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Posted by Phil Scott on June 13, 2005, 4:53 pm
> > I'm soon to begin constructing a ground level (i.e. 14"
above ground)
> cedar
> > deck off the back of my house, and so right now I'm in the
process of
> > determining all that I will need to purchase before I
begin, including a
> few
> > new power tools. For example, the circular saw I have is
okay for
> > occasional use but I dread using it for a whole project,
so I want to buy
> > myself a considerably better one. Now, aside from
value-per-price
> > considerations, what should I look for in shopping for a
very-good to high
> > quality circular saw? And in particular, what should I
make of
> "worm-drive"
> > versus the more common, "side-winder", type saws?
> >
> > A couple of acquaintances of mine praise their worm-drives
as being
> > inherently superior in every way to the ordinary (i.e.
side-winder) type.
> > But I've noticed that these worm-drive saws are
comparatively heavier
> (which
> > might not be ergonominally advantageous, I don't know).
And the position
> of
> > the handles on these saws just looks (to my minds eye, at
least) to be
> > awkward to handle and perhaps not intended for close,
precision or
> finishing
> > work.
> >
> > Of course, since I haven't actually ever used a worm-drive
saw, my
> untested
> > perceptions of it don't necessarily mean a thing. Hence,
I'm posting this
> > message in the hopes someone might 'enlighten' me in this
before I come to
> a
> > decision what to buy. Thanks in advance...
> >
> > Ken
> >
> >
>
> If you choose to buy a less expensive circular saw, be
careful. An aluminum
> table bevel arm, and depth arm can easily bend. Very
difficult to
> straighten correctly without dismantling the table entirely.
The blade may
> head in one direction, and the table edge may slighly
off-direction in case
> of aluminum tables on some less expensive circular saws. I
built a one car
> garage/workshop with such a circular saw. Ignored the table
edge and
> followed the line with the saw blade instead.
>
> Critical bevel cuts, like in fascia, I used a miter/drop
saw. Mass-produced
> common rafters with the same miter saw as well, with an 8'
table on either
> side of the miter saw. A miter saw won't try to walk off a
cross-cut line,
> like some circular saws do. Miter saws are not influenced
by cupping or
> minor surface defects in the wood.
>
> Worm-drive saws are heavy in weight compared to the less
expensive circular
> saws. I doubt if you can bend their tables by typical bumps
and short drops
> to the earth. They tend to have more amperage to cut with,
generally do a
> good line cut without much user guidance.
>
> Right now, after finishing the garage, painting a house
interior, trenching
> mostly rock for water pipe and conduit to the house and
garage, am suffering
> from strained tendons in my right elbow area. Doc is
treating me with
> localized cortisone shots. If I had been using a worm drive
saw on that
> garage, suspect I would be hurting a bit more. You're
right, ergonomics is
> a factor.
I have a super light craftsman 5" side wider for a lot of
work...very handy. doesnt wear you out..but its slower than a
bigger saw. It cuts a 2x4 narrow with in one cut, straight
but not beveled of course..and its great for overhead work.
Its half the wt of a larger saw.
Phil Scott
>
>
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