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Posted by Doug Miller on April 24, 2005, 4:39 am
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>What do you mean "Much Less Voltage Drop using a #10 opposed to a #12" ?
The thicker the conductor, the less its resistance to current, and hence the
less the voltage will drop due to the resistance of the conductor -- but #12
wire has a resistance of only two ohms per thousand feet to begin with. To
state that #10 wire has "much less voltage drop" in your application
overstates the case a bit.
In any event, you need a 25A circuit and hence #10 wire at a minimum anyway,
so the difference in voltage drop between #12 and #10 is utterly irrelevant.
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>What would be the side affect for Hooking a #12 Wire pulling 16.7 Amps?
Possibly a fire. That's why the Code doesn't permit it.
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>Could someone please explain "Continuous Load" and why a Hot Water Heater
>falls into this catogory.
"Continuous load: a load where the maximum current is expected to continue for
three hours or more."
Most of the time, the conditions of use of a water heater would *not* fall
into this category, but it certainly could.
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>Would the Hot Water heater always be pulling the full 2000 Watts or does it
>only pull 2000 Watts on the highest temp?
The heating element is either on or off.
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>I have no problem running #10 Wire but I just ran #12 for a smaller Hot
>Water Heater and needed to return it because it was too small for its
>application (Washer/Dryer Room).
Well, then, run the #10.
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
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