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Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here.
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Posted by Danny on February 23, 2008, 6:18 pm
I've been laying some laminate and got to a doorway and got stuck
thinking about what I should do with the little difficulty that I've
encountered. I cut the doorjambs with a flush cut saw just like they
show and is common knowlege to be a thing that you have to do. I also
have all of my trim off of the walls and around the door openings.
Basically, I have what would amount to a room that had just been
drywalled and painted, I thought that this would make for the best
looking installation, to hide the edge of the laminate under the orignal
baseboard trim without a shoe molding, if possible (and it looks to be
with what I'll put down). Now, I've gotten a piece of laminate trimmed
to fit in the last row, with an "L" shape on it to extend into the
doorway which will but up against the Pergo "Hard Surface Reducer" to
finish off the floor to the concrete floor in the closet that adjoins
the room. I have then slid it under the door jamb, got it to where it
leaves the customary 1/4" gap using the Pergo Spacers (which in my
opinion, suck, because they are two piece and the pieces are not flat).
Now I go to admire my progress and to check out how the jamb area will
look with the casing put up around the doorway. I try a short section of
trim out above the floor on the door and then my look probably turned to
one of horror. I find that the trim to be used as the door casing will
not cover the 1/4" gap used at the edge of the floor, and that's because
I'm using the typical "clam shell" or other basic types of molding which
have similar dimensions as the clam shell molding. As the trim gets to
the side that's thinner, it actually gets thinner than the gap required
for a floating floor. I can see that I could just substitute a thicker
type of molding, but I tend to like the thinner types. I don't know
exactly what the problem is and how to remedy it in the proper way
without getting an interference at the floor margins from expansion, if
I were to just close the gap tighter. The various forms of instructions
from the Manufacturer don't tell all of the tricks (partially because
they can't cover every situation, which is well understood by me), and
I've heard that sometimes givng comprehensive instructions makes the job
look daunting and impedes sales to consumers. I've created a gap of
1/4" between the studs of the rough door opening as well as along the
wall. Ok, so, is the typical "Clamshell Molding" not compatible with a
floating floor because of the thin dimensions of the trim being smaller
than the gap required for the floor, or is there a trick that I've
missed in installation here that can allow me to use this trim for the
door casing. Will I be required to use a thicker trim on the casings.
I"ve got to get a solution here because my wife is getting on me because
the floor is not progressing as fast as she wants now. If it were up to
her, being ignorant of any type of mechanical skills, it's a simple
matter. She'll just stand over me and try to force me to run the
floating floor tight up to the wall or just leave the gap created saying
"do you think anyone will notice". Yes, I think it will be easily seen,
and what's more important, I'd know it's there. The sad thing is that
she was one of the first to beat up the former residents that put up a
tile floor and did almost the same thing. They left all of the trim and
shoe molding in place and either cut a piece of tile to fit up to the
shoe molding and grouted a thin edge at the shoe molding, or simply ran
a wide band of grout to the shoe molding, whichever was easier, in
effect, sinking the shoe molding below level of the tile floor,
"encapsulating it". I really need some help here to get me out of
trouble with my wife, and so that I can "do it correctly" so that
someone doesn't come in or buy the home and talk about the "moron" that
did the job.
Thanks,
Danny
(by the way, I could take digital pics if someone would need them)
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Posted by Skip Trace on February 23, 2008, 10:09 pm
"Danny" wrote in message
> Now, I've gotten a piece of laminate trimmed
> to fit in the last row, with an "L" shape
> (by the way, I could take digital pics if someone would need them)
Danny,
I had a real hard time reading the one paragraph. Maybe it's my old eyes,
but a paragraph that large, is really hard to follow.
Digital pics posted somewhere, sure would help.
What I got out of what I could follow, it's you spaced the flooring in
front of the jamb. The flooring should run under the jamb. You do not use
spaces. That's the purpose of cutting the jamb, to run under it.
A tip for cutting that row is: Don't do a straight "L" cut, but angle
where the horizontal & vertical of the "L" meet. Kind of like " / " .
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Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on February 23, 2008, 10:22 pm
> Now, I've gotten a piece of laminate trimmed
> to fit in the last row, with an "L" shape on it to extend into the
> doorway which will but up against the Pergo "Hard Surface Reducer" to
> finish off the floor to the concrete floor in the closet that adjoins
> the room. I have then slid it under the door jamb, got it to where it
> leaves the customary 1/4" gap using the Pergo Spacers (which in my
> opinion, suck, because they are two piece and the pieces are not flat).
> Now I go to admire my progress and to check out how the jamb area will
> look with the casing put up around the doorway.
You have a few choices.
My first and more stylish choice is to get rid of the bland looking
clamshell and put up a molding with nice style. Didn't clamshell go out of
style in the 60's?
My next choice would be to cut a new piece leaving less of a gap so it will
be covered. If you are worried about that 2" section expanding, trip a
notch in the drywall for it and that will be covered also.
Third choice is to put it back and don't worry about it. Tell your wife to
either live with it or leave.
If you don't like the Pergo spacers, don't use them. Anything that is about
1/4" will work. Hunk of wood, pebbles, 1/4" bolts. pieces of a pencil.
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