Problem with well not delivering water - Page 5

> This weekend we did a shock on our ~350' well to address some iron
> bacteria issues. Followed instructions carefully, adding measured
> amount of bleach and recirculating well water via garden hose back
> into the well head. Then we ran each faucet slightly untilI we could
> smell chlorine, turned it off, turned off the well circuit, and let it
> sit for the night.
> The rest of the process was to run things out via hose the next
> morning, so as to not compromise our septic system. However, when I
> got up, I found that our pressure tank showed 0 psi. When I turn on
> the well circuit, I can hear the pump humming, but no water gets
> delivered to the pressure tank.
> I took off the well cap again and powered the well circuit. I can
> hear "activity" in the well, not just the distant vibration or hum.
> With the echos and such, it is impossible to tell what that sound
> really is.
> It seems to me that somehow I have lost the seal prime on my well pump
> (or have a hole in the delivery pipe) that is preventing the water
> from being delivered. Anybody know of a way to diagnose this issue
> without special equipment? I believe the pump is at least 300' deep,a
> nd has worked flawlessly for years.

> > This weekend we did a shock on our ~350' well to address some iron
> > bacteria issues. Followed instructions carefully, adding measured
> > amount of bleach and recirculating well water via garden hose back
> > into the well head. Then we ran each faucet slightly untilI we could
> > smell chlorine, turned it off, turned off the well circuit, and let it
> > sit for the night.
> > The rest of the process was to run things out via hose the next
> > morning, so as to not compromise our septic system. However, when I
> > got up, I found that our pressure tank showed 0 psi. When I turn on
> > the well circuit, I can hear the pump humming, but no water gets
> > delivered to the pressure tank.
> > I took off the well cap again and powered the well circuit. I can
> > hear "activity" in the well, not just the distant vibration or hum.
> > With the echos and such, it is impossible to tell what that sound
> > really is.
> > It seems to me that somehow I have lost the seal prime on my well pump
> > (or have a hole in the delivery pipe) that is preventing the water
> > from being delivered. Anybody know of a way to diagnose this issue
> > without special equipment? I believe the pump is at least 300' deep,a
> > nd has worked flawlessly for years.
> Thanks all for the good input. =A0I appreciate knowing something about
> the possibilities when I finally reach the well contractor. =A0I have a
> couple of calls in to him, but it is a small town rural area and he
> doesn't seem to be getting his calls. =A0Possibly he has gone hunting
> and did not leave an "out of office" message. =A0It is a weekend place,
> so service calls mean time off work, yada yada.
> To clarify a few items:
> 1 - I first suspected the mechainical relay in the pressure switch. =A0I
> opened the box and cleaned the contacts. =A0They seem to be working
> fine, at least they are getting the pump turned on.
> 2 - I did check the power at the well head. =A0I did not have a voltage
> meter, but used a simple outlet tester (pencil style chirper) to
> determine there was juice in the line. =A0If somehow only 110/120 was
> getting down to the pump, is it possible it would only pump partway up
> the piping?

> 3 - We have high iron content in the water (partial reason for the
> treatment). =A0I wondered if there had been a small leak in the steel
> pipe (yes it is steel, at least the top few sections that I have seen)
> that might have been plugged with oxidized iron. =A0Perhaps the bleach
> then dissolved or loosened the "plug" enough to cause it to open?

> 4 - To the responder that concluded the pump is shot... I guess
> anything is possible, but when my car doesn't start I don't
> immediately shop for a new car ;-)
> 5 - I was having a tough time figuring out how the pressure could have
> gone to zero in our system - at least a reason associated with the
> well failure. =A0Sounds like the two events need to be researched
> separately. =A0As for the valve that prevents the water from flowing bck
> from the pressure tank to the well - is that something I can access
> and check myself? 'Fraid I have no clue about that unless it is
> integrated into the pressure tank?

> 6 - to the person who asked about the strength of the bleach used: =A0We
> used a standard 5.5% product, mixed with water. =A0According to our well
> report we have about 200' of water in a 6" column, and we used 8 cups
> of bleach. =A0I guess that could be an overdose if the water level had
> dropped, but I have no reason to suspect that is the case.

