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Re: New Fridge or Add Refrigerant? PaPaPeng 03-19-2007
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Posted by PaPaPeng on March 19, 2007, 10:31 pm


On 19 Mar 2007 18:32:36 -0700, "DRS.Usenet@sengsational.com"

>nlet tube in the zero degree
>range, outlet tube in the 25 degree range, but inlet and outlet are
>both on the top. On the bottom (half-way through the path), the
>temperature was 45 degrees! Temperature of coils under the toe kick
>are 77 degrees, the room is 70 degrees.


There is a cold air transfer duct between your freezer compartment and
your main fridge compartment. That's what the fan is for, to transfer
the cold air. Check the plastic grille covers in both compartments to
satisfy yourself that there is such a duct running inside the fridge's
back wall. This duct can become blocked by a build up of ice. Just
do this. It will save a lot of explanations. Remove all the contents
in the fridge. Let the whole fridge thaw overnight with all the
fridge doors open. Use this opportunity to clean out the insides of
the fridge. Put a towel on the fridge floor to soak up the melt
water/ The fridge should work fine after the big thaw. Put your palm
against the plastic grille outlet. You should feel cold air coming
through.

Posted by DRS.Usenet@sengsational.com on March 20, 2007, 7:54 pm


> On 19 Mar 2007 18:32:36 -0700, "DRS.Use...@sengsational.com"
>
> >nlet tube in the zero degree
> >range, outlet tube in the 25 degree range, but inlet and outlet are
> >both on the top. On the bottom (half-way through the path), the
> >temperature was 45 degrees! Temperature of coils under the toe kick
> >are 77 degrees, the room is 70 degrees.
>
> There is a cold air transfer duct between your freezer compartment and
> your main fridge compartment. That's what the fan is for, to transfer
> the cold air. Check the plastic grille covers in both compartments to
> satisfy yourself that there is such a duct running inside the fridge's
> back wall. This duct can become blocked by a build up of ice. Just
> do this. It will save a lot of explanations. Remove all the contents
> in the fridge. Let the whole fridge thaw overnight with all the
> fridge doors open.

Thanks for the idea. I do agree that the fridge side is connected to
the freezer side, but when I discovered that the bottom 3/4 of the
evaporator had no frost (ie above 32 degrees) after running an hour
(and now 24 hours with the same result), I thought I could dismiss any
discussion of ice build-up anywhere. It can barely get below right on
next to the inlet side of the evaporator coils, much less maintain
less than 32 in the duct. I really want to believe you, since that
would mean no new fridge, but I'm struggling with your logic.



Posted by PaPaPeng on March 20, 2007, 9:17 pm


On 20 Mar 2007 16:54:56 -0700, "DRS.Usenet@sengsational.com"

>I really want to believe you, since that
>would mean no new fridge, but I'm struggling with your logic.


Oops. I forgot the part about switching off the power when you leave
the fridge doors open overnight. This will allow everything to thaw
throughly especially the ice in the transfer duct. Try it anyway as
it is relatively easy to do and costs nothing.

I had this trouble three or four times a year - cold freezer but warm
main compartment that soured my milk. My fridge is fairly empty most
of the time and everything looks OK. The final reason as to the cause
was a fridge door sligfhtly ajar. Sometimes I have a plastic bag of
something on the fridge door shelf. When I closed the door this bag
flops against the gallon milk container and pushed the door slightly
ajar but not enough to be noticeable. There was a constant supply of
warm moist room air into the fridge compartment. The compressor works
overtime and frost builds up in the transfer duct. The thermocouple
never opens (=compressor switch OFF) because the compartment never
gets to the desired 2 to 5 deg C for the main compartment. The
compressor seems to be running on very short cycles, etc. Anyway I
make sure that nothing in the fridge shelves sticks out just enough to
keep the door even slightly ajar. I haven't had any trouble since.

Posted by Stormin Mormon on March 21, 2007, 1:09 am


Thaw...... what?

The guy said he took the back of the freezer apart, and there's
no frost back there. No frost on 3/4 of the coils.

Do you read and comprehend American language?

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.

: On 20 Mar 2007 16:54:56 -0700, "DRS.Usenet@sengsational.com"
:
: >I really want to believe you, since that
: >would mean no new fridge, but I'm struggling with your logic.
:
:
: Oops. I forgot the part about switching off the power when you
leave
: the fridge doors open overnight. This will allow everything to
thaw
: throughly especially the ice in the transfer duct. Try it
anyway as
: it is relatively easy to do and costs nothing.
:
: I had this trouble three or four times a year - cold freezer
but warm
: main compartment that soured my milk. My fridge is fairly
empty most
: of the time and everything looks OK. The final reason as to
the cause
: was a fridge door sligfhtly ajar. Sometimes I have a plastic
bag of
: something on the fridge door shelf. When I closed the door
this bag
: flops against the gallon milk container and pushed the door
slightly
: ajar but not enough to be noticeable. There was a constant
supply of
: warm moist room air into the fridge compartment. The
compressor works
: overtime and frost builds up in the transfer duct. The
thermocouple
: never opens (=compressor switch OFF) because the compartment
never
: gets to the desired 2 to 5 deg C for the main compartment. The
: compressor seems to be running on very short cycles, etc.
Anyway I
: make sure that nothing in the fridge shelves sticks out just
enough to
: keep the door even slightly ajar. I haven't had any trouble
since.



Posted by PaPaPeng on March 21, 2007, 2:34 am


On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 01:09:32 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

>Thaw...... what?
>
>The guy said he took the back of the freezer apart, and there's
>no frost back there. No frost on 3/4 of the coils.
>
>Do you read and comprehend American language?
>
>--

I doubt the OP is looking at the same part I am describing. The cold
air transfer duct is between the wall insulation of the fridge and
there is no way of looking into the duct to see anything let alone a
frost build up. All one can see are the two openings behind the
removeable plastic grilles, one in the freezer compartment and one in
the main compartment. Similarly you cannot see the frost buildup on
the outside of the freezer compartment cuz there's a plastic cover you
can't remove. That big thaw is a simple and cost free way of
eliminating the possibility of ice blockage as the cause of the
problem. If it fixes the problem the OP doesn't have to buy a new
fridge. If not he isn't out of money and he can save himslef a lot of
head scratching whether to recharge the refrigerant or buy a new
fridge. A fridge from 1996 should last another 20 years trouble free.
Methinks you are into scamming people to buy new fridges at the
slightest problem.

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