|
Posted by New & Improved - N/F John on December 12, 2007, 10:46 pm
My house had old asphalt siding, two layers of roofing, box gutters that
leaked and drained the way, old windows. If it had to be done over,
remember to insulate the exterior walls. Getting rid of the box gutters was
a good decision because the water can be put into the street. Large
commercial grade seamless gutters give a balance in place of box gutters.
Add insulation, but knob and tube creates a problem. Good luck. Good
market.
> Hello all -
>
> I've got an old 2-story house, built in 1911. The outside
> has been unchanged for 30 years now, and it needs EVERYthing
> done over: roof, windows, siding, all of it. It doesn't have
> to be fancy, just functional. I plan to live here 2-3 more
> years, and then sell for what I can get (I'm in a
> neighborhood that is in a mild state of decline).
>
> The roof has either 3 or 4 layers of shingles on it already.
> That all has to come off - back down to the original
> sheathing - and start over.
>
> Lots of loose shingles on the sidewalls, so I will probably
> have to have the existing siding (old wood shingles or
> something else they were using back in 1911) stripped off,
> too, back down to the sheathing, and built back up.
>
> Not sure what to do about the windows. I don't care for
> vinyl "replacement" windows, I'd prefer either full
> replacements (real wood with aluminum cladding on the
> outside), or something similar.
>
> I've been checking out something the Marvin windows company
> offers called "Tilt Pac". Not a replacement "insert", this
> is a double-hung replacement kit that replaces your old
> sashes with new wood/thermal glass, and has jamb liners that
> once installed, allow the new sashes to tilt inward.
>
> The end result is a "reconstructed" traditional window that
> uses the old casings.
>
> I was wondering if anyone out there has tried these, and can
> offer opinions on them.
>
> They aren't cheap. They cost about the same as Marvin's
> "Integrity" double-hung FULL window assemblies. The sales
> guy said there might be extra installation cost involved
> with full windows due to trim removal/reinstallation on the
> outside, however.
>
> Some questions:
>
> - When doing a complete exterior remodel, would it be best
> to start "from the top down" (the roof first)? I'd kind of
> like to take this in steps so I go broke a little at a time,
> not all at once. :)
>
> - With the roof done, should the windows be taken care of
> _before_ the siding is removed/replaced? I'm thinking by
> doing windows first (especially if it is going to involve
> complete replacements that require trim work on the
> outside), the siding job will go more smoothly as the last step.
>
> Speaking of siding, I don't care for cheap vinyl "strip
> siding". I've seen some newer-design products by Certainteed
> and Nailite that use a heavier plastic (polypropylene) with
> molded designs that mimic individually-installed shingles
> (and do a very good job at it, too). Anyone tried this
> stuff? Opinions?
>
> Thanks,
> - John
|