> Thanks again
> Does the pump have a control box, or is it a 2 wire pump? Is there anythi=
> that would indicate if the pump is 120 or 240 volts? If you have galvaniz=
> piping down the well, it's possible that it rotted and broke, but I still
> don't see anything that you did that would have caused it to happen. Ther=
> may be a check valve before the pressure tank, and one or more down in th=
> well- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

> > > This weekend we did a shock on our ~350' well to address some iron
> > > bacteria issues. Followed instructions carefully, adding measured
> > > amount of bleach and recirculating well water via garden hose back
> > > into the well head. Then we ran each faucet slightly untilI we could
> > > smell chlorine, turned it off, turned off the well circuit, and let i=
> > > sit for the night.
> > > The rest of the process was to run things out via hose the next
> > > morning, so as to not compromise our septic system. However, when I
> > > got up, I found that our pressure tank showed 0 psi. When I turn on
> > > the well circuit, I can hear the pump humming, but no water gets
> > > delivered to the pressure tank.
> > > I took off the well cap again and powered the well circuit. I can
> > > hear "activity" in the well, not just the distant vibration or hum.
> > > With the echos and such, it is impossible to tell what that sound
> > > really is.
> > > It seems to me that somehow I have lost the seal prime on my well pum=
> > > (or have a hole in the delivery pipe) that is preventing the water
> > > from being delivered. Anybody know of a way to diagnose this issue
> > > without special equipment? I believe the pump is at least 300' deep,a
> > > nd has worked flawlessly for years.
> > Thanks all for the good input. =A0I appreciate knowing something about
> > the possibilities when I finally reach the well contractor. =A0I have a
> > couple of calls in to him, but it is a small town rural area and he
> > doesn't seem to be getting his calls. =A0Possibly he has gone hunting
> > and did not leave an "out of office" message. =A0It is a weekend place,
> > so service calls mean time off work, yada yada.
> > To clarify a few items:
> > 1 - I first suspected the mechainical relay in the pressure switch. =A0=
> > opened the box and cleaned the contacts. =A0They seem to be working
> > fine, at least they are getting the pump turned on.
> > 2 - I did check the power at the well head. =A0I did not have a voltage
> > meter, but used a simple outlet tester (pencil style chirper) to
> > determine there was juice in the line. =A0If somehow only 110/120 was
> > getting down to the pump, is it possible it would only pump partway up
> > the piping?
> If i'ts a 240V pump, which it almost certainly is for this
> application, there is no way it could be getting 120V. =A0The pump runs
> off two out of phase hot legs that give 240V and there is no neutral.
> I'd go buy a VOM. =A0You can get cheap basic ones for $15 at radio shack
> or many tool places, home centers, Sears, etc. =A0If it's a 2 wire plus
> ground 240V pump and you have 240V at the wires going down the well,
> then you know it's time to pull the pump.
> > 3 - We have high iron content in the water (partial reason for the
> > treatment). =A0I wondered if there had been a small leak in the steel
> > pipe (yes it is steel, at least the top few sections that I have seen)
> > that might have been plugged with oxidized iron. =A0Perhaps the bleach
> > then dissolved or loosened the "plug" enough to cause it to open?
> Considering the symptoms and sequence of events, that would explain
> things. =A0 However what the probability of that actually happening and
> opening a hole sufficient to result in no water, I don't know, but
> would think it would be low.
> It's also possible the chlorine attacked the electrical system at some
> point, ie, got into the motor, causing resistance in a connection,
> etc.
> > 4 - To the responder that concluded the pump is shot... I guess
> > anything is possible, but when my car doesn't start I don't
> > immediately shop for a new car ;-)
> > 5 - I was having a tough time figuring out how the pressure could have
> > gone to zero in our system - at least a reason associated with the
> > well failure. =A0Sounds like the two events need to be researched
> > separately. =A0As for the valve that prevents the water from flowing bc=
> > from the pressure tank to the well - is that something I can access
> > and check myself? 'Fraid I have no clue about that unless it is
> > integrated into the pressure tank?
> Normally the check valve is located in the pump. =A0 =A0That;s why I said
> if the pressure went to 0 overnight without any water usage, it's a
> strong indication that there is a leak in the well piping and such a
> leak would totally explain what you are seeing and hearing.
> > 6 - to the person who asked about the strength of the bleach used: =A0W=
> > used a standard 5.5% product, mixed with water. =A0According to our wel=
> > report we have about 200' of water in a 6" column, and we used 8 cups
> > of bleach. =A0I guess that could be an overdose if the water level had
> > dropped, but I have no reason to suspect that is the case.
> Doesn't seem like a lot of bleach. =A0 I strongly suspect that you're
> going to find that whatever happened, it was destined to happen pretty
> soon anyway. =A0 The bleach may have only accelerated it. =A0 It might
> actually be a good thing, because if something is corroded, you may
> have found it sooner, before the pipe breaks off from the pump, etc.
> > Thanks again
> > Does the pump have a control box, or is it a 2 wire pump? Is there anyt=

