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Refinishing Hardwood Estimate johnnymo 09-26-2006
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Posted by johnnymo on September 26, 2006, 4:15 pm

Thanks Kiwanda. Yea, this quote included sanding and refinishing the
kitchen, where I found hardwoods underneath the vinyl flooring. I have
removed the vinyl and backing to the best of my ability. That was not
very fun and kind of expensive for the right adhesive remover.

The "Brazilian" (floor guy) said that they can get the rest of with the
sander. I will check on the oil vs water and which he was planning on
using.

Thanks for the suggestions.


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Posted by jd karnes on September 26, 2006, 5:23 pm
dadiOH wrote:
> Todd H. wrote:
>
>
>>I'd totally recommend using stain. Some folks omit stain to go but
>>it's a huge mistake, IMO because the stain so nicely brings out the
>>wood grain.
>
>
> So does oil. So does any oil based clear finish. Stain and the whole
> thing needs sanding to bare wood to re-do it in the future.
>
depends on taste
i had a bedroom floor(white oak) redone with water base and no stain. i
did not want it to yellow as oil does. to me i looks great.

Posted by on September 29, 2006, 9:36 am

johnnymo wrote:
> > $2300 doesn't sound horrible. Is that for water based or oil based
> > poly? What brand?
>
> Thanks Todd. What is the difference between using water vs oil based
> poly? Does one hold up better than the other or look better? He just
> told me to pick out the color and let him know. I was told that 80% of
> the time, people choose "Early American" which is MinWax color stain,
> so I am not sure what poly. he was planning on using?

I wouldn't use any stain, it will make it very dark and will get darker
every year, just a poly coat will darken it greatly and make it grainy,
but that is a personal preference, I liked gloss coat, it's the most
durable (like the gloss kitchen paints), easy to clean and always look
great, but again that's personal preference some people think it looks
too plastic. I also have waxed hardware floors in the bedrooms, but
much prefer the gloss for looks and durability.

If I had to do it over again I may bleach them first (scandinavian
look) followed by poly coat, a friend of mine did that and it looked
spectacular


Posted by Kiwanda on September 26, 2006, 1:53 pm
Todd H. wrote:
>
> > Hello - I just bought a new house (new to me) and want to get the hard
> > wood floors redone in them. They are in decent shape, but in the high
> > traffic areas, the polyurethane has worn off and you can pretty much
> > see the dull wood. My house is about a 1000 square feet and I need
> > about 800 sq. feet refinished. I have Red Oak 3/4" thick by 2 1/4" wide
> > planks.
>
> I did mine myself, once. Once.
>
> I wouldn't do it again as it was a complete labor intensive pain in
> the ass. But I sorta knew that going in and felt it was something I
> needed to try once. Once. :-)

I did three rooms in our house about two years ago and would happily do
it again if needed. These rooms required much more than refinishing;
two had multiple layers of carpet glued/stapled to them, and one
hallway had vinyl glued down. The floors were laid in 1958 and not
badly worn, but getting all that glue up caused some damage. Not
counting the removal work, it took basically one full day to strip and
sand all the floors down to bare, smooth wood, and another day
(intermittant) to put down three coats of water-based poly. They look
great and the whole project cost me about $100, for perhaps 400 sq feet
of red oak. I didn't bother to get a bid on it so don't know what it
would have cost locally.

For the $2,300 the OP was quoted I could install AND finish entirely
new oak floors in most of my house.

-kiwanda


Posted by on September 29, 2006, 9:40 am

Kiwanda wrote:

>
> For the $2,300 the OP was quoted I could install AND finish entirely
> new oak floors in most of my house.
>
well, $2300 plus a week of vacation to burn :), that's a heck of alot
of work unless you have a lot of slave labor (kids, friends)


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