If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by Mt4t on June 2, 2007, 12:13 pm
I have a cedar wall that was finished with a brushed-on coat of uncut
linseed oil. When I tried to refresh a part of the wall with a second
coat, maybe 10 years after the first, the result left some shiny,
sticky patches. Now, several years later still, I'd like advice on
1) eliminating the shiny-sticky bits, and 2) refreshing a linseed
oiled surface without creating more such patches.
|
 
| |
Posted by Joe on June 2, 2007, 5:47 pm
> I have a cedar wall that was finished with a brushed-on coat of uncut
> linseed oil. When I tried to refresh a part of the wall with a second
> coat, maybe 10 years after the first, the result left some shiny,
> sticky patches. Now, several years later still, I'd like advice on
> 1) eliminating the shiny-sticky bits, and 2) refreshing a linseed
> oiled surface without creating more such patches.
Shiny-sticky bits are where the linseed oil has stayed on the surface
as the rest of the application soaked in. There is little you can do
if the wood has such differing absorption qualities. Chemical
stripping of the entire wall might produce a more uniform substrate
for another finish. Perhaps you should consider that and refinish with
something more durable and attractive. Linseed oil has little merit
except for old walnut shotgun stocks and antiques.
Just a guess here, but you could try a mild heat application (heat gun
on low) to encourage the linseed oil to soften and penetrate the wood
better and then quickly wipe away the excess surface coating. HTH
Joe
|
|
Posted by BlackHawk96 on June 2, 2007, 11:53 pm
wrote:
>I have a cedar wall that was finished with a brushed-on coat of uncut
>linseed oil. When I tried to refresh a part of the wall with a second
>coat, maybe 10 years after the first, the result left some shiny,
>sticky patches. Now, several years later still, I'd like advice on
>1) eliminating the shiny-sticky bits, and 2) refreshing a linseed
>oiled surface without creating more such patches.
BOILED linseed oil, once applied, will slowly oxidize overnight, so
youll have to remove the excess with rags before it starts to harden.
You have to be VERY CAREFUL how you dispose of those rags as they will
spontaneously ignite and burn your house down! That is exactly what
happened to Windsor Castle!
Raw linseed oil is not for finishing wood. If you used THAT, you might
get lucky if the boiled linseed oil may dissolve it, but that's a long
shot. Good luck.
BlackHawk
|
|
Posted by Abe on June 3, 2007, 2:00 am
>I have a cedar wall that was finished with a brushed-on coat of uncut
>linseed oil. When I tried to refresh a part of the wall with a second
>coat, maybe 10 years after the first, the result left some shiny,
>sticky patches. Now, several years later still, I'd like advice on
>1) eliminating the shiny-sticky bits, and 2) refreshing a linseed
>oiled surface without creating more such patches.
You can use a rag moist with appropriate solvent (turpentine or 99%
isopropyl alcohol) and gently rub the shiny spots, turning the rag
often, to remove the excess oil and even out the finish.
Technique is important. You have to develop a feel for it.
|
|
Posted by dpb on June 3, 2007, 10:20 am
> >I have a cedar wall that was finished with a brushed-on coat of uncut
> >linseed oil. When I tried to refresh a part of the wall with a second
> >coat, maybe 10 years after the first, the result left some shiny,
> >sticky patches. Now, several years later still, I'd like advice on
> >1) eliminating the shiny-sticky bits, and 2) refreshing a linseed
> >oiled surface without creating more such patches.
>
> You can use a rag moist with appropriate solvent (turpentine or 99%
> isopropyl alcohol) and gently rub the shiny spots, turning the rag
> often, to remove the excess oil and even out the finish.
>
> Technique is important. You have to develop a feel for it.
After that, if you want an oiled finish, use a prepared rubbing oil
finish, not linseed oil alone. If you have a piece of the material,
use it for a trial first, if not I highly recommend a small spot in an
inconspicuous location to ensure the look is what you want.
I personally like the Minwax Original (in the red can), but there are
a zillion others as well and everybody has their favorite(s) or their
own brew...
--
|
| Similar Threads | Posted | | Re: refresh look of cedar siding | June 21, 2005, 3:19 am |
| Re: refresh look of cedar siding | June 21, 2005, 9:18 am |
| Re: refresh look of cedar siding | June 24, 2005, 9:07 am |
| Ranch Refresh 1 | October 19, 2008, 1:21 pm |
| Ranch Refresh 2 | October 19, 2008, 1:26 pm |
| Ranch Refresh 3 | October 19, 2008, 1:33 pm |
| Ceiling sand-painted - refresh/repaint? | March 2, 2006, 11:19 am |
| Question about Cedar | August 13, 2005, 8:37 am |
| CEDAR SIDING | March 18, 2006, 9:02 am |
| cedar and sealants | April 7, 2006, 3:30 pm |
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap