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Posted by Dave on August 8, 2005, 5:50 pm
I bought a new table saw and I can run it on 120 or 220, However, they
recommend 220. What does running it on 220 buy me over 120? Thanks for your
opinions.
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Posted by SQLit on August 8, 2005, 11:43 am
> I bought a new table saw and I can run it on 120 or 220, However, they
> recommend 220. What does running it on 220 buy me over 120? Thanks for
your
> opinions.
The 240v installation will cost ya more. You will need a motor starter if
one is not supplied. It is always a good idea to have overloads in the motor
starter. Lots of manufactures make a "manual motor starters" Get one that
fits your situation.
http://www.cse-distributors.co.uk/controlgear/abb_manual_motor_starter.htm
Or you can spend more money and get an electrically operated one.
I have a delta saw that draw almost 15 amps under load (120v). I have not
converted over, just lazy and I use it off the genny every once and a while.
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Posted by Mortimer Schnerd, RN on August 8, 2005, 6:51 pm
SQLit wrote:
>> I bought a new table saw and I can run it on 120 or 220, However, they
>> recommend 220. What does running it on 220 buy me over 120? Thanks for your
>> opinions.
>
> The 240v installation will cost ya more. You will need a motor starter if
> one is not supplied. It is always a good idea to have overloads in the motor
> starter. Lots of manufactures make a "manual motor starters" Get one that
> fits your situation.
Some advantages: you won't blow the circuit breaker for the rest of the house
and your lights won't go off if you bog down. You can choose to run a dust
collector at either 110 or 220. If both are 110, you'll probably pop the
circuit breaker when you start both up.
I've got my jointer and bandsaw on 220. My table saw and dust collector are on
a special 30 amp 110V circuit but now I wish they were on 220 as well.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerd@carolina.rr.com.REMOVE
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Posted by Chris Lewis on August 8, 2005, 7:08 pm
>
> > I bought a new table saw and I can run it on 120 or 220, However, they
> > recommend 220. What does running it on 220 buy me over 120? Thanks for
> your
> > opinions.
> The 240v installation will cost ya more. You will need a motor starter if
> one is not supplied. It is always a good idea to have overloads in the motor
> starter. Lots of manufactures make a "manual motor starters" Get one that
> fits your situation.
If you don't need one for 120v, you won't need one for the same motor wired for
240v.
"Magnetic starters" aren't really "motor starters" per-se. The basic purpose
is as a safety measure to not have the tool come back on after a power failure
is restored. They are essentially nothing more than a relay wired so that
a momentary pushbutton switch activates the coil, and if you lose power, the
coil
stays deenergized after the power is restored. It won't turn back on until
you push the button again.
Some "starters" (like the ones SQLit was referencing) contain additional
thermal/current overload protection. But those are generally only necessary
for motors that don't already have thermal overload buttons on them.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
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Posted by SQLit on August 8, 2005, 1:25 pm
snipped----------------------------------
> "Magnetic starters" aren't really "motor starters" per-se.
Magnetic starters ARE motor starters. They do contain over load protection.
Contactors on the other hand are like what you say, "aren't really "motor
starters" per-se. "
Because they do not have overload protection just contacts.
Minor but important point to the less informed.
The basic purpose
> is as a safety measure to not have the tool come back on after a power
failure
> is restored. They are essentially nothing more than a relay wired so that
> a momentary pushbutton switch activates the coil, and if you lose power,
the coil
> stays deenergized after the power is restored. It won't turn back on
until
> you push the button again.
---------------snipped
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