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Re: Help-- Rim joist rotted!

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Re: Help-- Rim joist rotted! Eric Tonks 06-22-2005
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Posted by Eric Tonks on June 22, 2005, 1:07 pm
Check the electric outlet and the left edge of the door frame and sill, it
is noticeable that your rot is right beneath these two items, sounds like
they may be leaking water behind the sheathing and onto your joist and top
plate. Your deck ledger board may be innocent as I don't see damage further
along. It is good insurance to eliminate all sources of water intrusion.

> We're building a new deck, and yesterday I removed the old ledger board
from
> the old deck and to my horor, discovered that for years, water had been
> seeping between this board and the rim joist on the house, and the rim
joist
> is now badly rotted. In fact, there's about a 12-18" section that is all
> but not there now, once I poked many holes through it with my finger...
>
> So now I need to know how to go about replacing it, so I can continue on
> with the deck. I've googled for info without much luck. The little info
I
> found via google assumes that the rim joist is perpendicular to the floor
> joists, and that it's right over the foundation. In my case, it's
parallel
> to the floor joists (and on the gable end of the house), and since it's a
> split-entry house, there is a short (approx 5') wall between this joist
and
> the block foundation below.
>
> My questions are:
>
> a) do I have to replace this joist as a complete span, or can I cut it out
> and replace the damaged chunk? The posts dealing with the joists right
over
> the foundation imply you can just cut out the damaged section, but since
I'm
> over a wall, I wasn't sure if this was more structural. For what it's
> worth, the wall's top plate is only a single 2x4, not a doubled header
plate
> like you'd expect if it were load bearing.
>
> b) What, if anything, do I need to do to brace the house temporarilly
during
> this repair? As I have vinyl siding over "build rite", I can get to the
> framing reasonably easy from the outside, but both levels of the inside
are
> finished and would be a major problem to remove anything down to the
framing
> members. The damaged chunk isn't doing anything structurally now, but I
> want to make sure I don't have "the walls tumble down" if I remove a
> slightly bigger one...
>
> Any advice is greatly appreciated. I"d like to (at least start to) tackle
> this project today, so any info I can get ASAP would be wonderful.
>
> -Tim
>
> P.S. By the way, I'm pretty handy with repairs and with a hammer -- just
> never had to tackle anything of this nature before (and hopefully won't
> anytime soon after this!
>
>



Posted by Tim Fischer on June 22, 2005, 1:11 pm
I'm pretty sure the door frame is to blame, compounded with the fact that
there was no proper flashing on the deck ledger, and further compounded by
the fact that when the previous owner resided, they just cut around the old
siding (hardboard crap) and put vinyl around it, -- they seem to have
flashed the majority of it ok but just calked at the seams, and that, I
believe, is what caused this. Although it could have been an older problem
yet -- the siding is less than 5 years old -- can this much damage happen in
5 years?

The wood underneath the door is all crap too. Eventually I want to replace
this door -- for now I'll probably just shore it up and seal it like
crazy...

-Tim

> Check the electric outlet and the left edge of the door frame and sill, it
> is noticeable that your rot is right beneath these two items, sounds like
> they may be leaking water behind the sheathing and onto your joist and top
> plate. Your deck ledger board may be innocent as I don't see damage
further
> along. It is good insurance to eliminate all sources of water intrusion.
>
> > We're building a new deck, and yesterday I removed the old ledger board
> from
> > the old deck and to my horor, discovered that for years, water had been
> > seeping between this board and the rim joist on the house, and the rim
> joist
> > is now badly rotted. In fact, there's about a 12-18" section that is
all
> > but not there now, once I poked many holes through it with my finger...
> >
> > So now I need to know how to go about replacing it, so I can continue on
> > with the deck. I've googled for info without much luck. The little
info
> I
> > found via google assumes that the rim joist is perpendicular to the
floor
> > joists, and that it's right over the foundation. In my case, it's
> parallel
> > to the floor joists (and on the gable end of the house), and since it's
a
> > split-entry house, there is a short (approx 5') wall between this joist
> and
> > the block foundation below.
> >
> > My questions are:
> >
> > a) do I have to replace this joist as a complete span, or can I cut it
out
> > and replace the damaged chunk? The posts dealing with the joists right
> over
> > the foundation imply you can just cut out the damaged section, but since
> I'm
> > over a wall, I wasn't sure if this was more structural. For what it's
> > worth, the wall's top plate is only a single 2x4, not a doubled header
> plate
> > like you'd expect if it were load bearing.
> >
> > b) What, if anything, do I need to do to brace the house temporarilly
> during
> > this repair? As I have vinyl siding over "build rite", I can get to the
> > framing reasonably easy from the outside, but both levels of the inside
> are
> > finished and would be a major problem to remove anything down to the
> framing
> > members. The damaged chunk isn't doing anything structurally now, but I
> > want to make sure I don't have "the walls tumble down" if I remove a
> > slightly bigger one...
> >
> > Any advice is greatly appreciated. I"d like to (at least start to)
tackle
> > this project today, so any info I can get ASAP would be wonderful.
> >
> > -Tim
> >
> > P.S. By the way, I'm pretty handy with repairs and with a hammer --
just
> > never had to tackle anything of this nature before (and hopefully won't
> > anytime soon after this!
> >
> >
>
>



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