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Posted by dakota2112 on May 2, 2008, 12:43 pm
>
> > The thing that really confuses me though is that the relatively
> > large PVC drain pipe enters the box inbetween the valves, and exits
> > through the floor co-planar with the pipes but NOT inbetween them.
>
> Is the P-trap for the washer drain visible in the basement? If not,
> it is in the wall, which explains why the pipe jogs.
>
> > I'm not sure how I would even go about removing the existing valves.
> > If they are threaded on, I won't be able to remove them because the
> > pipe flexes torsionally and I can't access the pipe itself to prevent
> > that.
>
> I believe they are threaded on, but someone else with more experience
> should confirm that. If so, you would need to open up the wall below
> the box so that you can get an opposing wrench on the connection.
>
> Cheers, Wayne
duh, absolutely - the drain trap is inside the wall! That explains
the offset. Thanks for pointing out the obvious which I totally
overlooked :)
I think the valves must be threaded on, as there's no way a torch
could've gotten in there without melting the plastic, and it doesn't
look like there's clearance to insert the vertical pipe with a valve
already soldered on the end. Opening up the wall to get in there and
hold the pipes is what I had planned if all else fails. I'm just not
looking forward to doing a voluntary drywall repair - but this whole
thing is to avoid a catastrophic leak in the first place, so...
As for the existing valves, they are not seized completely, but they
were a bear to turn the last time I shut them off which was several
years ago. That's why I'd rather piggyback or replace completely.
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