Refrigerator efficiency test conditions?

On Sun 05 Oct 2008 06:33:51p, mike told us...

I buy green and operate conservatively whenever I find it practical *and* convenient. Convenience is more important to me than saving a few bucks here and there.

On Sun 05 Oct 2008 07:00:13p, PanHandler told us...

I have no idea and could care less. It would be extremely uncomfortable and impractical to use that room, regardless of the OP's arguments.

On Sun 05 Oct 2008 07:15:53p, mike told us...

As are you.

I was not intentionally trying to "belittle" you. I just find it incredible that anyone would go to such lengths.

In case you don't realize it, this is an open forum, for either positive or negative commentary.

My new fridge says it costs $43/year to run. Call it T$ What test conditions lead to that number?

If I let it run and never open the door, it will cost me X$ to run.

So, the annual cost of opening the door is Y$ = T$ - X$.

What's the magnitude of Y$? And what opening rate does it assume?

If it's a significant percentage of the total cost, it might make sense to address the opening problem.

95% of my accesses are for stuff stored on the door. The inside is mostly empty and rarely accessed. Maybe curtain the inside of the box? OR fill the empty space with empty boxes so less cold air spills out when the door opens. It's the same concept as putting open-topped vessels in your toilet tank to reduce the water/flush.

Sounds like it's probably way into diminishing returns, but every little bit helps save the planet.

Any idea the ratio of Y$ to T$?

Thanks, mike

If you dont open it it will cost less than T, if you use it minimaly it should cost T, how they test is published somewhere, try www.energystar= .gov I get less than T with easy use. That 43$ figure is unlikely the amount that you pay per kwh. What do they say 0.08kwh, im at 0.13

A few more things play a part in exactly how much it will cost to run a refrigerator, including the temp of the room and how well air flows around the coils.

An empty refrig will cost more to run than a full one, pretty much because of what you say - the cold air flows out when opened, but also because air, particularly the dry air in a frost-free frig, changes temp quickly. Best would be to fill it with FULL bottle of water or something that holds temp better.

The ratio is independent of the $/kwh. That's why I asked it that way.

I suppose that people who add their two-cents worth of derision without adding actual useful relevant content consider their time to be extremely valuable. If only they'd just share the calculations that led them to the conclusion of "insignificant", we could all go home informed and happy. But alas, no joy here today.

My electricity consumption is 60% of what it was two weeks ago. I see no reason to stop there.

mike

And how efficient do you suppose *that* process was?

You're entitled to live the way you want. But there's no cause to belittle me for trying harder. If you have no helpful input...you know what to do...well... I guess you don't...

I've never found a serious test of this myth on the web. Some serious energy conservation sites (eg Oregon's) don't mention it.

With more exposed cold surface inside, room air will flow faster through the fridge when the door is open, with more sensible heat gain and condensation, which raises energy consumption.

Nick

At best, a $23.95 new Danfoss freezer thermostat ($0.00 if scrounged from a dead freezer) that turns on the bulb in the fridge when the freezer temp rises to 15 F might cut the $51 annual yellow-tag cost to $3.60.

Or less, with more complex controls.

Nick

Whats your problem. I tested my Energy Star Sears frige several times with a Kill-A-Watt meter, the results I post are what I found in actual use in a kitchen that goes to 85f. Do a test and post something other than an opinion.

How could putting in an electric heater in a refrigerator make it "more effecent" No dont answer that, It just wont make it more "efficent" My Sears 19.5 resessed-covered with foam is more efficent than Danfos ratings, Danfoss was-is not up to modern standards on Compressors, [at least 5 years ago they were not].

I read where someone had 3 coffee cans labeled: "Nails", "Bent Nails", and "Slightly Bent Nails".

Don Young

On Mon 06 Oct 2008 03:50:32a, ransley told us...

What's the point? Were you going to return it if you didn't like the results? Both my refrigerator and upright freezer are Energy Star compliant. My kitchen is kept at a constant 75°F. Nothing's likely to change how much energy they use, except possibly how often and for how long I open the door. That, too, is not likely to change since I open the doors when I need to and for no longer than necessary.

You gotta a problem with that? Tough!

My grandmother had a cigar-box labeled "Bits of string too short to be of any use."

On Mon 06 Oct 2008 05:04:52a, HeyBub told us...

LOL!

I dont think you understood my original post, I believe in, and have all energy star apliances and was trying to point out energy star ratings can be met by consumers, even beaten.

On Mon 06 Oct 2008 07:44:36a, ransley told us...

Perhaps I didn't. Thanks for clarifying. I'm all for buying higher efficiency and energy conserving appliances for the home. However, I put convenience above *extraordinary* measures to lower my energy rate. I do not have high electric bills.