|
Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here.
|
|
|
|
If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by Lloyd E. Sponenburgh on June 22, 2005, 9:59 am
show/hide quoted text
>I have been working over the last few months an area for a 24x32 pole
> barn. I have been tilling with a tractor tiller and scraping with the
> tractor bucket.
> I am wanting to start on it again. It seems about 7 inches off from the
> highest spot to the lowest. The ground is hard now.
> What would be the best way to do this? It is hard for me to eyeball. I
> am using string and a line level.
> I guess what I am asking is should I keep using the tiller or should I
> have dirst brought in and try to build it up to level? Expense is a
> major concern as I have a new baby at home and we are going to have to
> buy another vehicle soon.
You have a couple of options: You can fill the area and compact the earth,
using a level of whatever sort you're comfortable with. Unless drainage is
a real problem, having a pole barn's floor a fraction of an inch off-level
won't hurt anything.
Or, you can build the barn on the stand as-is, and proceed to fill and level
piece-meal as you have money and time. One of the advantages of a pole barn
is that it's an open structure until you decide to close it in. That means
you can do a lot of the work normally done up-front after the structure is
up. Leveling, placing a slab, enclosing bays -- all can be done after the
poles and roof are in place. You can even do it one bay at a time, if
you're so-inclined.
You probably won't be able to accomplish much with the tiller, unless you
loosen up the dirt with it, then MOVE it to the low spots with your bucket
(scrape box, or front-end loader?). Even if one end of the barn ends up
below normal grade, you have the option of contouring the ground outside the
drip line, and providing drainage swales around the barn to move water away.
But still, the best option is to get all of the barn's floor area at or
above grade at the "high" end. On a sloped lot, you'll STILL have to
provide swales at the high end to move water away as it comes down the
slope, toward the barn.
Building a pole barn on an out-of-level lot is a lot easier than it sounds.
You get poles that are longer than you need by at least the greatest height
out of level. You sink them all to the prescribed depth (as discussed at
length in other threads here).
Then you secure your collar beams level on the poles, and cut off the tops
of the poles after the fact. You'd end up doing that anyway, even if the
lot were perfectly level, because it's hard to get all the poles buried so
precisely that all the pole tops are level with one-another. Better to seat
them without paying too much attention to precision depth, but well and
hard - so settlement won't occur unevenly - then trim them all to finished
height.
LLoyd
|
|
Posted by Ernie Post on June 22, 2005, 6:39 pm
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote
show/hide quoted text
> Or, you can build the barn on the stand as-is, and proceed to fill and
level
show/hide quoted text
> piece-meal as you have money and time. One of the advantages of a pole
barn
show/hide quoted text
> is that it's an open structure until you decide to close it in. That
means
show/hide quoted text
> you can do a lot of the work normally done up-front after the structure is
> up. Leveling, placing a slab, enclosing bays -- all can be done after the
> poles and roof are in place. You can even do it one bay at a time, if
> you're so-inclined.
> Building a pole barn on an out-of-level lot is a lot easier than it
sounds.
show/hide quoted text
> You get poles that are longer than you need by at least the greatest
height
show/hide quoted text
> out of level. You sink them all to the prescribed depth (as discussed at
> length in other threads here).
> Then you secure your collar beams level on the poles, and cut off the tops
> of the poles after the fact. You'd end up doing that anyway, even if the
> lot were perfectly level, because it's hard to get all the poles buried so
> precisely that all the pole tops are level with one-another. Better to
seat
show/hide quoted text
> them without paying too much attention to precision depth, but well and
> hard - so settlement won't occur unevenly - then trim them all to finished
> height.
Bingo
|
|
Posted by JohnM on June 22, 2005, 8:31 pm
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
show/hide quoted text
>
>>I have been working over the last few months an area for a 24x32 pole
>>barn. I have been tilling with a tractor tiller and scraping with the
>>tractor bucket.
>>I am wanting to start on it again. It seems about 7 inches off from the
>>highest spot to the lowest. The ground is hard now.
>>What would be the best way to do this? It is hard for me to eyeball. I
>>am using string and a line level.
>>I guess what I am asking is should I keep using the tiller or should I
>>have dirst brought in and try to build it up to level? Expense is a
>>major concern as I have a new baby at home and we are going to have to
>>buy another vehicle soon.
>
>
> You have a couple of options: You can fill the area and compact the earth,
> using a level of whatever sort you're comfortable with. Unless drainage is
> a real problem, having a pole barn's floor a fraction of an inch off-level
> won't hurt anything.
>
> Or, you can build the barn on the stand as-is, and proceed to fill and level
> piece-meal as you have money and time. One of the advantages of a pole barn
> is that it's an open structure until you decide to close it in. That means
> you can do a lot of the work normally done up-front after the structure is
> up. Leveling, placing a slab, enclosing bays -- all can be done after the
> poles and roof are in place. You can even do it one bay at a time, if
> you're so-inclined.
>
> You probably won't be able to accomplish much with the tiller, unless you
> loosen up the dirt with it, then MOVE it to the low spots with your bucket
> (scrape box, or front-end loader?). Even if one end of the barn ends up
> below normal grade, you have the option of contouring the ground outside the
> drip line, and providing drainage swales around the barn to move water away.
> But still, the best option is to get all of the barn's floor area at or
> above grade at the "high" end. On a sloped lot, you'll STILL have to
> provide swales at the high end to move water away as it comes down the
> slope, toward the barn.
>
> Building a pole barn on an out-of-level lot is a lot easier than it sounds.
> You get poles that are longer than you need by at least the greatest height
> out of level. You sink them all to the prescribed depth (as discussed at
> length in other threads here).
>
> Then you secure your collar beams level on the poles, and cut off the tops
> of the poles after the fact. You'd end up doing that anyway, even if the
> lot were perfectly level, because it's hard to get all the poles buried so
> precisely that all the pole tops are level with one-another. Better to seat
> them without paying too much attention to precision depth, but well and
> hard - so settlement won't occur unevenly - then trim them all to finished
> height.
>
> LLoyd
>
>
That's a lot more constructive and useful answer than some..
As has been suggested, you're wasting your time with the string level.
7" over the area you're working with is more than your present tool can
determine- use something worthwhile or just live with what you've got.
Set the posts as you've been advised to in other strings. You say you've
got a new baby- if he (or she) is ever going to be in this barn do you
want it built to some bare minimum that you may not be qualified to
judge? Don't be fucking around with this sort of thing, it'll be a waste
of your time and the time of those here who have tried to help you (and
you'll also be a menace to yourself, your family and anyone else who may
enter your building when the wind is blowing). You'll have a hard time
finding more qualified advice than some of the people here, take their
word for how to do things.. like the water level instead of that lame
string level.
John
|
| Similar Threads | Posted | | Re: Leveling lot for pole barn | June 22, 2005, 10:07 am |
| Re: Leveling lot for pole barn | June 22, 2005, 10:23 am |
| Re: Leveling lot for pole barn | June 22, 2005, 4:29 pm |
| Re: Leveling lot for pole barn | June 22, 2005, 10:37 pm |
| Foundation for a pole barn | July 5, 2006, 10:48 pm |
| Window track needed for pole barn | November 15, 2006, 2:40 pm |
| Help to mount light on metal pole barn | September 28, 2009, 8:59 am |
| estimated materials cost for 30x50x10h pole barn | November 13, 2009, 3:28 pm |
| help on building a small pole barn / small animal shelter | January 19, 2009, 5:28 pm |
| How to run outdoor electrical lines from pole to pole - What's required | April 30, 2007, 10:41 am |
|
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap
> barn. I have been tilling with a tractor tiller and scraping with the
> tractor bucket.
> I am wanting to start on it again. It seems about 7 inches off from the
> highest spot to the lowest. The ground is hard now.
> What would be the best way to do this? It is hard for me to eyeball. I
> am using string and a line level.
> I guess what I am asking is should I keep using the tiller or should I
> have dirst brought in and try to build it up to level? Expense is a
> major concern as I have a new baby at home and we are going to have to
> buy another vehicle soon.