If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by on December 13, 2006, 1:20 pm
On Wed, 13 Dec 2006 11:37:58 -0500, "EXT"
>If your concrete (not cement) is running down a 10 inch incline in 9 feet,
>you have WAY too much water in the mix. Unlike the stupid scenes in the
>movies where concrete is as watery as soup, concrete should be stiff and be
>difficult to spread. Too much water makes concrete weak, crumbly, easy to
>wear down and subject to a lot of cracking.
Exactly right. Even at a "5" slump, about as wet as you would ever use
for anything, you can hold any slope you would want to walk on.
|
 
| |
Posted by Goedjn on December 13, 2006, 12:01 pm
On Wed, 13 Dec 2006 08:30:47 -0600, maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
>I have done a fair amount of cement work over the years. Mostly flat
>areas or very slightly pitched. But I have a section of grass between
>two poured slabs that gets pretty muddy at times and it leads to my
>barn, so I am always walking there. I want to pour a sidewalk in
>there, but leave part of it grass. It's only about 8 or 9 feet long,
>but it drops about 10 inches in this span. Because I will
If you cover that area with an impermeable surface, you're
likely to end up just moving the mudhole to the lower
edge of it. I think you'd be better off plowing out the topsoil,
and replacing it driveway gravel. And maybe laying some drain
tile.
|
|
Posted by bill allemann on December 13, 2006, 1:05 pm
another concrete alternative:
you could spread a thin layer of small gravel over the problem area. Grass
will grow up through it. Add more from time to time until the muddiness
finally goes away. You can get a pretty firm base built up (as far as foot
traffic anyway) that grass will tolerate just fine.
I have a parking area that's covered with pea gravel and my truck sits fine
on it all year, and it looks like the rest of the lawn.
|
|
Posted by John Hines on December 13, 2006, 1:16 pm
maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
>One other thing. I dont want this cement smooth, or it will become
>real slippery in winter when it ices over. I know the trick to run a
>coarse broom over it after its set, but I think that is still not
>rought enough. How can I make it rougher?
Around here, they press an expanded piece of metal into the concrete at
sidewalks where they slope down to the street. This leaves a diamond
grid pattern, which is deeper than brooming the concrete.
I'd think you could find such a beast at a supply store or maybe a tool
rental place.
>No, I dont want to pour it and not trowel it, leaving all the stones exposed.
Exposed aggregate concrete is done by washing the top layer of concrete
off, after trowling and finishing. A smaller, decorative aggregate is
used, its like large pea gravel. (I got to watch a big patio being made
this way.
--
Silly sig to prevent isp ad
|
|
Posted by minder on December 13, 2006, 9:15 pm
if you drive around and look at driveways, you can see, some are done
really steep, you should be fine
|
Page 2 of 2 << first < 1 2
| Similar Threads | Posted | | Recipricating saw or angle grinder to cut cement board? | February 2, 2008, 11:09 pm |
| Pouring concrete | July 23, 2006, 4:46 am |
| Cement Backer Board on Cement Subfloor? | December 5, 2005, 4:01 pm |
| Pouring a concrete slab | September 3, 2006, 8:13 am |
| Pouring Concrete Over Concret? | January 21, 2007, 9:36 pm |
| Pouring a concrete carport slab in NH | August 10, 2005, 6:46 am |
| Pouring concrete floor, HF mixers | April 15, 2006, 12:24 am |
| Need opinions about what to do about slag after pouring concrete | June 12, 2006, 6:26 pm |
| Pouring concrete into a tight space | November 1, 2008, 8:57 pm |
| Cost of digging out and pouring basement floor. | June 28, 2006, 3:32 pm |
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap