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Re: 15 amps or 20 amps MiamiCuse 03-18-2007
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Posted by MiamiCuse on March 18, 2007, 1:21 am



>I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
>and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches
>are getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to
>replace all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I
>should get 20 amps switches and outlets.
>
> I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a
> piece, the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted
> that I need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way
> 20 amp switches are even more expensive!
>
> I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
> cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough.
> So what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:
>
> For activating garage door openers.
> For plugging in a central vac system.
> For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
> For high hat lights (a single one)
> For outdoor dusk light
> For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
> For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
> For a hallway a set of two high hat light
>
> Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
> expensive one if not really necessary.
>
> Thanks,
>
> MC
>
>

OK I want to apologize to everyone because of the incomplete information I
gave initially. I drove to the new house and checked the panels and most of
the circuits are 20A. There are two main panels, one on the left and one on
the right. There are only two 15A switches and the rest are all 20A, the AC
are on 50A, washing machine and utility room on 30A, kitchen on 30A and
there are 4 big 200A on each panel. See the picture below:

Left side panel:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/garage/P1000715.jpg

Right side panel:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/garage/P1000716.jpg

Both panels together:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/garage/P1000717.jpg

All wirings are in rigid metal conduits and 12 gauge. There is a romex
cable from the left side going up to the attic - I have to figure out what
that is and why it was added.

However, I think the recommendations will still be the same despite the
circuits being 20A, I just need some better quality 15A switches and outlets
is what I am hearing.

Thanks!

MC





Posted by RBM on March 18, 2007, 8:27 am


Also, keep in mind devices from different manufacturers, of different
ratings, and qualities, will visually be dissimilar. I'd recommend picking
something good, but affordable, and use it throughout the house




>
>>I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
>>and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches
>>are getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to
>>replace all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I
>>should get 20 amps switches and outlets.
>>
>> I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a
>> piece, the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted
>> that I need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way
>> 20 amp switches are even more expensive!
>>
>> I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or
>> vaccum cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is
>> enough. So what is the basis for determining this if I have these
>> switches:
>>
>> For activating garage door openers.
>> For plugging in a central vac system.
>> For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
>> For high hat lights (a single one)
>> For outdoor dusk light
>> For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
>> For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
>> For a hallway a set of two high hat light
>>
>> Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
>> expensive one if not really necessary.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> MC
>>
>>
>
> OK I want to apologize to everyone because of the incomplete information I
> gave initially. I drove to the new house and checked the panels and most
> of the circuits are 20A. There are two main panels, one on the left and
> one on the right. There are only two 15A switches and the rest are all
> 20A, the AC are on 50A, washing machine and utility room on 30A, kitchen
> on 30A and there are 4 big 200A on each panel. See the picture below:
>
> Left side panel:
>
> http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/garage/P1000715.jpg
>
> Right side panel:
>
> http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/garage/P1000716.jpg
>
> Both panels together:
>
> http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/garage/P1000717.jpg
>
> All wirings are in rigid metal conduits and 12 gauge. There is a romex
> cable from the left side going up to the attic - I have to figure out what
> that is and why it was added.
>
> However, I think the recommendations will still be the same despite the
> circuits being 20A, I just need some better quality 15A switches and
> outlets is what I am hearing.
>
> Thanks!
>
> MC
>
>
>
>



Posted by Terry on March 18, 2007, 11:06 am


On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 01:21:28 -0400, "MiamiCuse"

>
>>I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
>>and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches
>>are getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to
>>replace all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I
>>should get 20 amps switches and outlets.
>>
>> I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a
>> piece, the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I counted
>> that I need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3 way
>> 20 amp switches are even more expensive!
>>
>> I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or vaccum
>> cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough.
>> So what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:
>>
>> For activating garage door openers.
>> For plugging in a central vac system.
>> For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
>> For high hat lights (a single one)
>> For outdoor dusk light
>> For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
>> For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
>> For a hallway a set of two high hat light
>>
>> Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
>> expensive one if not really necessary.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> MC
>>
>>
>
>OK I want to apologize to everyone because of the incomplete information I
>gave initially. I drove to the new house and checked the panels and most of
>the circuits are 20A. There are two main panels, one on the left and one on
>the right. There are only two 15A switches and the rest are all 20A, the AC
>are on 50A, washing machine and utility room on 30A, kitchen on 30A and
>there are 4 big 200A on each panel. See the picture below:
>
>Left side panel:
>
>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/garage/P1000715.jpg
>
>Right side panel:
>
>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/garage/P1000716.jpg
>
>Both panels together:
>
>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/garage/P1000717.jpg
>
>All wirings are in rigid metal conduits and 12 gauge. There is a romex
>cable from the left side going up to the attic - I have to figure out what
>that is and why it was added.
>
>However, I think the recommendations will still be the same despite the
>circuits being 20A, I just need some better quality 15A switches and outlets
>is what I am hearing.
>
>Thanks!
>
>MC
>
>
Are you calling the breakers in the panels "switches"

They are switches, but no one calls them that.

You don't need 20A switches to feed the room lights, but you should
use 20A breakers in the electrical panel if that is what you already
have. If you have many breakers failing you have a much bigger
problem.

Posted by MiamiCuse on March 18, 2007, 11:57 am



> On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 01:21:28 -0400, "MiamiCuse"
>
>>
>>>I had an electrican inspect an old house I bought and he said the wirings
>>>and everything are fine and great. But many of the outlets and switches
>>>are getting flaky and sometimes the switches don't work. We decided to
>>>replace all outlets and switches. He told me to be on the safe side I
>>>should get 20 amps switches and outlets.
>>>
>>> I went to Home Depot and found the normal 15 amp switches are $0.89 a
>>> piece, the 20 amp switches are $5.89 a piece. Big difference. I
>>> counted
>>> that I need about 70 outlets and 45 switches so this adds up. Plus 3
>>> way
>>> 20 amp switches are even more expensive!
>>>
>>> I called him and he said if I have outlets I might plug in a saw or
>>> vaccum
>>> cleaner than I should get 20 amps if it's a desk lamp 15 amp is enough.
>>> So what is the basis for determining this if I have these switches:
>>>
>>> For activating garage door openers.
>>> For plugging in a central vac system.
>>> For high hat lights (10 of them with one switch)
>>> For high hat lights (a single one)
>>> For outdoor dusk light
>>> For a series of 5 florescent tube lights
>>> For ceiling fan that has a light attachment
>>> For a hallway a set of two high hat light
>>>
>>> Can I use some 15 amps and some 20 amps, would really like to avoid the
>>> expensive one if not really necessary.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> MC
>>>
>>>
>>
>>OK I want to apologize to everyone because of the incomplete information I
>>gave initially. I drove to the new house and checked the panels and most
>>of
>>the circuits are 20A. There are two main panels, one on the left and one
>>on
>>the right. There are only two 15A switches and the rest are all 20A, the
>>AC
>>are on 50A, washing machine and utility room on 30A, kitchen on 30A and
>>there are 4 big 200A on each panel. See the picture below:
>>
>>Left side panel:
>>
>>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/garage/P1000715.jpg
>>
>>Right side panel:
>>
>>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/garage/P1000716.jpg
>>
>>Both panels together:
>>
>>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/garage/P1000717.jpg
>>
>>All wirings are in rigid metal conduits and 12 gauge. There is a romex
>>cable from the left side going up to the attic - I have to figure out what
>>that is and why it was added.
>>
>>However, I think the recommendations will still be the same despite the
>>circuits being 20A, I just need some better quality 15A switches and
>>outlets
>>is what I am hearing.
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>MC
>>
>>
> Are you calling the breakers in the panels "switches"
>
> They are switches, but no one calls them that.
>
> You don't need 20A switches to feed the room lights, but you should
> use 20A breakers in the electrical panel if that is what you already
> have. If you have many breakers failing you have a much bigger
> problem.

Sorry, I mispoke again. What I meant was I was looking to replace the
switches and outlets throughout the houses and they look different and many
of the light, fans and outlets are not working (for example, one set of
light I have to turn on and off a few times and get it just right in that
position for light to come on, and many switches are like that). The
pictures I posted above was the electrical panels. There are only two
breakers on 15A and the rest of them are all 20A and above is what I meant.
So I do have an 20A circuit for the most part. The two 15A one was to
operate the outside soffit recessed lights and the other for the garage
overhead lights.

MC



Posted by Steve Barker on March 18, 2007, 3:20 pm


Unless it's wired up with 10ga wire on those 30's, you should replace them
with 20's. and I can't imagine taking a 10ga wire to a duplex outlet.

--
Steve Barker

YOU should be the one
controlling YOUR car.
Check out:
www.lightsout.org




>
>> I'd be wondering why there's a 30A feed to the kitchen, and the one to
>> the laundry is suspect also.
>>
>> --
>> Steve Barker
>>
>>
>
> I wondered about that too. It may be related to the fact that there is a
> large monster subzero refrigerator with dual "units" one for the
> refrigerator and one for the freezer. Although this thing is so old I am
> hauling it out and throwing it away. There is also a commercial size hood
> fan with a motor mounted on top of the roof the size of a lawn mower so my
> hunch is it is for the fan or the fridge. Other than that it's the
> typical oven, microwave, indoor bbq grill, dish washer, wine cooler, trash
> compactor and garbage disposals, nothing really fancy there.
>
> Nothing special in the laundry utility room just a normal washer dryer
> hookup. I see a large socket on one wall where there may have been some
> large appliances. The socket is unlike one I have seen before. It has
> three slots each angled 120 degrees (sort of like the three legs of a
> triangle). It is being taped over. So I wonder what that might be for.
> I will snap a picture next time.
>
> I wish there were plans of this house but nothing is available. County
> made microfilms on it and then bugs eaten them all up. So I am solving
> the mystery one step at a time.
>
> MC
>



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