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Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here.
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Posted by Wayne Whitney on March 27, 2008, 1:26 pm
> I need to replace the sill plate in my house
How much of the sill plate? What is above the affected areas? Worst
case, you could open up the wall every six feet and drill through the
first story bottom plate to get enough working height. You could open
up the wall on the inside or the outside. Since the exterior
sheathing is presumably attached to the sill plate you are replacing,
you'll be doing some exterior work anyway.
I'm generally a fan of doing work with permits, but the inspector
seems inflexible in not allowing a UFP to be used with grouted
concrete block. Robert Allison's suggestion is a good one--if you can
find an engineer to write a letter signing off on it, then the
inspector should allow the UFPs.
Cheers, Wayne
PS. It is just possible to do the work in the space available,
although it would be a bear and probably easier to just open up the
wall cavity from the exterior. But here goes:
Let's say you're going to use 1/2" threaded rod and epoxy. You need
7" embeddment, plus 1.5" for the sill, plus say 1" for the plate
washer and nut. So you need to put in a 9.5" piece of threaded rod.
You've got 2x8 joists, which are 7.25" tall. You can do the concrete
work while the sill plate is out, which gives 8.75" total clearance
above the block. You can make a little clearance trench between the
face of the block and the hole location that is 1.25" deep. This
could be done by drilling in from the face with a 3/4" bit centered
1"-1.25" down from the top, and then knocking out the material above
the hole. This gives you 10" of working clearance.
To drill the 7" deep hole, there are right angle attachments for
hammer drills, such as Hilti's TE-AC angle chuck or Bosch's 1618580000
right angle attachment. Hilti says their chuck is 5" tall, and on my
SDS rotary hammer, the bit engages the chuck by 1.25". So if you add
a 6" bit, your overall height is 9.75", less than the 10" of working
clearance. That will allow you to drill until the chuck hits the top
of the block, which is 4.75" deep.
Then switch to an 8" bit--put the bit in the hole, it will stick up
3.25" above the block, leaving 5.50" of clearance, enough to fit the
right angle attachment above it and then chuck up the bit. This will
get you to 6.75" deep. Call it close enough, or repeat with a 9" bit.
Now comes some geometric ballet. You have to do all the holes for a
given section of the mud sill, and then predrill holes in the mud sill
for the threaded rod. Then you have to take all your pieces of rod
for that section of the mudsill, insert the rod through the mud sill
holes, and suspend them at just the right height by using a nut. They
should stick out 1" below the mud sill and 7" above the mud sill.
Next fill all the holes in the concrete 2/3 full with epoxy, and then
slide the entire mudsill with anchor bolts assembly in under the floor
joists. Once it is in position, remove the nuts on the threaded rod
so you can slide the rod down into the epoxy with a twisting motion,
until you bottom out. When you are done, if the epoxy hasn't filled
the clearance trench already, use a little non-shrink grout to patch
it up.
Whew!
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Posted by Limp Arbor on March 27, 2008, 1:46 pm
>
> > I need to replace the sill plate in my house
>
> How much of the sill plate?
About 30' of the 40' length of the house.
>=A0What is above the affected areas? =A0
Subfloor and hardwood floors.
> Since the exterior sheathing is presumably attached to the sill plate you =
are replacing,
> you'll be doing some exterior work anyway.
I hope not, brick veneer on the front of the house.
>
> PS. =A0It is just possible to do the work in the space available,
> although it would be a bear and probably easier to just open up the
> wall cavity from the exterior. =A0But here goes:
>
< snip>
I thought about the multiple length drill bits to get the hole depth
but...
Even if I could get the right length anchor in the concrete block and
drill the sill plate in the right spots I would have to lift the
*entire* house at least 3 1/2" to set the sill plate on the bolts. 2"
of the bolt sticking up and 1 1/2" clearance for the new sill to pass
under the floor joists and band/end joists to go on the bolts.
