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Re: Romex in SHORT run of conduit?

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Re: Romex in SHORT run of conduit? Chris Lewis 06-13-2005
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Posted by Chris Lewis on June 13, 2005, 10:18 am
> Calvin,

> > If it "just fits" you may be overstuffing the conduit.

> Yep, my "Code Check Electrical" book says I can have a maximum of two 8
> gauge conductors in 1/2" PVC conduit (for individual wires). But I'll have
> four wires (8/3 w/ground) with the cable jacket. It fits into the conduit
> easy enough, but I would clearly be exceeding the fill requirements for
> conduit.

> My main concern was whether it would be acceptable for such a straight
> short run (3 feet). Doesn't seem like it would be all that different than
> drilling a hole through a bunch of studs to snake the romex through.
> Especially since it's a vertical section that's open at the top and bottom.

Under Canadian codes (like Calvin. Inspected/approved too), I've run 14/2,
14/3, 12/3 and 10/2 through 1/2" PVC for 5-7 foot "drops". Putting in
outlets, switches and a 30A cube heater outlet into my workshop, the
conduit is on the wall surface (not buried), and "sleeved" from the
ceiling to the boxes.

The inspector was fine with it.

That said, 8/3 sounds a trifle too far.

> > All you have to do is put a fitting on the end of the conduit that
> > would be used to attach it to a junction box, and get a
> > female-to-female pipe coupling to couple the threaded end of the
> > fitting to a threaded cable clamp. Works very nicely.

> That was my plan if I have to resort to stripping the romex jacket back.
> The conduit ends just above a foundation wall, so there isn't really room
> to install a junction box there, and I can't really install bends in the
> conduit with it being overfilled already.

Don't run the romex jacket back for running thru the conduit. If you're
going to go sheath-less, use proper unjacketed wire, with a J-box on
either end.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

Posted by HerHusband on June 13, 2005, 2:56 pm
Chris,

> Under Canadian codes (like Calvin. Inspected/approved too), I've run
> 14/2, 14/3, 12/3 and 10/2 through 1/2" PVC for 5-7 foot "drops".
> Putting in outlets, switches and a 30A cube heater outlet into my
> workshop, the conduit is on the wall surface (not buried), and
> "sleeved" from the ceiling to the boxes.
> The inspector was fine with it.
> That said, 8/3 sounds a trifle too far.

With usual hindsight, I wish I had installed larger conduit at the time.
But, it was a last minute idea I had before installing the sheetrock and
1/2" is just what I had on hand. I didn't figure I'd ever be adding any big
loads in the future. Funny what a difference a year makes... :)

I haven't checked the electrical supply stores, but if I opt to snake the
cable through the wall, my next concern would be the cable clamp at the
electrical box. A normal clamp fits in the hole and a nut gets tightened on
the backside. But, I'll only have access to the inside of the electrical
box. Do they make clamps that can be tightened from one side only? I've
never paid attention because I've never needed one before.

Anthony

Posted by Chris Lewis on June 13, 2005, 5:57 pm
> I haven't checked the electrical supply stores, but if I opt to snake the
> cable through the wall, my next concern would be the cable clamp at the
> electrical box. A normal clamp fits in the hole and a nut gets tightened on
> the backside. But, I'll only have access to the inside of the electrical
> box. Do they make clamps that can be tightened from one side only? I've
> never paid attention because I've never needed one before.

There are plastic "snap-in" cable clamps that might help, but you'd
still need to get to the back of the boxes.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

Posted by HerHusband on June 13, 2005, 6:03 pm
>> I haven't checked the electrical supply stores, but if I opt to snake
>> the cable through the wall, my next concern would be the cable clamp
>> at the electrical box. A normal clamp fits in the hole and a nut gets
>> tightened on the backside. But, I'll only have access to the inside
>> of the electrical box. Do they make clamps that can be tightened from
>> one side only? I've never paid attention because I've never needed
>> one before.
>
> There are plastic "snap-in" cable clamps that might help, but you'd
> still need to get to the back of the boxes.

What's the normal procedure then for adding a cable to an existing
electrical panel? Surely there's a way to protect and secure the incoming
cable other than tearing into the wall just to tighten a nut on the
backside?

Anthony

Posted by Duane Bozarth on June 13, 2005, 6:39 pm
HerHusband wrote:
>
> >> I haven't checked the electrical supply stores, but if I opt to snake
> >> the cable through the wall, my next concern would be the cable clamp
> >> at the electrical box. A normal clamp fits in the hole and a nut gets
> >> tightened on the backside. But, I'll only have access to the inside
> >> of the electrical box. Do they make clamps that can be tightened from
> >> one side only? I've never paid attention because I've never needed
> >> one before.
> >
> > There are plastic "snap-in" cable clamps that might help, but you'd
> > still need to get to the back of the boxes.
>
> What's the normal procedure then for adding a cable to an existing
> electrical panel? Surely there's a way to protect and secure the incoming
> cable other than tearing into the wall just to tighten a nut on the
> backside?
>
> Anthony

You got to get enough access to get th cable into the box, anyway...

But you can certainly tighten a standard connector from the inside, but
can't tighten the clamp portion itself on the cable unless can get
access to the outside...

Can't envision what you're after here...

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