> > that would indicate if the pump is 120 or 240 volts? If you have galvan=

> > piping down the well, it's possible that it rotted and broke, but I sti=
> > don't see anything that you did that would have caused it to happen. Th=

> > may be a check valve before the pressure tank, and one or more down in =

> > well- Hide quoted text -
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

> > > This weekend we did a shock on our ~350' well to address some iron
> > > bacteria issues. Followed instructions carefully, adding measured
> > > amount of bleach and recirculating well water via garden hose back
> > > into the well head. Then we ran each faucet slightly untilI we could
> > > smell chlorine, turned it off, turned off the well circuit, and let it
> > > sit for the night.
> > > The rest of the process was to run things out via hose the next
> > > morning, so as to not compromise our septic system. However, when I
> > > got up, I found that our pressure tank showed 0 psi. When I turn on
> > > the well circuit, I can hear the pump humming, but no water gets
> > > delivered to the pressure tank.
> > > I took off the well cap again and powered the well circuit. I can
> > > hear "activity" in the well, not just the distant vibration or hum.
> > > With the echos and such, it is impossible to tell what that sound
> > > really is.
> > > It seems to me that somehow I have lost the seal prime on my well pump
> > > (or have a hole in the delivery pipe) that is preventing the water
> > > from being delivered. Anybody know of a way to diagnose this issue
> > > without special equipment? I believe the pump is at least 300' deep,a
> > > nd has worked flawlessly for years.
> > Thanks all for the good input. I appreciate knowing something about
> > the possibilities when I finally reach the well contractor. I have a
> > couple of calls in to him, but it is a small town rural area and he
> > doesn't seem to be getting his calls. Possibly he has gone hunting
> > and did not leave an "out of office" message. It is a weekend place,
> > so service calls mean time off work, yada yada.
> > To clarify a few items:
> > 1 - I first suspected the mechainical relay in the pressure switch. I
> > opened the box and cleaned the contacts. They seem to be working
> > fine, at least they are getting the pump turned on.
> > 2 - I did check the power at the well head. I did not have a voltage
> > meter, but used a simple outlet tester (pencil style chirper) to
> > determine there was juice in the line. If somehow only 110/120 was
> > getting down to the pump, is it possible it would only pump partway up
> > the piping?
> If i'ts a 240V pump, which it almost certainly is for this
> application, there is no way it could be getting 120V. The pump runs
> off two out of phase hot legs that give 240V and there is no neutral.
> I'd go buy a VOM. You can get cheap basic ones for $15 at radio shack
> or many tool places, home centers, Sears, etc. If it's a 2 wire plus
> ground 240V pump and you have 240V at the wires going down the well,
> then you know it's time to pull the pump.
> > 3 - We have high iron content in the water (partial reason for the
> > treatment). I wondered if there had been a small leak in the steel
> > pipe (yes it is steel, at least the top few sections that I have seen)
> > that might have been plugged with oxidized iron. Perhaps the bleach
> > then dissolved or loosened the "plug" enough to cause it to open?
> Considering the symptoms and sequence of events, that would explain
> things. However what the probability of that actually happening and
> opening a hole sufficient to result in no water, I don't know, but
> would think it would be low.
> It's also possible the chlorine attacked the electrical system at some
> point, ie, got into the motor, causing resistance in a connection,
> etc.
> > 4 - To the responder that concluded the pump is shot... I guess
> > anything is possible, but when my car doesn't start I don't
> > immediately shop for a new car ;-)
> > 5 - I was having a tough time figuring out how the pressure could have
> > gone to zero in our system - at least a reason associated with the
> > well failure. Sounds like the two events need to be researched
> > separately. As for the valve that prevents the water from flowing bck
> > from the pressure tank to the well - is that something I can access
> > and check myself? 'Fraid I have no clue about that unless it is
> > integrated into the pressure tank?
> Normally the check valve is located in the pump. That;s why I said
> if the pressure went to 0 overnight without any water usage, it's a
> strong indication that there is a leak in the well piping and such a
> leak would totally explain what you are seeing and hearing.
> > 6 - to the person who asked about the strength of the bleach used: We
> > used a standard 5.5% product, mixed with water. According to our well
> > report we have about 200' of water in a 6" column, and we used 8 cups
> > of bleach. I guess that could be an overdose if the water level had
> > dropped, but I have no reason to suspect that is the case.
> Doesn't seem like a lot of bleach. I strongly suspect that you're
> going to find that whatever happened, it was destined to happen pretty
> soon anyway. The bleach may have only accelerated it. It might
> actually be a good thing, because if something is corroded, you may
> have found it sooner, before the pipe breaks off from the pump, etc.
> > Thanks again
> > Does the pump have a control box, or is it a 2 wire pump? Is there
> > anything
> > that would indicate if the pump is 120 or 240 volts? If you have
> > galvanized
> > piping down the well, it's possible that it rotted and broke, but I
> > still
> > don't see anything that you did that would have caused it to happen.
> > There
> > may be a check valve before the pressure tank, and one or more down in
> > the
> > well- Hide quoted text -
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

