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Posted by JimL on June 22, 2005, 1:51 pm
Very nice pictures.
I am currently working on a similar problem on my house but mine is
caused by termites. I'm replacing several studs and headers so my
house don't fall down. I have a wide triple window unit that has to
go as I've lost a great deal of structural integrity in the area.
I'm replacing the wide (36 inch) windows with 28 inch windows and
adding new treated studs between each the three windws and on the
outer edges.
You need to do the same. Starting from your foundation, build a
structurally sound pillar (2 2x4 treated studs nailed and glued
together) going all the way to your roof, replacing the single windows
with two windows, one on each side of this new pillar.
wrote:
>> So how long is this wall? The short wall has only a single 2x4 becuase
>your
>> rim joist(s?) is bearing the weight. And how long is the total span? And
>> is this a single joist? Not two 2x12's? Are your floor joists running
>the
>> entire width of the house, or do you have posts in the basement?
>
>There is a large steel member that runs down the center of the house. Based
>on the looks of the finished lower level, I think there is a single post
>supporting this steel beam, aside from the sides of the house. The wall in
>question is about 26' long, with the steel in the center. It's a single
>joist - 2x10". House was built in 1980, in case that's relavant.
>
>> I'm no structural engineer, but my guess is that the rim joist is load
>> bearing over that short wall.
>
>That's my concern. If I knew it definitely *wasn't* then I'd feel very
>comfortable doing the repair.
>
>> I'm anal, so what I would do is put in new (snip)
>
>That sounds like a decent plan, but as usual, there are complications.
>
>I've posted 2 pictures of the situation:
>http://www.fischersplace.com/images/Gallery/home/Deck/deckrot1.jpg
>http://www.fischersplace.com/images/Gallery/home/Deck/deckrot2.jpg
>
>As you can see, the rotted section is directly below the left edge of the
>patio door (and it's supporting jack/king studs), and also above a window
>below. Unless I replace the entire section under the patio door and to the
>right of the window below, I'd have to presumably do some pretty hefty
>beefing up of the window header so it could support the weight of the joist
>(and deck) above.
>
>> What you could do for support is pull off a couple of rows of siding above
>> the rim joist, then lag bolt a temporary 2x12 to the studs that surround
>the
>> area you'll be replacing, then jack up that 2x12 from the outside. make
>> sense?
>
>Makes sense, except for the patio door. I'm assuming I can probably jack on
>both sides of it, ignoring the span of the door itself, since the structure
>above it is supported by a header? What size jacks would you recommend for
>this? Would standard screw jaks ala Home Depot work, or should I rent some
>beefier ones?
>
>> Also, when you put on the new deck a good idea is to shim the new ledger
>out
>> a bit. Cut some treated 1/4"(or less) strips to use where you'll bolt
>your
>> ledger onto the house. Inevitably, water will get behind the deck ledger,
>> this space will allow for better drainage. Don't forget the new layer of
>> tar paper over your new rim joist area, then good flashing over the new
>> ledger as well.
>
>That makes sense, as long as it doesn't violate any codes.
>
>> And, of course, you shouldn't listen to any of us. You should call a pro
>who
>> can see it with his/her own eyes :)
>
>Point taken. Like I said, I'm open to any advice on who to call for
>something like this -- even just to get an estimate. But aside from $$$'s
>being a concern, I currently have an open sore in the side of the house and
>it's been pretty rainy lately -- so I'd like to tackle this very quickly
>(aside from me wanting to resume my plans to work on the deck itself...)
>
>Thanks bunches, hope the pics and further detail help diagnose this problem.
>I'm also asking lots of questions just so I don't assume (and miss)
>something - I hope it isn't making me look woefully ignorant.
>
>-Tim
>
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