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Posted by terry on August 12, 2008, 11:38 am
Like printer cartridges where replacement a couple of times can can
cost as much as a new printer! Replacement battery packs for cordless
tools cost almost as much/more than a new tool!
Have accumulated and been given several cordless drills with worn out
batteries, and even if one has newer cordless tools the batteries even
of the same manufacture don't fit. We must have five (at least)
different style battery packs!
We have rebuilt (maybe re-celling is the right term, but it's lot of
work repacking and then connecting together the new cells within each
battery pack) a couple of Bosch drill batteries because we liked the
drill, but then the charger into which only that battery pack will
fit, failed and a new charger is around $70!
So of course we got another, cheaper, cordless drill and it with it's
particular style of battery pack and charger works well enough for a
do-it-yourself-er; and we have other, older, 115 and 230 volt drills
anyway. One of them a Wolf drill bought in 1953 for really heavy work!
But thinking of a couple of strategies to make use of the drills,
which given batteries still work; still have working key-less chucks
etc.
1) Rig up an external connection from other chargers of the right
voltage etc.
2) Use a completely external power supplies from the AC supply to
power each drill (sans batteries although they'd probably be retained
in place for proper balance and use these drills on various work
benches (we have 3 benches in various locations) and retain the
cordless and 'regular' plug in drills for other work.
With bench work it's sometimes useful to have a second drill at hand
to avoid frequent swapping of bits etc. There is also, as the amount
of salvaged and saved 'junk' in my basement attests, a wish to not
just throw away somethings that still work! It's called recycling
these days AIUI?
BTW an ancillary question.
3) How does one remove a key-less chuck from a drill? Cos could put
one on an older corded drill that has a too-small chuck which is also
getting a bit 'past it' and doesn't tighten well even with the correct
chuck-key.
Comments advice, rants, criticism welcomed.
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Posted by ransley on August 12, 2008, 5:00 pm
> Like printer cartridges where replacement a couple of times can can
> cost as much as a new printer! Replacement battery packs for cordless
> tools cost almost as much/more than a new tool!
> Have accumulated and been given several cordless drills with worn out
> batteries, and even if one has newer cordless tools the batteries even
> of the same manufacture don't fit. We must have five (at least)
> different style battery packs!
> We have rebuilt (maybe re-celling is the right term, but it's lot of
> work repacking and then connecting together the new cells within each
> battery pack) a couple of Bosch drill batteries because we liked the
> drill, but then the charger into which only that battery pack will
> fit, failed and a new charger is around $70!
> So of course we got another, cheaper, cordless drill and it with it's
> particular style of battery pack and charger works well enough for a
> do-it-yourself-er; and we have other, older, 115 and 230 volt drills
> anyway. One of them a Wolf drill bought in 1953 for really heavy work!
> But thinking of a couple of strategies to make use of the drills,
> which given batteries still work; still have working key-less chucks
> etc.
> 1) Rig up an external connection from other chargers of the right
> voltage etc.
> 2) Use a completely external power supplies from the AC supply to
> power each drill (sans batteries although they'd probably be retained
> in place for proper balance and use these drills on various work
> benches (we have 3 benches in various locations) and retain the
> cordless and 'regular' plug in drills for other work.
> With bench work it's sometimes useful to have a second drill at hand
> to avoid frequent swapping of bits etc. There is also, as the amount
> of salvaged and saved 'junk' in my basement attests, a wish to not
> just throw away somethings that still work! It's called recycling
> these days AIUI?
> BTW an ancillary question.
> 3) How does one remove a key-less chuck from a drill? Cos could put
> one on an older corded drill that has a too-small chuck which is also
> getting a bit 'past it' and doesn't tighten well even with the correct
> chuck-key.
> Comments advice, rants, criticism welcomed.
Maybe rebuild a few packs on good drills with good batteries like
Sanyo, but heating a battery with a iron will ruin it or shorten its
life, junk a few poor ones and buy one with a real warranty, Ridgid
has lifetime warranty even on batteries, tool and charger, if battery
or other part, the warranty is dissalowed by HD, Microwave it till it
Smokes, then it IS defective. I went with HD as chargers and battery
style are interchangeable, I have used a 9.6v battery on an 18v tool.
1. A charger does not have the amps to power a drill and will be
ruined.
2. then its a corded drill
3 a chuck is bolted on, open fully and look inside it.
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Posted by hallerb@aol.com on August 13, 2008, 8:31 am
http://www.primecell.com/
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Posted by terry on August 13, 2008, 10:37 am
> http://www.primecell.com/
Thank you for the various advice. Also for company names etc.
Basically need a battery-replacer in Canada to avoid hassle of getting
customs people to only levy export/import tariffs and taxes etc. on
value of the replaced batteries not the original or listed retail
value of each battery pack.
Sometimes the tariffs are to 'protect' industries in either country
(Cos much of this stuff is made overseas anyway; for example our
'German' Bosch drill has battery packs from China. We strongly suspect
the drill itself was manufactured or assembled in Mexico. Also
enquiring of the local Bosch agent about a replacement battery charger
which IIRC appeared to be supplied from Taiwan!).
Our 'Japanese' Nissan truck was manufactured, for example in USA (In
Tennessee I think?).
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Posted by David on August 13, 2008, 6:05 pm
> http://www.primecell.com/
Our 'Japanese' Nissan truck was manufactured, for example in USA (In
Tennessee I think?).
In Smyrna, TN to be exact...close to Nashville.
David
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> cost as much as a new printer! Replacement battery packs for cordless
> tools cost almost as much/more than a new tool!
> Have accumulated and been given several cordless drills with worn out
> batteries, and even if one has newer cordless tools the batteries even
> of the same manufacture don't fit. We must have five (at least)
> different style battery packs!
> We have rebuilt (maybe re-celling is the right term, but it's lot of
> work repacking and then connecting together the new cells within each
> battery pack) a couple of Bosch drill batteries because we liked the
> drill, but then the charger into which only that battery pack will
> fit, failed and a new charger is around $70!
> So of course we got another, cheaper, cordless drill and it with it's
> particular style of battery pack and charger works well enough for a
> do-it-yourself-er; and we have other, older, 115 and 230 volt drills
> anyway. One of them a Wolf drill bought in 1953 for really heavy work!
> But thinking of a couple of strategies to make use of the drills,
> which given batteries still work; still have working key-less chucks
> etc.
> 1) Rig up an external connection from other chargers of the right
> voltage etc.
> 2) Use a completely external power supplies from the AC supply to
> power each drill (sans batteries although they'd probably be retained
> in place for proper balance and use these drills on various work
> benches (we have 3 benches in various locations) and retain the
> cordless and 'regular' plug in drills for other work.
> With bench work it's sometimes useful to have a second drill at hand
> to avoid frequent swapping of bits etc. There is also, as the amount
> of salvaged and saved 'junk' in my basement attests, a wish to not
> just throw away somethings that still work! It's called recycling
> these days AIUI?
> BTW an ancillary question.
> 3) How does one remove a key-less chuck from a drill? Cos could put
> one on an older corded drill that has a too-small chuck which is also
> getting a bit 'past it' and doesn't tighten well even with the correct
> chuck-key.
> Comments advice, rants, criticism welcomed.