> On Oct 14, 5:20 am, trad...@optonline.net wrote:

> > > > This weekend we did a shock on our ~350' well to address some iron
> > > > bacteria issues. Followed instructions carefully, adding measured
> > > > amount of bleach and recirculating well water via garden hose back
> > > > into the well head. Then we ran each faucet slightly untilI we coul=
> > > > smell chlorine, turned it off, turned off the well circuit, and let=

> > > > sit for the night.
> > > > The rest of the process was to run things out via hose the next
> > > > morning, so as to not compromise our septic system. However, when I
> > > > got up, I found that our pressure tank showed 0 psi. When I turn on
> > > > the well circuit, I can hear the pump humming, but no water gets
> > > > delivered to the pressure tank.
> > > > I took off the well cap again and powered the well circuit. I can
> > > > hear "activity" in the well, not just the distant vibration or hum.
> > > > With the echos and such, it is impossible to tell what that sound
> > > > really is.
> > > > It seems to me that somehow I have lost the seal prime on my well p=

> > > > (or have a hole in the delivery pipe) that is preventing the water
> > > > from being delivered. Anybody know of a way to diagnose this issue
> > > > without special equipment? I believe the pump is at least 300' deep=
> > > > nd has worked flawlessly for years.
> > > Thanks all for the good input. I appreciate knowing something about
> > > the possibilities when I finally reach the well contractor. I have a
> > > couple of calls in to him, but it is a small town rural area and he
> > > doesn't seem to be getting his calls. Possibly he has gone hunting
> > > and did not leave an "out of office" message. It is a weekend place,
> > > so service calls mean time off work, yada yada.
> > > To clarify a few items:
> > > 1 - I first suspected the mechainical relay in the pressure switch. I
> > > opened the box and cleaned the contacts. They seem to be working
> > > fine, at least they are getting the pump turned on.
> > > 2 - I did check the power at the well head. I did not have a voltage
> > > meter, but used a simple outlet tester (pencil style chirper) to
> > > determine there was juice in the line. If somehow only 110/120 was
> > > getting down to the pump, is it possible it would only pump partway u=
> > > the piping?
> > If i'ts a 240V pump, which it almost certainly is for this
> > application, there is no way it could be getting 120V. The pump runs
> > off two out of phase hot legs that give 240V and there is no neutral.
> > I'd go buy a VOM. You can get cheap basic ones for $15 at radio shack
> > or many tool places, home centers, Sears, etc. If it's a 2 wire plus
> > ground 240V pump and you have 240V at the wires going down the well,
> > then you know it's time to pull the pump.
> > > 3 - We have high iron content in the water (partial reason for the
> > > treatment). I wondered if there had been a small leak in the steel
> > > pipe (yes it is steel, at least the top few sections that I have seen=
> > > that might have been plugged with oxidized iron. Perhaps the bleach
> > > then dissolved or loosened the "plug" enough to cause it to open?
> > Considering the symptoms and sequence of events, that would explain
> > things. However what the probability of that actually happening and
> > opening a hole sufficient to result in no water, I don't know, but