I need something that can be installed after the fact.
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Posted by Wayne Whitney on March 27, 2008, 3:04 pm
>
>> How much of the sill plate?
>
> About 30' of the 40' length of the house.
So you are looking at two pieces of mudsill, with 7 anchor bolts.
[E.g. with a 20' piece and a 10' piece, with anchors at 1', 7', 13',
19', 21', 25', and 29'.]
>> What is above the affected areas?
>
> Subfloor and hardwood floors.
I meant what rooms. If you have access to the interior walls (i.e. no
kitchen cabinets in the way), you could open up 7 stud cavities and do
the work from above, down through the bottom plate and subfloor.
>> Since the exterior sheathing is presumably attached to the sill
>> plate you are replacing, you'll be doing some exterior work anyway.
>
> I hope not, brick veneer on the front of the house.
There is probably sheathing behind the brick veneer, and at the bottom
is probably nailed to the mudsill. So among the various nails you'll
have to cut or work around are the sheathing nails. Once you get the
old mudsill out, if you have blocking or a rim joist, I'm not sure how
you'll get into the 1.5" high cavity to cut the sheathing nails. If
there's no blocking or rim joist, then there should be no problem.
BTW, have you resolved whatever problem led to the deterioration of
the mudsill?
> Even if I could get the right length anchor in the concrete block
> and drill the sill plate in the right spots I would have to lift the
> *entire* house at least 3 1/2" to set the sill plate on the bolts.
> 2" of the bolt sticking up and 1 1/2" clearance for the new sill to
> pass under the floor joists and band/end joists to go on the bolts.
No, you need to read my previous post more closely. Once you have the
floor joists independently supported and the mudsill and nailes
removed, you make all your holes in the concrete. Then you predrill
your new mudsill, suspend the bolts in the mudsill holes, and fill the
concrete holes with epoxy. Then you can insert the _entire_
mudsill-bolt assembly underneath the floor joists, and slide the bolts
down into the epoxy-filled holes.
> I need something that can be installed after the fact.
Hopefully you can find the right structural engineer to sign off on
the UFPs. That's probably easier than the geometric contortions
previously described.
Cheers, Wayne
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Posted by on March 27, 2008, 3:31 pm
On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 10:46:39 -0700 (PDT), Limp Arbor
>>
>> > I need to replace the sill plate in my house
>>
>> How much of the sill plate?
>
>About 30' of the 40' length of the house.
>
>> What is above the affected areas?
>
>Subfloor and hardwood floors.
>
>
>> Since the exterior sheathing is presumably attached to the sill plate you are
replacing,
>> you'll be doing some exterior work anyway.
>
>I hope not, brick veneer on the front of the house.
>
>>
>> PS. It is just possible to do the work in the space available,
>> although it would be a bear and probably easier to just open up the
>> wall cavity from the exterior. But here goes:
>>
>< snip>
>
>I thought about the multiple length drill bits to get the hole depth
>but...
>
>Even if I could get the right length anchor in the concrete block and
>drill the sill plate in the right spots I would have to lift the
>*entire* house at least 3 1/2" to set the sill plate on the bolts. 2"
>of the bolt sticking up and 1 1/2" clearance for the new sill to pass
>under the floor joists and band/end joists to go on the bolts.
>
>I need something that can be installed after the fact.
I know this sounds strange but can you cut into the cores of the block
from below, drill out the hole and nut and bolt "all thread" in there?
Then you could pour the blocks back solid if you wanted to stiffen
them up again. I figured out 60# of concrete does 4 cells.
Here in Florida, grouted cells are the code. I found a big garden
trowel works to fill the cells on a retro like this. TapCon a 12"
plywood piece across the gap, leaving a few inches open at the top to
get the trowel in and fill it up. Tap on the board to consoladate the
mud. When you get to the top, pack the last part with stiffer mud so
it won't run out and cover it. This is time consuming but it sounds
easier than lifting the house
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