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Posted by BobK207 on April 24, 2008, 11:06 pm
> Bill wrote:
> > Before I go and hire an architect, get building permit, etc. I would lik=
e to
> > get a ballpark on what this might look like...
>
> > I have a bearing wall (2x4 studs) which is 13 ft. long in my living room=
> > which I am thinking of tearing out and replacing with a beam. (2 story
> > house - living room first floor.)
>
> > But looking at "span tables", this is looking like it would need a solid=
> > wood beam like 4 x 10? Well a 10" beam would come down a bit far and not=
> > look so good...
>
> > So how about a steel I-beam? I looked at span tables for I-beams and it
> > looks like a "W6x9" would do the trick? This would come down less and lo=
ok
> > better.
>
> > Anyway I don't know a thing about steel I-beams. Does "W6x9" mean 6 inch=
es
> > wide and 9 inches high?
>
> No, W6x9 means that it is 6 lbs per foot and nine inches tall.
>
> > Is there a smaller I-beam which would work for this span?
>
> An engineered wood beam multiplied may do it, but you would have
> to check with the span tables for them.
>
> > And I have 2x4 walls that this I-beam would connect to on each side. Wou=
ld
> > the I-beam just rest on say 4 x 6 wood posts? Or have holes drilled in t=
he
> > bottom of the I-beam and lag screw it to the wood posts?
>
> Typically, a metal beam on a wood post would have clips welded
> onto it to fasten to the support posts. =A0There are various ways
> of attachment.
>
> > And how would I fasten the joists resting on the top of the I-beam to th=
e
> > I -beam?
>
> This would again entail clips either welded or bolted to the beam
> and fastened to the joists.
>
> As other posters have pointed out, you must make sure to transfer
> the load to your foundation appropriately. =A0It does not sound
> like you have the experience to judge all the possible
> configurations for doing this properly. =A0An engineer can well
> make this project doable and keep within a budget for doing so.
>
> When I do things like this on my own, I always overengineer,
> because I cannot properly do the calculations, so I overbuild to
> compensate. =A0The engineer can save you money by specifying
> enough, without overdoing it. =A0The cost of the engineer can often
> be saved by the savings from less material and less work. =A0YMMV.
>
> As far as what it will cost, if you do the legwork (make accurate
> drawings, take a lot of photos of both the foundation under the
> support posts and the floor above and the situation itself) then
> the engineer can design a system for you without having to do all
> of that himself. =A0Design costs; =A0probably 300 to 500 bucks if it
> is simple. =A0Build costs; =A0depends, but if it is simple and the
> foundation can support everything as it is, then 1,000 bucks or so.
>
> Well worth the piece of mind to hire the engineer. =A0He sees
> things that you can't.
>
> --
> Robert Allison
> Rimshot, Inc.
> Georgetown, TX
> > Anyway I don't know a thing about steel I-beams. Does "W6x9" mean 6 inch=
es
> > wide and 9 inches high?
>
> No, W6x9 means that it is 6 lbs per foot and nine inches tall.
Unless someone else has fielded this
W6x9 means a wide flange beam nominally 6" deep & weighing 9 lbs/ft
cheers
Bob
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