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Pouring cement on an angle

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Pouring cement on an angle maradcliff 12-13-2006
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Posted by on December 13, 2006, 9:30 am


I have done a fair amount of cement work over the years. Mostly flat
areas or very slightly pitched. But I have a section of grass between
two poured slabs that gets pretty muddy at times and it leads to my
barn, so I am always walking there. I want to pour a sidewalk in
there, but leave part of it grass. It's only about 8 or 9 feet long,
but it drops about 10 inches in this span. Because I will
occasionally lead a horse thru there, I'd prefer not to make a step,
not to mention I often walk out there at night and it's pretty dark
back there and I know I will trip on it unless I am always carrying a
flashlight (and half the time I cant find them). So, I'd prefer to
just follow the slope of the soil thats there now. The problem is
this: If I pour a slab with that amount of slope, wont the cement all
pool to the lower end of the slope? Should I just keep working it
back up until it begins to set, or should I put 2x4s every 3 feet
until it sets and then pull them out and fill in the gaps? Whats the
best way to do this?

One other thing. I dont want this cement smooth, or it will become
real slippery in winter when it ices over. I know the trick to run a
coarse broom over it after its set, but I think that is still not
rought enough. How can I make it rougher? No, I dont want to pour it
and not trowel it, leaving all the stones exposed. Thats too rough.
I was wondering about troweling it and pulling a leaf rake across it,
or something like that, Something that would make an "X" pattern
would be ideal. I guess the roughness should be similar to the side
of a concrete block.

Then too, there's another thought. Would I be better off using patio
blocks? (I mean the 4" thick, not the 2" which crack too easily esp
if a horse walks on them. I'm not sure how well they would work on a
slope like that ???

Thanks

Mark

Posted by on December 13, 2006, 10:01 am


Make your soup with far less water than you would use so it is stiff
and needs to be really pounded into the forms and it won't go rolling
down the hill after you trowell the surface sweep it with a broom.
maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
> I have done a fair amount of cement work over the years. Mostly flat
> areas or very slightly pitched. But I have a section of grass between
> two poured slabs that gets pretty muddy at times and it leads to my
> barn, so I am always walking there. I want to pour a sidewalk in
> there, but leave part of it grass. It's only about 8 or 9 feet long,
> but it drops about 10 inches in this span. Because I will
> occasionally lead a horse thru there, I'd prefer not to make a step,
> not to mention I often walk out there at night and it's pretty dark
> back there and I know I will trip on it unless I am always carrying a
> flashlight (and half the time I cant find them). So, I'd prefer to
> just follow the slope of the soil thats there now. The problem is
> this: If I pour a slab with that amount of slope, wont the cement all
> pool to the lower end of the slope? Should I just keep working it
> back up until it begins to set, or should I put 2x4s every 3 feet
> until it sets and then pull them out and fill in the gaps? Whats the
> best way to do this?
>
> One other thing. I dont want this cement smooth, or it will become
> real slippery in winter when it ices over. I know the trick to run a
> coarse broom over it after its set, but I think that is still not
> rought enough. How can I make it rougher? No, I dont want to pour it
> and not trowel it, leaving all the stones exposed. Thats too rough.
> I was wondering about troweling it and pulling a leaf rake across it,
> or something like that, Something that would make an "X" pattern
> would be ideal. I guess the roughness should be similar to the side
> of a concrete block.
>
> Then too, there's another thought. Would I be better off using patio
> blocks? (I mean the 4" thick, not the 2" which crack too easily esp
> if a horse walks on them. I'm not sure how well they would work on a
> slope like that ???
>
> Thanks
>
> Mark


Posted by bill allemann on December 13, 2006, 10:15 am


As far as the slope, a fairly dry mix will not present a problem. If you
are getting delivery of redimix, let them know.
If you are mixing on site, make it dryer than you think it should be and
it will probably be fine.
You might check with the local material yard and see if they rent
the forms for imprinting brick joints in the surface. You could
make one if you have a welder.
For doing this process, you'd probably want to
pour small sections.



Posted by Andy on December 13, 2006, 11:17 am


Andy writes:
Well, for 8 feet long and , maybe, 4 feet wide, a single sheet
of OSB nailed to the top of the side forms would make a good
top of a mold....

This may be more trouble than it's worth, and I really go for
the idea presented of have a really stiff mix and just working it
till it starts to set.... HOWEVER.... if you pour cement into a mold
and wait till it firms up and then remove the top and trowel it, that
might work also....

I found the answers here very interesting as I have wondered
about the same problem.....

Up to now, I have just put down black plastic and about 6 inches
of gravel or base rock. It works really well, is cheap, and easy
to maintain.....

Just my two cents worth,,

Andy in Eureka, Texas


Posted by EXT on December 13, 2006, 11:37 am


If your concrete (not cement) is running down a 10 inch incline in 9 feet,
you have WAY too much water in the mix. Unlike the stupid scenes in the
movies where concrete is as watery as soup, concrete should be stiff and be
difficult to spread. Too much water makes concrete weak, crumbly, easy to
wear down and subject to a lot of cracking. Think of Gunite, where they
spray concrete on vertical surfaces such as pools, and it stays there. If it
was even slightly watery it would slide down to the bottom.

>I have done a fair amount of cement work over the years. Mostly flat
> areas or very slightly pitched. But I have a section of grass between
> two poured slabs that gets pretty muddy at times and it leads to my
> barn, so I am always walking there. I want to pour a sidewalk in
> there, but leave part of it grass. It's only about 8 or 9 feet long,
> but it drops about 10 inches in this span. Because I will
> occasionally lead a horse thru there, I'd prefer not to make a step,
> not to mention I often walk out there at night and it's pretty dark
> back there and I know I will trip on it unless I am always carrying a
> flashlight (and half the time I cant find them). So, I'd prefer to
> just follow the slope of the soil thats there now. The problem is
> this: If I pour a slab with that amount of slope, wont the cement all
> pool to the lower end of the slope? Should I just keep working it
> back up until it begins to set, or should I put 2x4s every 3 feet
> until it sets and then pull them out and fill in the gaps? Whats the
> best way to do this?
>
> One other thing. I dont want this cement smooth, or it will become
> real slippery in winter when it ices over. I know the trick to run a
> coarse broom over it after its set, but I think that is still not
> rought enough. How can I make it rougher? No, I dont want to pour it
> and not trowel it, leaving all the stones exposed. Thats too rough.
> I was wondering about troweling it and pulling a leaf rake across it,
> or something like that, Something that would make an "X" pattern
> would be ideal. I guess the roughness should be similar to the side
> of a concrete block.
>
> Then too, there's another thought. Would I be better off using patio
> blocks? (I mean the 4" thick, not the 2" which crack too easily esp
> if a horse walks on them. I'm not sure how well they would work on a
> slope like that ???
>
> Thanks
>
> Mark



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