> > would think it would be low.
> > It's also possible the chlorine attacked the electrical system at some
> > point, ie, got into the motor, causing resistance in a connection,
> > etc.
> > > 4 - To the responder that concluded the pump is shot... I guess
> > > anything is possible, but when my car doesn't start I don't
> > > immediately shop for a new car ;-)
> > > 5 - I was having a tough time figuring out how the pressure could hav=
> > > gone to zero in our system - at least a reason associated with the
> > > well failure. Sounds like the two events need to be researched
> > > separately. As for the valve that prevents the water from flowing bck
> > > from the pressure tank to the well - is that something I can access
> > > and check myself? 'Fraid I have no clue about that unless it is
> > > integrated into the pressure tank?
> > Normally the check valve is located in the pump. That;s why I said
> > if the pressure went to 0 overnight without any water usage, it's a
> > strong indication that there is a leak in the well piping and such a
> > leak would totally explain what you are seeing and hearing.
> > > 6 - to the person who asked about the strength of the bleach used: We
> > > used a standard 5.5% product, mixed with water. According to our well
> > > report we have about 200' of water in a 6" column, and we used 8 cups
> > > of bleach. I guess that could be an overdose if the water level had
> > > dropped, but I have no reason to suspect that is the case.
> > Doesn't seem like a lot of bleach. I strongly suspect that you're
> > going to find that whatever happened, it was destined to happen pretty
> > soon anyway. The bleach may have only accelerated it. It might
> > actually be a good thing, because if something is corroded, you may
> > have found it sooner, before the pipe breaks off from the pump, etc.
> > > Thanks again
> > > Does the pump have a control box, or is it a 2 wire pump? Is there
> > > anything
> > > that would indicate if the pump is 120 or 240 volts? If you have
> > > galvanized
> > > piping down the well, it's possible that it rotted and broke, but I
> > > still
> > > don't see anything that you did that would have caused it to happen.
> > > There
> > > may be a check valve before the pressure tank, and one or more down i=
> > > the
> > > well- Hide quoted text -
> > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
> > - Show quoted text -
> Again, grateful for all the good info. =A0I reached the contractor
> today, and he described a few other possible scenarios. =A0He touched on
> many items already mentioned here. =A0His additions (from memory - not
> the best record)
> - the "starter condenser" might be working but the "run condenser" is
> shot. Hope that terminology is accurate.
> If you have a control box, this stuff can be diagnosed right there. If yo=
> don't, it's built into the pump, and it needs to be pulled
> - the recirculating of the water back down the well pipe might have
> dislodged accumulated oxidation on the casing, and the pump inlet
> screen could be fouled.
> There were a few other items to track as well. =A0We are arranging to
> meet there as soon as I can spare a day from work, and he will start
> to diagnose. =A0Will post back to the group once we find the problem,
> just for interest's sake.- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -