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RADON REMEDIATION Mr. Tool 12-27-2006
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Posted by Mr. Tool on December 27, 2006, 8:47 pm


I had the radon checked in the basement 1 yr ago. It measured 6 pc/L. I
paid to have a sub slab depressurization system put in. It maintains 2.5
inches of water vacuum. I also installed an electronic continuous radon
monitor. In the summer when the swamp cooler runs the radon level drops
to almost zero. In the winter the furnace runs and the levels go up to
16 pc/L. The sub slab system is useless as the soil is bentonite clay,
it has zero porosity. The contractor guaranteed results but it is like
pulling teeth.

I want to pressurize the basement to stop the radon. I'm thinking of
forcing air from the first floor into a semi sealed basement through a
floor register via a duct fan. Here's my questions:

1. Can I use a radon fan to pressurize the basement?

2. If so, will it operate ok upside down?

3. Will excessive over pressurization cause problems with the furnace
and hot water heater (both natural gas) in the basement?

4. How many inches of overpressurization is ok for the basement? I have
a filter manometer to measure this with.

5. Is there a better way to do this?

6. What fan would be best?

I want the system to run quietly for years w/o maintenance.

Thanks all,

The "Tool"

Radiant Heat 468x60
Posted by Speedy Jim on December 27, 2006, 9:24 pm


Mr. Tool wrote:

> I had the radon checked in the basement 1 yr ago. It measured 6 pc/L. I
> paid to have a sub slab depressurization system put in. It maintains 2.5
> inches of water vacuum. I also installed an electronic continuous radon
> monitor. In the summer when the swamp cooler runs the radon level drops
> to almost zero. In the winter the furnace runs and the levels go up to
> 16 pc/L. The sub slab system is useless as the soil is bentonite clay,
> it has zero porosity. The contractor guaranteed results but it is like
> pulling teeth.
>
> I want to pressurize the basement to stop the radon. I'm thinking of
> forcing air from the first floor into a semi sealed basement through a
> floor register via a duct fan. Here's my questions:
>
> 1. Can I use a radon fan to pressurize the basement?
>
> 2. If so, will it operate ok upside down?
>
> 3. Will excessive over pressurization cause problems with the furnace
> and hot water heater (both natural gas) in the basement?
>
> 4. How many inches of overpressurization is ok for the basement? I have
> a filter manometer to measure this with.
>
> 5. Is there a better way to do this?
>
> 6. What fan would be best?
>
> I want the system to run quietly for years w/o maintenance.
>
> Thanks all,
>
> The "Tool"

I seriously doubt you will ever "presssurize" a basement.

Besides the porous building construction, there are those
pesky gas appliances. Assuming the furnace and heater are
natural draft, any excess air you manage to force into the
basement will simply bypass up the draft diverter to the
chimney.

Jim

Posted by Mr. Tool on December 27, 2006, 11:00 pm


Speedy Jim wrote:
> Mr. Tool wrote:
>
>> I had the radon checked in the basement 1 yr ago. It measured 6 pc/L.
>> I paid to have a sub slab depressurization system put in. It maintains
>> 2.5 inches of water vacuum. I also installed an electronic continuous
>> radon monitor. In the summer when the swamp cooler runs the radon
>> level drops to almost zero. In the winter the furnace runs and the
>> levels go up to 16 pc/L. The sub slab system is useless as the soil is
>> bentonite clay, it has zero porosity. The contractor guaranteed
>> results but it is like pulling teeth.
>>
>> I want to pressurize the basement to stop the radon. I'm thinking of
>> forcing air from the first floor into a semi sealed basement through a
>> floor register via a duct fan. Here's my questions:
>>
>> 1. Can I use a radon fan to pressurize the basement?
>>
>> 2. If so, will it operate ok upside down?
>>
>> 3. Will excessive over pressurization cause problems with the furnace
>> and hot water heater (both natural gas) in the basement?
>>
>> 4. How many inches of overpressurization is ok for the basement? I
>> have a filter manometer to measure this with.
>>
>> 5. Is there a better way to do this?
>>
>> 6. What fan would be best?
>>
>> I want the system to run quietly for years w/o maintenance.
>>
>> Thanks all,
>>
>> The "Tool"
>
> I seriously doubt you will ever "presssurize" a basement.
>
> Besides the porous building construction, there are those
> pesky gas appliances. Assuming the furnace and heater are
> natural draft, any excess air you manage to force into the
> basement will simply bypass up the draft diverter to the
> chimney.
>
> Jim

The swamp cooler obviously pressurized the basement. The resistance of
the heater flues will cause a pressure in the basement. I'm worried
about too much air flow causing havoc with the pilots.

Thanks,

The "Tool"

Posted by Art Todesco on December 27, 2006, 10:05 pm


I would guess that the furnace is
sucking air (radon) from the cracks in the
floor, etc when the gas is actually
burning, i.e combustion. Maybe you could
add a fresh air vent to the furnace area
to "allow" it to suck in outside air and
not cause negative pressure in the
basement. Just a guess. But, I would lean
on the contractor as hard a possible.

Mr. Tool wrote:
> I had the radon checked in the basement 1 yr ago. It measured 6 pc/L. I
> paid to have a sub slab depressurization system put in. It maintains 2.5
> inches of water vacuum. I also installed an electronic continuous radon
> monitor. In the summer when the swamp cooler runs the radon level drops
> to almost zero. In the winter the furnace runs and the levels go up to
> 16 pc/L. The sub slab system is useless as the soil is bentonite clay,
> it has zero porosity. The contractor guaranteed results but it is like
> pulling teeth.
>
> I want to pressurize the basement to stop the radon. I'm thinking of
> forcing air from the first floor into a semi sealed basement through a
> floor register via a duct fan. Here's my questions:
>
> 1. Can I use a radon fan to pressurize the basement?
>
> 2. If so, will it operate ok upside down?
>
> 3. Will excessive over pressurization cause problems with the furnace
> and hot water heater (both natural gas) in the basement?
>
> 4. How many inches of overpressurization is ok for the basement? I have
> a filter manometer to measure this with.
>
> 5. Is there a better way to do this?
>
> 6. What fan would be best?
>
> I want the system to run quietly for years w/o maintenance.
>
> Thanks all,
>
> The "Tool"

Posted by Mr. Tool on December 27, 2006, 10:58 pm


Art Todesco wrote:
> I would guess that the furnace is sucking air (radon) from the cracks in
> the
> floor, etc when the gas is actually burning, i.e combustion. Maybe you
> could
> add a fresh air vent to the furnace area to "allow" it to suck in
> outside air and
> not cause negative pressure in the basement. Just a guess. But, I
> would lean
> on the contractor as hard a possible.
>
> Mr. Tool wrote:
>> I had the radon checked in the basement 1 yr ago. It measured 6 pc/L.
>> I paid to have a sub slab depressurization system put in. It maintains
>> 2.5 inches of water vacuum. I also installed an electronic continuous
>> radon monitor. In the summer when the swamp cooler runs the radon
>> level drops to almost zero. In the winter the furnace runs and the
>> levels go up to 16 pc/L. The sub slab system is useless as the soil is
>> bentonite clay, it has zero porosity. The contractor guaranteed
>> results but it is like pulling teeth.
>>
>> I want to pressurize the basement to stop the radon. I'm thinking of
>> forcing air from the first floor into a semi sealed basement through a
>> floor register via a duct fan. Here's my questions:
>>
>> 1. Can I use a radon fan to pressurize the basement?
>>
>> 2. If so, will it operate ok upside down?
>>
>> 3. Will excessive over pressurization cause problems with the furnace
>> and hot water heater (both natural gas) in the basement?
>>
>> 4. How many inches of overpressurization is ok for the basement? I
>> have a filter manometer to measure this with.
>>
>> 5. Is there a better way to do this?
>>
>> 6. What fan would be best?
>>
>> I want the system to run quietly for years w/o maintenance.
>>
>> Thanks all,
>>
>> The "Tool"

The fresh air intake would definitely help. However, it is a 40+ yr old
cast iron boiler that does not have an air intake port. It sucks air up
through the whole bottom of the furnace so I would be letting lots of
cold air into the basement. Thanks,

Mr. "Tool"

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