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Pouring Concrete Over Concret?

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Pouring Concrete Over Concret? Alan 01-21-2007
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Posted by BobK207 on January 21, 2007, 10:56 pm



Mike Ryan wrote:
>
> >Hi,
> >
> >I have a old horse barn that has a floor that is part dirt (where the
> >stables used to be) and part concrete. The problem it is not half and
> >half, it is mixed and in places the concrete is cracked and broken.
> >
> >I want a full slab in the barn to turn it into a shop. However, I
> >don't want to go through the problem and costs of digging up all the
> >existing concrete before I pour new. I am also wanting to put in
> >radiant floor heating.
> >
> >So is there any process that works for pouring new concrete over old
> >concrete and having it still adher and be able to take weight of things
> >like tools or even a car?
> >
> >Thanks.
> >
> >Alan
>
> I would think that if you poured a full thickness 4 inch (or thicker)
> slab over the whole thing, it should not matter what is under it, as
> long as the old concrete is relatively solid. The problem is whether
> the different sections of concrete will allow for getting the whole
> floor level. If one section is 6 inches higher than the other, you
> may have problems. But if they are all about the same, just pour over
> all of it. That old concrete will just add to the strength of the
> floor, and you dont really need to adhere the new concrete to it, if
> you do a full thickness pour.
>
> I'm no concrete expert, but I have poured some walks and a few garage
> and shed floors over the years., and I actually did pour one shed
> floor over and an existing shed slab, which was a smaller shed, so the
> old floor is only under part of the new one. In the new section I
> added some broken chunks of concrete under the new floor so I could
> get rid of them. The floor is solid and I never had any problems with
> it. I do not drive on it though, it's just a work shed and woodshed
> combo.

Where is the project located?

If you're located where you need heat, I would suggest removing the old
concrete & doing the whole this right.

W/o proper insulation you'll be heating the earth as well as the shop.

Might consider a wood stove or a gas fired blower.

How many sq ft of old concrete are we talking about 200? 500?

500 sq ft is only about 5 yds not a huge task to remove. IMO remove
the old stuff it will be easier to work on a clean pallet rather than
piecing the floor together.

How good do you want the new floor to be? How long do you want the new
floor to last?

Any vehicle traffic on the new floor? HEAVY (1000's of #'s)
machines?

How long was the horse barn a horse barn? Animal urine in the dirt
can give new concrete problems.....investigate sulfate attack of
concrete.

If you want the new floor to perform well you need a good base.

Do you have a concrete disposal (grinder) site near by? Your old floor
can be your base material.


cheers
Bob


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Posted by hallerb@aol.com on January 21, 2007, 10:59 pm


if your going to drive on it, then rip out all the old concrete and
start over. otherwise its guaranteed to crack, plus you need a good
base with all topsoil removed and several inches of gravel under
everything and ideally a vapor barrier to keep out moisture. if your
converting to a shop radiant floor heating is a good option.

a halfway patch job will long term just waste money


Posted by hallerb@aol.com on January 21, 2007, 11:06 pm




rent a bobcat to do the heavy work, kinda fun and saves lots of back
breaking work


Posted by Steve Barker on January 21, 2007, 11:45 pm


Having just completed a slab with radiant tubing in it, I HIGHLY recommend
you remove all the old concrete and do it up properly. Since you won't be
able to saw control into the slab, you'll want 1/2" rebar on 2' centers in
both directions to minimize cracking. I would hesitate pouring the slab if
freezing weather is in the forecast within 2 weeks of the pour. If you can
get your radiant system up and running before the slab freezes, then all the
better. No chance of heaving. Be sure to insulate under the rebar, and
put the tubing on top of it. You'll need a flatwork crew familiar with the
tubing process, and at least a 5" slab. This way they can still pull the
rebar up near the center of the slab and still have ample concrete on top of
the tubing.

--
Steve Barker


> Hi,
>
> I have a old horse barn that has a floor that is part dirt (where the
> stables used to be) and part concrete. The problem it is not half and
> half, it is mixed and in places the concrete is cracked and broken.
>
> I want a full slab in the barn to turn it into a shop. However, I
> don't want to go through the problem and costs of digging up all the
> existing concrete before I pour new. I am also wanting to put in
> radiant floor heating.
>
> So is there any process that works for pouring new concrete over old
> concrete and having it still adher and be able to take weight of things
> like tools or even a car?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Alan
>



Posted by on January 22, 2007, 9:10 am


Remove all the old concrete first.


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