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Posted by Tim Fischer on June 22, 2005, 3:10 pm
An alternative plan, which would be much much easier if it were ok, would be
to:
1) bolt a temporary 2x10 above the damaged area, to the left of the patio
board. using 2 1/2" lag screws per stud. The theory would be that even
though some damaged area would be removed under the door, that the header of
the door would carry the weight and as long as this board were secured into
the jack studs, all would be well
2) Rent a single 10 ton jack to ease the load, jacking against this board
3) Cut out the damaged joist and top plate (approx 4-6' section, depending
on how much I cut out)
4) Add significant new supports between concrete foundation and new members
5) Let the jack down and put all the siding back.
(not sure why I skipped step 5 in my last post)
-Tim
> An update -- I removed more of the siding/sheathing, and along with lots
of
> water damage from the damaged area all the way to the foundation, I found
> that the short wall actually **is** a double top plate, so I am now much
> more comfortable in thinking this is a load-bearing wall. It was so
rotted
> out that I thought the second board was a nailer for the inside finishing
> surfaces, but is indeed supposed to be two 2x4 top plates.
>
> One additional complication -- if I were to replace the joist all the way
to
> the corner, this would require removing all siding on BOTH sides of the
> corner, as the corner piece (not sure what it's called) is attached under
> the siding, and this would have to be removed. Yuck.
>
> My current theory is (much of this borrowed from an article in the Feb/Mar
> 2002 Fine Homebuilding, which I found this morning at the library):
>
> 1) bolt a temporary 2x10 above the patio door (after removing some siding)
> using 2 1/2" lag screws per stud.
> 2) Rent a couple of sufficient (10 ton?) jacks to ease the load on the
> members
> 3) Cut out the damaged joist and top plate (approx 4-6' section, depending
> on how much I cut out)
> 4) Add significant new supports between concrete foundation and new
members
> 6) Let the jacks down and put all the siding back.
>
> Does this sound like a reasonable solution? Is there anything special I
> need to do to keep the repaired joists from twisting under the loads (both
> from the house and from the new deck? I only have access from the
> outside...
>
> -Tim
>
> > We're building a new deck, and yesterday I removed the old ledger board
> from
> > the old deck and to my horor, discovered that for years, water had been
> > seeping between this board and the rim joist on the house, and the rim
> joist
> > is now badly rotted. In fact, there's about a 12-18" section that is
all
> > but not there now, once I poked many holes through it with my finger...
> >
> > So now I need to know how to go about replacing it, so I can continue on
> > with the deck. I've googled for info without much luck. The little
info
> I
> > found via google assumes that the rim joist is perpendicular to the
floor
> > joists, and that it's right over the foundation. In my case, it's
> parallel
> > to the floor joists (and on the gable end of the house), and since it's
a
> > split-entry house, there is a short (approx 5') wall between this joist
> and
> > the block foundation below.
> >
> > My questions are:
> >
> > a) do I have to replace this joist as a complete span, or can I cut it
out
> > and replace the damaged chunk? The posts dealing with the joists right
> over
> > the foundation imply you can just cut out the damaged section, but since
> I'm
> > over a wall, I wasn't sure if this was more structural. For what it's
> > worth, the wall's top plate is only a single 2x4, not a doubled header
> plate
> > like you'd expect if it were load bearing.
> >
> > b) What, if anything, do I need to do to brace the house temporarilly
> during
> > this repair? As I have vinyl siding over "build rite", I can get to the
> > framing reasonably easy from the outside, but both levels of the inside
> are
> > finished and would be a major problem to remove anything down to the
> framing
> > members. The damaged chunk isn't doing anything structurally now, but I
> > want to make sure I don't have "the walls tumble down" if I remove a
> > slightly bigger one...
> >
> > Any advice is greatly appreciated. I"d like to (at least start to)
tackle
> > this project today, so any info I can get ASAP would be wonderful.
> >
> > -Tim
> >
> > P.S. By the way, I'm pretty handy with repairs and with a hammer --
just
> > never had to tackle anything of this nature before (and hopefully won't
> > anytime soon after this!
> >
> >
>
>
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