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Radon mitigation

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Subject Author Date
Radon mitigation Jack 09-29-2009
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Posted by Jack on September 29, 2009, 8:17 am
I've got to have the radon problem taken care of in my house. Where is the
real "cost" of the project? Is it putting in the pit, running the pipe, the
expertise, etc, etc.? The reason I ask is I have a sump pit already
available, a pipe that runs through the house to the attic, and the
electrical hookup. I think I just need a pipe from the pit, a fan in the
attic, and the hole punched in the roof. Getting estimates next week.
Thank you for your time.
Posted by Frank on September 29, 2009, 8:41 am
Jack wrote:
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Not speaking from expertise but it's just ventilation and venting of
gas. Don't know how serious your problem is but I would do minimal
required. Some stuff I've seen appeared to be overkill and generally
not being an emergency you could take your time, maybe doing minimum and
retesting.
Posted by John Gilmer on September 29, 2009, 8:05 pm
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You might want to minimize use of the basement and add insulation between
the basement and the first floor (ASSuming that's your situation). If
your furnace is in the basement the compustion air alone will take out a lot
of the radon. It will tend to suck air out of the living spaces where is
is replaced by window/door leakage. If you have some kind of air exchange
for your home make the intake as far above ground as you can manage.
Radon is very heavy and tends to stay in the low spots. On "good days" you
might want to air out the basement and even the whole house.
Radon itself isn't the problem. But radon is subject to radioactive decay
and it leaves single atoms of very bad stuff that will either be absorbed in
your lungs or settling down to increase the "background radiation."
Posted by hr(bob) hofmann@att.net on September 29, 2009, 9:25 pm
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I put a 4in duct from a new hole I made in my sump pump cover up to
the basement ceiling and then over and out the side of the house
behind some very large and dense shubbery. I put a "duct-booster fan"
in the 4in line that is permantently on as long as there is
electricity. Since most of my radon came in with groundwater, (my
pump runs summer and winter at least once an hour) the fan blows out
the radon before it leaks into the actual house. I don't lose much
heat as the rest of the sump cover is closed and so the vacuum caused
by the fan isn't allowed to suck heated air from the house.
Radon stays consistently below 3 where it was slightly above 4
previously consistently.
Posted by Limp Arbor on September 29, 2009, 8:48 am
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The real cost is the additional heating & cooling costs you'll
incure. Running the fan sucks air from in your house and pumps it
outside.
You probably shouldn't run the pipe from your sump pit. All that damp
air probably isn't good for the fan. There is also the remote chance
that if the water gets high enough it will block the pipe.
Every situation is different but here is what I did:
Sealed sump pit. (I don't have a water issue)
Drilled hole in the basement slab (multiple small holes then broke out
the middle)
You need to get down to the gravel below the slab
Inserted 4" pvc into slab and caulked around it
Ran pipe out into garage and mounted the fan in garage (outside the
living area)
Ran pipe out through garage roof
This was ok for me because I had no nearby windows
Mounted a manometer to the pipe in the basement
You can buy fancy alarms and other items but this is cheap &
accurate
http://www.iaqsource.com/product.php?p=3Dradonaway_50006-1&product=3D17=
3613
When summer came the pipe in the garage and outside would sweat
because of all the cold air I was blowing out.
Called the place I bought the fan from and they told me to sprinkle
mortar all around the slab except a foot in each corner and spary
gently with water. Once I did this the pipe wasn't nearly as cold and
lowered my reading even more.
I don't remember the exact reading was but I cut my readings well
below the *danger* level.
The whole thing cost me less than $300 including the 4" hole saw I
used to make the hole in the roof.
The costs vary greatly depending on your home's construction but
googling puts a reasonable cost at $2,000 unless you have unique
construction.
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