B&D. I find
these handy for really questionable work like wire-brushing and
anything else that's likely to gum up, heat up or jam up the tool.

I think that if I had no drills at all, I'd buy a 14.4 volt cordless
and the Makita Hammer Drill.

>Just don't let your wife try it. You'll end up needing
>two.

I had to read this twice before I "got" it. Or is my mind just in the
gutter?

Greg Guarino



Posted by Goedjn on September 7, 2006, 5:13 pm
On Thu, 7 Sep 2006 16:35:38 -0400, "John Lynch"

>After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to buy a
>portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what? Sears has
>one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts. It doesn't
>mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.
>
>Any advice would be appreciated.

Doesn't that sort of depend on what you need the drill for?
I mean, Mine is a hand-powered bit-brace.

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