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Posted by on June 24, 2005, 10:59 am
Check out the July 2005 issuse of Fine Homebuilding. They show how to
replace a rotten mudsill on page 62.
Rob
JimL wrote:
> Tim
>
>
> There are some experienced professionals on this newsgroup. But
> they can't work with your inadequate descriptions of your problem.
>
> Post several pictures of the problem also showing the structural
> details of your house and you will get some valuable advice from the
> professionals.
>
> JimL
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >> Me thinks you need a pro to guide you.
> >>
> >> I would only be guessing at a solution. I bet your going to be jacking
> >the
> >> house up to replace the rotted timber.
> >
> >I'm not even sure what type of a pro you'd call for such a thing. And I
> >envision it to be very expensive, not so much because it's difficult, but
> >because it's labor intensive.
> >
> >I'd be very open to hiring someone to come out and consult me and then let
> >me do the work, if I could find such a person. But we really don't have an
> >extra $2-3K in the budget right now to cover this little "surprise" and have
> >it fully done. We're building the new deck ourselves, and this would just
> >about double the cost of it.
> >
> >Can anyone answer the following questions:
> >
> >a) On the gable side of a split-entry house, to what degree are the framing
> >members load bearing? It would seem like if this was bearing major weight
> >that it would be resting on something a little more solid than a single 2x4
> >top plate (for what it's worth, the 2x4 is also rotted out and needs to be
> >replaced).
> >
> >b) Is a 2x10" rim joist in this application a "spanning" member, or does it
> >simply rest on the wall below? That is, can I cut out a chunk and replace
> >it, or does the entire span (from side of the house to the center steel
> >support, presumably) need replacing?
> >
> >c) Again in this application, can I safely remove a 2-3' chunk of rim joist
> >and replace it without jacking? There doen't seem to be many loads here on
> >the gable side -- there's absolutely no noticable sagging with the 1-2'
> >rotten chunk now... If I do need to jack, how what do I jack against? I'm
> >partially under a patio door, but I'd envision attaching a temporary
> >horizontal member to the framing studs of the house, and jacking between
> >that and the ground from the exterior? (Again, I'm parallel to the floor
> >joists, not perp to it).
> >
> >d) Once again, my new deck will be supported by this member (actually, if
> >I'd just replace the damaged chunk, it would be replaced mostly by the old,
> >non-rotten portions of the original member, and just a 2-3' chunk of
> >replacement). So everything will need to be engineered so the deck will be
> >properly supported.
> >
> >Rest assured I'm pretty good at knowing when I'm over my head -- but I"m
> >looking for specific details here. Upon hearing how it's done, I'm capable
> >of realizing if I'll need to call in the pros or not. But for now, I'm
> >simply asking "how would the pros do it"? I do appreciate the sentiments
> >that I should just call a pro, but now that we've got that covered twice
> >over, I'd appreciate it if all future replies can stick to the questions at
> >hand, and any other project specific details.
> >
> >Thanks!
> >-Tim
> >
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